UKC

Tor Quarry - Agden

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 Alex Thompson 09 Dec 2009
Been reading an old 2nd series Rock Climbs in the Peak book which mentions Tor Quarry near Low Bradfield, the place is no longer listed on UKC or current guidebooks, but their does still appear to be a quarry on the OS maps.

Anyone remember this place or know anything more about the place?
 Al Evans 09 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson: We looked at it when writing the Agden guide, at that time we didn't think it was worthwhile, I think Len Millsom and the Parnassus did some routes there.
Having said which, times move on and in the light of the bouldering and micro routes era it might be worth another look.
 popebenedictus 09 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex:

Was in the 89 Stanage guide

8 routes D-HVS, permission refused by owners Thomas Wragg and Sons
Also says its too close to the farm for climbing to go unnoticed.

 Al Evans 09 Dec 2009
In reply to popebenedictus:
> (In reply to Alex)
> Also says its too close to the farm for climbing to go unnoticed.

But that only means they bothered in 1989!
 Simon Caldwell 09 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson:
It got quite a glowing write-up from Len Millsom in the 1950s guide.
The latest Infinite and Beyond book mentions it in passing (at the end of the Wharncliffe section) as having the possibility of some dirty routes, as if it had never been climbed on before. On that basis I've got it pencilled in for a visit sometime
 Al Evans 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Toreador: I think if you do visit, a complete new guidebook is probably called for with a doff of the cap to Lenny and the Lads, climbing has changed a lot since the 1950's.
OP Alex Thompson 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Al Evans:
Yes it is very close to the farm (as the map & aerial view shows):
http://www.multimap.com/s/j3g6dr6U

The Gibraltar Rocks are also mentioned in the guidebook as having short scrambles.
 Simon Caldwell 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson:
> Yes it is very close to the farm (as the map & aerial view shows):

They also show that it's on Open Access land
OP Alex Thompson 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Toreador:
Yeah, didn't quite take that in... Strange, I wonder if is is owned by the the water company?
OP Alex Thompson 10 Dec 2009
In reply to Toreador:
13 routes (D-HVS) described in the '64 guidebook and it mentions potential for more. Funny that a supposedly "obscure" place would get mentioned in early guidebooks then completely drop off the radar.
Any reference to the place in the 3rd & 4th series guidebooks?
 Al Evans 11 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson:

"Moving along to the right for some 30ft, one passes an inspiring arete, and a thin crack, which await ascents, and so to"

Get to it.
OP Alex Thompson 11 Dec 2009
In reply to Al Evans:
My thoughts exactly!
Anonymous 11 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson: sorry to post as anonymous but no idea why can't log in

its just a few miles from where i live and must be 10yrs since walked along to have a look as it was in the Green Stanage Guide and it has pretty much disappeared under grass and don;t recall anything worth looking at, didn't see any last great problems just choss - a little further west (towards strines) on the same contour and accessable from the adjacent footpath is a 20ft x 20ft outcrop (by a wall that comes down from the road) with some ok bouldering plus some other poor bouldering
Brittania Rocks marked on the OS map (other side of road) looks ok buthas limited potential is very green and has poor landings - landowner lives in adjacent house and is not keen and the conflict isn't worth what is there

better off walking up to Back Tor
OP Alex Thompson 13 Dec 2009
In reply to Anonymous: Thanks for the update, presumed it had fallen into disuse, but certainly wasn't looking for last great problems (have you see my profile??), just interested to note that climbing was once recorded at the place.
 Ropeboy 13 Dec 2009
In reply to Alex Thompson:

I popped into the farm one afternoon about 5/6 years ago (work related) and noticed the crag. Meant to check it out further but never did, the same with Gibralter rocks on the other side of the road. That looked more promising as a micro venue, but quite green and as said above it's very close to the house adjacent and if he's not keen on climbers it's probably not worth it
To be fair Agden is nearby and given the number of better crags in the area not sure if it's worth the hassle. Have you checked out Ladybower Quarry?

J

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