UKC

PRODUCT NEWS: The Scarpa Instinct Slipper...with VIDEO

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 UKC Gear 25 Feb 2010
[Scarpa Instincts, 2 kb]As the name suggests, the new Instinct Slipper inspires the climber to follow their instinct, allowing fast and precise foot placements in any direction thanks to its "straight forward", down turned last shape.

he instant comfort is amazing, still getting incredible performance in any climbing situation.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2525

In reply to UKC Gear: for £90 odd. forget it, i'll stay with 5.10 thankyou. what is it with italien (sp?) boot makers thinking they can get away with charging this much.
 TobyA 25 Feb 2010
In reply to portlandclimber:
> what is it with italien (sp?) boot makers thinking they can get away with charging this much.

It's Italian, with an "a", and have you not noticed that the pound has dropped somewhat against the Euro in recent years? You can blame international money markets and British GDP to debt ratio before you blame some Italian shoe makers!

 Michael Ryan 25 Feb 2010
In reply to portlandclimber:

You need to swat up on your prices. Do a search for Five Ten, Scarpa, Sportiva, Evolv, Red Chili and the suggested retail prices. All top notch rock shoes

Also Scarpa are hand made in Italy.

It's not pretty showing your ignorance in public. Think before you run your lips.

Cheers,

Mick

 John Gillott 25 Feb 2010
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

What does hand made in Italy mean out of interest? I'm picturing little old men and women in a cottage outside Bolzano, but I'm sure that can't be right. And what's the advantage of them being 'hand made'? Are they better for it?
 Michael Ryan 25 Feb 2010
In reply to John Gillott:

"Im picturing little old men and women in a cottage outside Bolzano"... ... yes nearly

All rock shoes are hand made.
 Reach>Talent 25 Feb 2010
In reply to John Gillott:
If they weren't hand made you'd be able to get a reliable idea of fit and you could buy them ove the internet in confidence. It is all a conspiracy to get you to go into gear shops, which always leads to additional purchases.
 Michael Ryan 25 Feb 2010
In reply to Reach>Talent:

Hi

If you want a proper fit, and most people do, the best place is a climbing shop.

There's no conspiracy.

Mick
 Reach>Talent 25 Feb 2010
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
I really must learn that sarcasm doesn't work on internet forums.
 hexcentric 25 Feb 2010
In reply to Reach>Talent: It's not forums it doesn't work on, it's Americans (or Ex Pats living there too long).

 Michael Ryan 25 Feb 2010
In reply to Reach>Talent:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> I really must learn that sarcasm doesn't work on internet forums.

Yip. I always do a double bluff and take everything at face value. Works well for me.

 hexcentric 25 Feb 2010
In reply to portlandclimber:
> for £90 odd. forget it, i'll stay with 5.10 thankyou. what is it with italien (sp?) boot makers thinking they can get away with charging this much.

Yeah, I suppose that is a whole £5 more than the 5.10 Teams and Anasazi whites......
In reply to hexcentric: that and la sportiva charging over £100 for several of their pairs of shoes. also Mick- £90 is the most ive seen slippers sold for- even Sportivas version are cheaper. feel free not to run your mouth in future mick.
 simes303 25 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC Gear:
> The instant comfort is amazing, still getting incredible performance in any climbing situation.
>

Even better than Ninjas?


 Michael Ryan 25 Feb 2010
In reply to portlandclimber:

> also Mick- £90 is the most ive seen slippers sold for-

If you are only gazing at your navel I'm not surprised.
 bouldery bits 25 Feb 2010
In reply to UKC Gear:

Is it similar to the the old Vortex? If so, I may HAVE to buy a pair. I hated the Stix (cos it was a rubbish shape for me) But my Old Vortex's were amazing (until they died in an unfortunate camp fire based accident)

Thanks,

Oli
 galpinos 25 Feb 2010
In reply to portlandclimber:
> (In reply to hexcentric) that and la sportiva charging over £100 for several of their pairs of shoes. also Mick- £90 is the most ive seen slippers sold for- even Sportivas version are cheaper. feel free not to run your mouth in future mick.

Slippers are not exaclty cheap to make. Having chatted with a friend connected to Scarpa, he said the cost of manufacture of a slipper compare to a lace-up or velcro is pretty similar. The problem the manufacturer has is that public (i.e. tight arsed climbers) have the perception that slippers should be cheap.

(I've halfway through my second pair of Stix and have a third pair still boxed in the cupboard so I'm ok!)
In reply to galpinos: yeah i should have got a pair while i could- i saw macleod in a pair of these new ones a while ago and wondered if they were an update of the stix. they look good put im not sure the extra 15 quid that i dont have. thanks for the info on them though.
 IainWhitehouse 26 Feb 2010
In reply to portlandclimber:
> (In reply to galpinos) ...a pair of these new ones a while ago and wondered if they were an update of the stix.

Quite the reverse. They are intended to be softer, more indoor specific and more accessible to the masses (=more commercial) but Scarpa made no bones of the fact that the Instinct line wasn't expected to perform at the same level as the Mago/Booster/Stix.

Of course, the usual caveat applies that a shoe only performs as well as it suits your foot and climbing style. If you're a 'flap your foot around instinctively' sort of climber then the instincts probably will be better than the Stix on you.
 Michael Ryan 26 Feb 2010
In reply to IainWhitehouse:

I have a pair. Comfy right out the box. And performing well for me. Review soon.
 Ian Broome 26 Feb 2010
In reply to IainWhitehouse: I thought the stix were a brilliant shoe, almost achieving a climbing shoe design classic! great on steeper limestone and surprisingly at home on slabby smeary gritstone, disapointed that they stopped them.

So the Instinct slipper isn't a like for like improvemen replacement for the stix... or a lesser performing softer more comfier option?

Are you likely to be getting them in at cragx? and do you have an idea on price as I know you tend to have better prices compared to Outside etc.

Thanks
 IainWhitehouse 26 Feb 2010
In reply to groovedog:
I'm loathe to describe one shoe as performing less well than another but....
> a lesser performing softer more comfier option?
Is very crudely how Scarpa put it to me. Three of us here have tested the Instinct lace. The most common verdict was 'good, but not a Booster'. That said, Tom, the longer term tester started to come round to them much more, at least inside.
I suspect that it will come done to how soft and/or precise you like your shoes. In The Foundry or The Works, with big footholds the Insticnt will probably feel better to many, especially if they like soft shoes. At Dumbarton or Malham I'd expect the Booster/Mago to wim hands down.

> Are you likely to be getting them in at cragx? and do you have an idea on price as I know you tend to have better prices compared to Outside etc.

We won't stock either Instict, at least initially. We'll stay with the Booster and will be getting the VapourV which is more along the lines of a Vision - all day performance rather than bite-your-bottom-lip-off performance.

HTH, Iain
 Michael Ryan 26 Feb 2010
In reply to IainWhitehouse:

The Five Ten Moccasym is one of my favourite rock shoes. I see the Scarpa Instinct slipper as similar but with far more support for edging, a snugger fit, and dare I say it, just as sticky.

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