UKC

Okay. At frustration bourne from an absence of posts of this ilk here we go....
Is anyone aware (and obviously willing to share!) information, beta, rumours, lies, fabrications ... what have you, as to localities of new routing potentials in Scotland. Where these mystery crags lie, size, shape, dimentions and/or the presence or lack thereof for new routes. Due to the fractal nature of bits of rock I suppose every crag indeed has some new routing potential. However to specify slightly, routes of grades between scot 1 and 7 welcomed.
(Having said that, if a side debate of real hard routes wants to start then I'm not going to be dictatorial in imposing this rule, nor would I want to!)

You get the drift (pun not intended but left for prosterity).

End Note:
When I say winter ... and scotland, these terms are respectivly interchangeable with summer and anywhere in the UK. Just thought I'd clarify that (or complicate!)


Cheers
H

In reply to heallan:

I have put up several new routes in the far north of Scotland, mainly on the north Sutherland coast between Portskerra and Strathy Point and from VS to E2. Some ar in the new Highlands north guide. The potential there is still huge.

I have put up a few new routes on the East Caithness coast which also still has huge potential but my mate Raymond Wallace has been putting up a prolific number in recent years so you need to do your homework.

In reply to heallan:

Did a new winter route on Ben Hope a number of years ago and there is potential there if you get the conditions but the proximity to the sea makes this haphazard.

Ben Loyal also has potential if conditions are right.

The whole of Foinaven could provide both summer and winter new routing and it is a remote and beautiful place.

In reply to Removed User:

There was a moratorium on new route descriptions in the far north which (I think) has now been lifted so don't be surprised if someone has been there before!

In reply to heallan:

What most people (in my experience) do is-

a) go exploring, or looking through photos in books, maps etc. This may involve logging off the internet for long periods.
b) note potential if you find any (a black book can be used for this if you like).
c) keep schtum.

In general new routers tend to expend a little more effort than simply sticking cheeky posts up on internet forums

In reply to Wee Davie:

Nice Davie, nice !


Oh and to the OP, think there's a few winter lines on the Ben still available

In reply to heallan: Is it possible to find information on new routes that have been climbed since the newest guidebook on the area? I presume they're all sent to Andy Nisbett, but are they publically available somewhere without bothering him with an email? Perhaps the SMC journals?

Thanks

In reply to douglas: Google http://www.smc.org.uk/NewClimbs.htm

In reply to Chris F: Super. Thanks for that.

In reply to heallan:


You want to new-route? Here's your perfect partner. Can you keep up with him?

http://www.davemacleod.com/home.htm

Cheers for the general point of view.
Past adventures in search of new routes have involved much choss and death-block potential, to use the literal sence of the term, so a whole unclimbed crag would be somewhat heavenly! If not spoiling us a little...

In reply to heallan: Google earth..i've found some great bivvy spots with it...no new crags yet though!!

In reply to heallan:

this one is only a hundred or so metres from the road:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=8841

In reply to heallan:

Well keep looking then. Much of the adventure is in the journey.

In reply to heallan:

*Look for an area you're interested in going to.
*Get the local guides and geological map and any photos, satellite images and local info you can find.
*Mark established areas on maps and look for similar features where there's nothing and or suggested possibilities (local info, photos from books etc).
*Make a plan of action that will allow you to explore without risking totally wasted days.
*Go out there and get frustrated.

Coastlines often yeild new rock since they're hard to explore/view. Local knowledge will help. To avoid the loose death-blocks of which you speak simply keep walking or put in some time cleaning first.

jk

In reply to Wee Davie: Quite so...shanks pony and the wee black book.

In reply to heallan: Plenty of new routes out there, you just need to go and explore. I admire yer tactic mind!

In reply to wcdave: Sometimes it pays to be a wee bitty cheeky.

In reply to SonyaD:

My sentiment entirely!

In reply to heallan: Go hillwalking in interesting areas, memorise the guidebook, note possibilities, check them out, don't let anyone else know about them til after you've done.

In reply to heallan: does anyone know of any new unclimbed routes on stanage...about hs-vs for me to climb?i've got the name ready and everything..i'm going to call it 'never going to happen'

In reply to heallan:

Don't tell anyone but there is room for more routes between Bakerloo Line and Benylin at Arrochar. You can see how much ice there is on the cliff from the road.

In reply to Colin Moody:

Photo from the road.

http://web.me.com/colinmoody/Site/Arrochar.html#18

In reply to heallan:

Yes I do, but I've still got some hopes of getting to it!

In reply to heallan: Like people say, it's quite easy wae a bit of legwork. We put up 3 new wee routes all about 13m on Saturday, only severe and hard severe though on a coastal crag nearish to Torridon. Get yourself a map and go exploring mate! Almost always worth the effort, just stay off the sandstone coastal stuff in the East Neuk (nae fun!).
jd