UKC

hi, am planning on doing main wall in the pass tomorrow cause its been on my list to do for ages. i saw a that there was an accident on it on sat... this put me off a bit... was wondering what it is like? run out? im a confident HS leader and have done a few VS too.

thanks adam

In reply to adam06: IMHO it feels like a VS when you're on it, but afterwards you'll say "bog standard HS". I'd recommend you do it with someone also competent to lead, and take care with route finding. Great route, loads of stars, top end of grade.

In reply to adam06:

Hi Adam,

It's fair at HS, not strenuous, or run out.

It does have exposure by the bucket load though.

Just make sure you take care on the first pitch as there's a little loose rock, and ensure whoever belays for the first pitch is anchored to the crag properly.

Go enjoy, it's definitely worth it's three stars!

Luv Barra! xx ©™

In reply to adam06:

Yes, feels serious and big - proper climbing, but it is HS. Dont let the accident put you off. Brilliant route.

cool, cheers for the replys. just lookin in the guide an it shows that the second pitch goes very right then very left. i only have a single rope... has anyone done it on single? another belay?

In reply to adam06:

It's a BIG route. Not easy to escape from (It's the easiest route on the cliff). The crux is way out there (exposed but safe) moving off a wobbly spike. I found a hard move on the second pitch too. Route finding can be tricky on the first couple of pitches.

It's not multi-pitch like the other Pass routes. It's much bigger. Don't underestimate it and you should be ok.

That's the negatives. On the plus side it's well protected (or ought to be), has some great moves and takes in some fantastic situations.

If you are a confident HS leader it'll probably test you. If you are solid multi-pitch climbers then you should be ok.

Hope you enjoy it. Should be a cracking day out!

All the best

Phil

In reply to adam06:

That would be fun on a single rope!

I guess you could climb the 2nd pitch on a doubled single as it's only a short pitch (from memory) but you'd be pushing it on the crux pitch which is long, goes around a corner and is out of sight of the belay.

Maybe get another rope?

Phil

In reply to adam06:

Yes - no problem.

In reply to adam06:

Hi Adam,

I'd have to agree with Phil, try and acquire a second rope...

Having only done it on Saturday it's quite fresh in my mind, and I'm glad I wasn't doing it on a single.

It would be possible to do the route on a single, but could create problems...

Doubling your single for the second pitch would work (if it's a 60m), but only having one rope will severly limit your options for the whole route.

Luv Barra! xx ©™

In reply to Barra: ok, cheers ill try an borrow one. exposure shouldnt be too much of a problem...lived in wales for 3 years an have spent more time on multi-pitch than single. i was mostly worried that the belays would be crap on a runout pitch after hearing about the accident.

In reply to adam06:

Don't remember anything runout at all. All belays were solid too from memory.

Have a great day!

Phil

In reply to adam06:

Yes. Many years ago, had never climbed on dou8ble ropes. Don't recall any rope problems - just remember being terrified on one of the pitches in particular! I'd recommend doubles if you can though - providing you're used to climbing with doubles, otherwise it's just one more thing to get wrong.

A magnificent route, one of the very best I've done. I'd agree with whoever it was said it feels like VS when you're on it, but thinking back you realise it's 'only' HS.

In reply to adam06: Single rope, plenty of long extenders, should not be a problem.

In reply to adam06:

Did the route on a 50m single and don't recall any problems

In reply to adam06:

It's fine, as long as you're a steady leader. I'd advise a lid for this one.

In reply to adam06:
I did it last year and thought it was about right at HS. As I was feeling lazy I took a fairly skeletal rack and planned to do the whole route in guide tennies (which I'd worn leading Nea a few months before and didn't have any problems). It was fairly wet in places with some small sections of loose rock and I ended up putting on a pair of 'proper rockshoes' for the crux as it did feel a bit interesting. It is an amazing route and I really enjoyed it, but if I did it again I'd actually take more than a couple of nuts and a few slings and not forget my head torch. The walk down is a total bastard in the dark, although at this time of year you'd have to screw up pretty badly for that to happen.

In reply to adam06:
In good conditions definitely HS, pitch 2 feels more like VS if it is wet, but still doable, there is decent pro at the crux.
Route finding can be a challenge in lower piches, we had some hairy off route scrambling before we correctly identified the start.
Fantastic exposure but steady climbing on pitches 4 & 5, an absolute must-do route!

In reply to adam06:

Adam

You picked a good day for it. We were ahead of you. I think you were just reaching the belay at the end of the 4th pitch when we got back to our bags (was one of you wearing orange).

I hope you enjoyed it as much as we did.

Mike

In reply to adam06:

I always thought it a steady mid grade HS. More than that I'd say its one of the HS climbs where big boots and rucksacks don't seem to add two grades. It is exposed and the ramp is scary when damp.

Mike: yea we where just behind the group with the orange. cheers for the advise all. felt fine for HS and i recon i would have been fine on one rope... but took two. most people probs find it hard for the grade cause its wet. we did it on a dry run tho and only the chimney was a bit damp

In reply to Phil West:

It's a long time since I did it, but I remember that there was one belay I wouldn't have wanted to have tested. Sorry, can't remember which pitch for sure but maybe top of p. 2.