UKC

Ben Alder

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 benbers 23 Mar 2009
Anyone been past Ben Alder recently?

Planning a trip for this weekend but I don't know if the recent temperatures have had any effects on conditions?

 fishy1 23 Mar 2009
In reply to benbers: I'm planning a trip there too this weekend, staying at culra. But I don't know current conditions.
 Mark Bull 23 Mar 2009
In reply to benbers:

As of yesterday snow cover was patchy and soft in the Cairngorms: could see Ben Alder from the A9 driving back down and it looked similar there. Here's a photo of Coire an t-Sneachda from the SAIS blog from yesterday: http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_ibt42o4eAcQ/ScY8KfxQOWI/AAAAAAAAA9E/fTjWj51STno/s...

However, this week looks set to see much colder temperatures and fresh snowfall, so it's likely to be much more wintery by next weekend. Are you planning to go hillwalking or climbing?
OP benbers 23 Mar 2009
In reply to Mark Bull:

Thanks! we're planning on staying in Culra for a few days and hopefully go climbing if the conditions are good ; if not we'll hillwalk probably.
 Mark Bull 23 Mar 2009
In reply to benbers:

Based on the current forecasts, I'd say it will probably be worth humping the climbing gear in! Hope you have a good trip....
OP benbers 23 Mar 2009
In reply to Mark Bull:

cheers!
 fishy1 25 Mar 2009
In reply to benbers: Anyone know where you can find a photo of ben alder with routes marked on it?

I thought ben alder was kind of cairngorms, but it's not, I've found out it's in the Ben Nevis guidebook, and I don't want to buy a whole new guidebook for one climb.
 Neil Anderson 26 Mar 2009
In reply to fishy1:

Be radical - go an explore without a guide book, as in the old days!

Alderwand which is the classic Ben alder climb goes striaght up in the big 'alpine' face, can't really miss it. the face will go pretty much anywhere grade 3 I recall

enjoy - hope you get conditions you want.
 Andy Nisbet 26 Mar 2009
In reply to Neil Anderson:
>
> Alderwand which is the classic Ben alder climb goes striaght up in the big 'alpine' face, can't really miss it. the face will go pretty much anywhere grade 3 I recall
>

Can't really miss it? Hardly. There are some 15 routes on the face, which is several hundred metres long and the line isn't at all obvious except in lean but icy conditions.

 ScraggyGoat 26 Mar 2009
In reply to benbers:

You can't miss the cliff............as Andy says the route may be another matter, and more importantly you may want to miss the cornice.

So while the cliff does 'go' having a view to the top before setting out might prevent a long and complicated retreat.

The first day I tried the cloud was down and I decided to climb some shortish easy bits of ice on the lower bluffs. When I went back on Sunday with no cloud I was rather glad I'd waited as I'd have been dooing a wandering line no-where near the right spot. The lower part of the cliff right of ?Alder Gully is very uniform in the mirk.
 fishy1 26 Mar 2009
In reply to Neil Anderson:
> (In reply to fishy1)
>
> Be radical - go an explore without a guide book, as in the old days!


That's what I did last time I was there, in the dark. But, I thought it would be nice to do some easy routes that aren't first ascents for a change.
Removed User 26 Mar 2009
In reply to benbers:

Looked over at it from the Loch Ossian Munros last Friday and it was pretty bare on the Eastern and Southern flanks. Other club members were on Beinn Eibhin and their photos don't suggest much snow on the Northern flanks either. Unless something dramatic happens you may well be hillwalking.

Last Friday was t-shirt weather on the tops.
 fishy1 26 Mar 2009
In reply to Removed User: The radio says it's snowing in aviemore at the moment, can only be good. And if conditions are crap, well, we can dry tool or do icy bouldering.
 Andy Nisbet 26 Mar 2009
In reply to fishy1:

Lashing rain actually, but I'm sure it's snowing on the hill
 fishy1 26 Mar 2009
In reply to Andy Nisbet: Ah ok. I'm now getting a hugely optimistic idea of skiing in from dalwhinnie to culra tomorrow night. Crosses fingers.
 Andy Nisbet 26 Mar 2009
In reply to fishy1:
> (In reply to Andy Nisbet) Ah ok. I'm now getting a hugely optimistic idea of skiing in from dalwhinnie to culra tomorrow night. Crosses fingers.

The sun is out now

 fishy1 26 Mar 2009
In reply to Andy Nisbet: I think I will phone up someone in dalwhinnie and find out tomorrow, unless someone else has been passing and knows what it's like, aviemore and dalwhinnie can be very different conditions wise.
OP benbers 27 Mar 2009
In reply to benbers:

Thanks for everyones' replies; we've decided to go to the northern corries instead, as it seems the wiser option with the weather this weekend/next week!

Hope everyone has a great time in the hills!
 Neil Anderson 28 Mar 2009
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

Apologies for the mis-direction; I recalled the face been fairly obvious, but it is awhile since I have been.

When you say 15 odd routes is that across Garbh Choire as a whole or just on Garbh Choire Beag? I thought there were only 1/2 dozen routes on the face? If not where can I find the info. on them - Have I missed them in a recent SMC journals. - keen to keep upto date as lots of new route potential out there still imho.

thanks in advance.
 fishy1 30 Mar 2009
In reply to benbers: Didn't get to garbh coire beag. I got quite unwell walking from culra to ben alder on saturday morning, couldn't walk more than 100m at a time, felt terrible, partener carried all the gear in, what a hero. And I ran out of toilet paper on the walk, bad times indeed, had to use snow only, must have done 10 or so, began to wonder in the back of my mind if it could possibly be appendicitis. Walking was feeling really bad indeed, so we abandoned the walk in.

But we wanted to get something done, we figured lets do something new on the side of the long leachas ridge. Got up close and tried one line, but it was way too hard and unprotected and I knew it was not good at all, big falls did not appeal, as I felt sensitive in my stomach to say the least. So basically climbed up an easy gully for a bit, a mix of frozen and unfrozen turf, then got onto a nice ledge, I was feeling a bit better, onto a fantastic next pitch, a lovely crack line for the start, got first piece of gear in, a hex in a camming horizontal crack, slipped, rock shears off, gear is out, belayer dodges the large rock whizzing towards him beautifully, I catch myself with a frantic hook. Climb on, further up the crack, difficult but with good rests, then a traverse to the left, before dynoing around an arete onto a piece of frozen turf. From then it was steep turf to the top, fun, but a bit easy. Don't Die of Diarrhea, IV 4. Fortunately the climbing scared the shit out of me, don't know what I'd have done had I needed to go while roped up on lead. The descent down the long leachas was quite edgy, several times large sections slid below us, and there were some very large snowballs, some more than 6ft in diametre, merrily bouncing their way down the slope.

Might write it up in the UKC logbook if I can find the time.
 Jamie B 30 Mar 2009
In reply to fishy1:

If you're dyno-ing for turf its probably harder than IV,4!
 Andy Nisbet 30 Mar 2009
In reply to Neil Anderson:

Maybe it's just a dozen routes. There are some in the SMC Journals, like 3 in SMCJ 2006. End of the Ben Nevis section (same guidebook).
 Andy Nisbet 30 Mar 2009
In reply to fishy1:

Do send me a description for the SMC Journal. Would you give it another name. Unpleasant though it was for you, we wouldn't want it to be unpleasant for future parties too!
 petestack 30 Mar 2009
In reply to fishy1:
> And I ran out of toilet paper on the walk

Hope you burned what you used or packed it all out again! (But doubt you did...)

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