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NEWS: E8 Ground Up at the Buttermilk

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 Michael Ryan 29 Nov 2008
Bishop, California: The Buttermilk highball boulder-route Evilution (V12, Font 8A+ or in UK route speak E8) has received its first ground up ascent from Coloradan, Carlo Traversi. Previous ascents of this impressive line made use of a rope to check out and practice the lofty finishing slab.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=11&year=2008#n45476
 andi turner 29 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Cool, looks well scary.

How on earth do you get down? Wouldn't it be a strange querk if we lost our E grades and other countries adopted them?
 Stuart S 29 Nov 2008
In reply to andi turner:

Watched a guy working Evilution to the lip when we were there in April - he was taking some pretty big falls from near the top of the steep section and the full Evilution crux is higher still. Doing the whole thing ground-up is very impressive.

There's a 5.8 slab and arete on the opposite side of the boulder that you have to downclimb.

 whistler 30 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Why giving it E grade!?!? It's clearly a boulder problem and has been established as such !?!? Or is it to wind up some debates again? I bet people would be pretty upset if The visiting americans reported Meshuga as V10 or whatever V grade it would get.
Pete
 JSA 30 Nov 2008
In reply to whistler:

if you look at Mr Jorgesons blog, you'll see that he's given one of his highballs E8 in the video section, maybe it's simply trying to give comparissons so that more people can understand overseas grades?
 flaneur 30 Nov 2008
In reply to Mick:

Cool looking route/highball. Is that E8 on the End of the Affair is E6 scale? It looks like a conservative estimate to me.


In reply to whistler:

Route or boulder problem?: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=1820

The most informative grade is a combination of E for the whole experience and a proper technical grade (V, Font, sport). We're getting there.



I'd be interested to hear what V-grades team america would give for Meshuga and the other routes they have done.

Less contentiously (?), they are in a great position to compare the relative difficulties of bunch of classic hard routes having done so many in such a short time. How about a graded list?!
 Chris F 01 Dec 2008
In reply to whistler:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> Why giving it E grade!?!? It's clearly a boulder problem and has been established as such !?!?

The point is that it wasn't established as such - all previous ascents were worked on rope before boudering - effectively a headpoint.





OP Michael Ryan 01 Dec 2008
In reply to Chris F:

...........and giving them E-grades is fun!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Well done that man but I'm very suprided he does 'up' problems!
 whistler 05 Dec 2008
In reply to Chris F:
Not sure about this one Chris: It's been given V12, and if you watch the video (which is pretty cool by the way
youtube.com/watch?v=osAxv40srjw&
you'll agree that it hardly looks like a headpoint. falling of the top over and over again. Locally - AFAIK Tim used a rope when working on Optimus Prime - is it a headpoint ?
Who cares... Good job!
OP Michael Ryan 05 Dec 2008
In reply to whistler:

Yes, that's a headpoint.

Sharma originally got to the lip first, then Kehl's did the full monty after tr practice of the top slab section - the bottom steep section you have to do ground up as it is so steep.

And now it has been done ground up in its entirety.

 James Oswald 05 Dec 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
How technical does the climbing get on the slab?
OP Michael Ryan 05 Dec 2008
In reply to james oswald:

I'm sure you can work that out by watching the video - hard at the lip and just above - rest - then an easy but very high romp to the top.
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