UKC

North West Conditions

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 StuDoig 29 Dec 2008
Heyho All,
I'm off to Ullapool over Hogmanay and wondering if anyone has been out and about climbing around there (Bein Dearg, An Teallach, Fannichs etc) and what conditions were like? My guess is that there won't be much or any snow still lying in general though some easy/mid grade/deeper/drainage line gullies might be holding with the nice low temps were getting but any first hand info would be appreciated!

Cheers,

Stuart
 DougG 29 Dec 2008
In reply to StuDoig:

I was in Ullapool on Boxing Day.

You're right, there's no snow at all at lower levels, but I guess there could be some hanging on in the gullies. An Teallach and Beinn Dearg both looked fairly bare however.
OP StuDoig 29 Dec 2008
In reply to DougG:
Cheers Doug! as I feared though :O(

Sooooo, anyone with a postive report to cheer me up??

Stu
 Ean T 29 Dec 2008
The weather is absolutely amazing and the bouldering,sport climbing and hillwalking conditions are superb.
Removed User 29 Dec 2008
In reply to StuDoig:

Get out and do all the tops of Quinag. That'll make up for any dissappointment in the climbing dept.
OP StuDoig 29 Dec 2008
In reply to Ean T and Bobt:

Aye, pleanty else to do so still excited to be getting up there again - rock shoes will be coming as well as the winter boots and axes so will no doubt get some climbing of some sort done over the trip even if theres no snow/Ice. Loads of stuff I've still to do up there so certainly won't be bored - esp with the great looking weather forecast! Suliven would be another cracker on a nice crisp and clear winters day I recon.
Still have to last being in work tomorrow though.

Stuart

 DougG 29 Dec 2008
In reply to StuDoig:

Am heading to Wester Ross again first thing tomorrow morning. From what I've seen and heard (via Flickr) they've just had 3 exceptionally cold and clear days - as cold as it's been in 10 yrs, some people are saying.

Forecast to remain that way for a good few days yet, too.
Slugain Howff 29 Dec 2008
In reply to DougG:

Heading up to Torridon tomorrow Doug - might see you on the road.
In reply to Slugain Howff: Any idea what conditions are like in Torridon area. Have you heard of any routes being done?
Removed User 30 Dec 2008
In reply to StuDoig:

Suilven is great but a long walk in, most people drop off a car in Lochinver and drive around to the other side then walk to Lochinver taking in Suilven on the way (although I've done it as an in and back).

From memory it's about 18-20km so be prepared for some night navigation if you do it in the winter.
OP StuDoig 30 Dec 2008
In reply to Removed User:
Aye its a fair trek, but worth it I recon if conditions are likely to be clear - finishing in the Dark with a long trudge back to the car would seem to be on par with the last few trips out too
Cheers for the advice though!

With the cold temps I do still have a vauge hope that some of the deeper gullies (Penguin etc) or higher ice lines on Beinn Dearg might be holding enough to climb on - only one way to find out I suppose!

Driving up to Ullapool tomorrow (sounds like half of UKC will be too!) so hopefully it'll be light enough to see the surrounding hills as I pass.

Cheers All

Stu
 Scomuir 30 Dec 2008
In reply to StuDoig:
I'm heading to Durness tomorrow night from Aberdeen after work - hopefully arriving while it's still this year! I am hoping (probably with far too much optimism) that there will be some ice to be found on the hills over the next few days, and not on the road tomorrow night!
Slugain Howff 30 Dec 2008
In reply to Scomuir:

Little to nothing in condition in Torridon - Triple Buttress and Liathach looking a bit bare today.
Geoffrey Michaels 30 Dec 2008
In reply to Slugain Howff:

I was on Quinag on Saturday and Beinn Mhòr Coigach yesterday and no winter kit is required. World class hill days though.
Slugain Howff 30 Dec 2008
In reply to Donald M:

Scotland was looking stunning today!
wcdave 30 Dec 2008
In reply to Slugain Howff: It was indeed! What a day to be on the hills.
Geoffrey Michaels 30 Dec 2008
In reply to Slugain Howff:

Agreed. I wouldnt wish to be anywhere else in these conditions.

 DougG 31 Dec 2008
In reply to Slugain Howff and wcdave and Donald M:

I was on Cul Mor yesterday. What a day to be in the hills indeed - just incredible.
Slugain Howff 31 Dec 2008
In reply to DougG:

We were on Beinn Eighe - windless and totally cloudless. Iceless too but we'll not dwell on that. Haven't seen frost like it for years though on the drive over.
Minus 15 in Grantown.
 Toby S 31 Dec 2008
In reply to Slugain Howff:

You are all utter, utter, utter, utter gits.

Toby - stuck in an office in foggy Inverness.
 Scomuir 31 Dec 2008
In reply to Slugain Howff:
Being hopeful for some ice was maybe just that. Had wondered if there would be any water ice tucked away somewhere. I guess will just need to go and find out. If nothing else, I haven't been up Foinaven yet, so a good walk would be fine consolation.
 Erik B 31 Dec 2008
In reply to Scomuir: there looks to be some good water ice climbing on meall horn near foinaven, enjoy ya swine, my office vista still hasnt changed
 Erik B 31 Dec 2008
In reply to Scomuir: come to think of it, theres some big waterfalls up the NW, wonder if they will be doable yet eg the one in glencoul (cant remember name), the one at loch maree, falls of glomach, maybe even the alladale pillar? theres probably some unclimbed ones hidden away up those parts too, get exploring!
 DougG 31 Dec 2008
In reply to Slugain Howff:

Aye the frost was astonishing. Minus 12 at Loch Droma first thing! The trees were incredible, absolutely hanging with frost.

The roads were fine but the freezing fog around Inverness first thing was an absolute nightmare (sorry Toby...).
 Scomuir 31 Dec 2008
In reply to Erik B:
I had noticed that in the guidebook. Figured taking a wander in there as well I think there was a cliff mentioned in the guide (don't have it to hand) that described ice routes on Foinaven formed due to seepage - Coire Duil? I am guessing with such temperatures, there's a chance...

If it's any consolation, most of the party are already in the area, and I'm still stuck in the office, watching the world go by on Union Street
 DougG 31 Dec 2008
In reply to Scomuir:

If the icefalls aren't formed now, then they probably never will be.

There was virtually no fresh water moving anywhere up there yesterday. Loch Glascarnoch, Loch Droma both frozen solid. Quite dramatic the change from last Friday morning, when it was still fairly mild.
 Scomuir 31 Dec 2008
In reply to DougG:
Stop it, stop it - you're building my hopes up

Ironically, I lent some of my ice screws to mates who are in Norway, so will need to choose a route accordingly. Typical.
 Erik B 31 Dec 2008
In reply to wcdave&doug: gonny no dae that?!
 Toby S 31 Dec 2008
In reply to Erik B:

I think I'll be jumping in the car tomorrow morning and heading North. Who's with me?!
wcdave 31 Dec 2008
 DougG 31 Dec 2008
In reply to wcdave:

Very nice!

I reckon Cul Beag would have been even better than Cul Mor yesterday, there was an inversion over Ben More Coigach. (It often seems to attract its own weather, that hill.)
 James Edwards 31 Dec 2008
In reply to DougG:
I was in my local glen Strathconon ice climbing today, have a look at
http://www.highmountaineering.com/
I'm hoping to be out tommorow but the best made plans and all that...
James e
Geoffrey Michaels 01 Jan 2009
In reply to DougG:

Three pictures in my gallery now of recent conditions.

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