UKC

Lino Lacedelli has died aged 83, on November 20. He and Achille Compagnoni were the first team to summit K2 (8,611m) back in 1954.
Lacedelli's ascent was accompanied by controversy as he and fellow climber Walter Bonatti argued and accused each other of underhand tricks. Bonatti didn't make the...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=50505

In reply to UKC News: Start of the end of the great mountaneering generation

In reply to UKC News:

Lacedelli and Compagnoni left Bonatti and Madhi to die in a forced bivouac high on K2, and spent 50 years lying about the ascent. Only research by Robert Marshall finally gave conclusive photographic evidence of the disgrace and forced the pair of them to finally vindicate Bonatti's account.

Lacedelli also lied about making the second ascent of Bonatti's East Face of the Grand Capucin route. The conclusive evidence of this fabrication was provided by Paragot and Berardini who repeated the route and (rather like Donini et al on Cerro Torre finding Maestri's account to be a fabrication) found no evidence of the pitons Lacedelli had claimed to have placed, and far, far harder climbing than anything described by him.

In reply to UKC News:

Lino Lacedelli was featured in today's BBC Radio 4 obituary programme, Last Word.

The programme is available for listen again now at: http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b006qpmv

It will also be rebroadcast at 20:30 on 29 November.

Contributors include Alan Hinkes and Reinhold Messner (briefly).

David