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i posted something on the forums a week or two ago wondering about the gear on balane it is and some of you told me to watch committed vol. 1 so i did and it didnt really give me any idea about the gear. so i was just wondering what gear fits in aroud the block before the crux. any idea would be usefull.
thanks Pete Blair.
thanks Pete Blair.
In reply to peteblair:
It's the same gear as the Boggart in the block, right? Some kind of large wires. But I thought there was some clever small piece further out. I don't know anything about what that is.
jcm
It's the same gear as the Boggart in the block, right? Some kind of large wires. But I thought there was some clever small piece further out. I don't know anything about what that is.
jcm
In reply to peteblair:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=100269
Medium nuts and cams?
Chris
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=100269
Medium nuts and cams?
Chris
In reply to peteblair:
The gear at the top is an rp, not sure on number.
Gear low down is cams and wires. (These are pretty obvious)
The gear at the top is an rp, not sure on number.
Gear low down is cams and wires. (These are pretty obvious)
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Medium cams and large wires in the crack, then a small wire near the top. I think an RP4 would be ideal, but similar should suffice (standard rock 1 too broad).
Medium cams and large wires in the crack, then a small wire near the top. I think an RP4 would be ideal, but similar should suffice (standard rock 1 too broad).
In reply to Adam Lincoln: is it like a cam no.4 in the larger side of the crack
In reply to peteblair:
Dude, it will be really really obvious what it is from the ground. If you are needing to ask then you shouldn't be up there.
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln) is it like a cam no.4 in the larger side of the crack
Dude, it will be really really obvious what it is from the ground. If you are needing to ask then you shouldn't be up there.
In reply to Adam Lincoln: i live like 3 hours away from the peak and it would be nice to know what to take because i cant just pop back to home
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Or indeed solo the Boggart to find out. Although to be fair I suppose he might need to buy whatever the gear is - kinda like Nick Dixon on Teenage Menopause.
It's smaller than a cam 4.
jcm
Or indeed solo the Boggart to find out. Although to be fair I suppose he might need to buy whatever the gear is - kinda like Nick Dixon on Teenage Menopause.
It's smaller than a cam 4.
jcm
In reply to peteblair:
Take everything. Your not going all that way for one route are you?
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln) i live like 3 hours away from the peak and it would be nice to know what to take because i cant just pop back to home
Take everything. Your not going all that way for one route are you?
In reply to peteblair:
You are joking?! Surely you would normally take a decent rack with you when you climb somewhere. Are you only going to climb the one route.
I think I was one of those that told you to look at Commited. I thought you were asking about the more specialist piece at the top. The stuff in the block is in the Boggart - an E2. It should be fairly standard gear, so take a rack and check it out.
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln) i live like 3 hours away from the peak and it would be nice to know what to take because i cant just pop back to home
You are joking?! Surely you would normally take a decent rack with you when you climb somewhere. Are you only going to climb the one route.
I think I was one of those that told you to look at Commited. I thought you were asking about the more specialist piece at the top. The stuff in the block is in the Boggart - an E2. It should be fairly standard gear, so take a rack and check it out.
In reply to peteblair:
Just standard small-to-medium sized stuff (wires, cams) in The Boggart, and an RP4 (hard to place) near the top. There used to be a website with all this sort of stuff on for harder grit routes...?
Just standard small-to-medium sized stuff (wires, cams) in The Boggart, and an RP4 (hard to place) near the top. There used to be a website with all this sort of stuff on for harder grit routes...?
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
He's 14. He might not own a full rack.
(Or maybe he just wants to announce to the world that he is ready for an E7 headpoint. This is quite common on here)
> Take everything. Your not going all that way for one route are you?
He's 14. He might not own a full rack.
(Or maybe he just wants to announce to the world that he is ready for an E7 headpoint. This is quite common on here)
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
He wants to flash it.
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
> (Or maybe he just wants to announce to the world that he is ready for an E7 headpoint. This is quite common on here)
> (Or maybe he just wants to announce to the world that he is ready for an E7 headpoint. This is quite common on here)
He wants to flash it.
In reply to Offwidth:
Yeah, I've just noticed that too. oops!
Yeah, I've just noticed that too. oops!
In reply to peteblair:
i missed this first time round. to be honest pete blair this is coming across very much as an "i might try to flash an E7 - check me out!" type post(s).
marred slightly by the fact that you then go on to ask what gear to place on a well protected E2 crack climb.
or maybe i'm being too cynical. anyway, you have definitely succeeded in getting the attention of many people on this site, if that was your intention. i look forward to hearing how you get on...
i missed this first time round. to be honest pete blair this is coming across very much as an "i might try to flash an E7 - check me out!" type post(s).
marred slightly by the fact that you then go on to ask what gear to place on a well protected E2 crack climb.
or maybe i'm being too cynical. anyway, you have definitely succeeded in getting the attention of many people on this site, if that was your intention. i look forward to hearing how you get on...
In reply to peteblair:
Take everything you have to the crag, look up at the route, if you still want to do it then select gear that is likely to fit... Climb. Simples
You know what the top gear is (take a small selection - placements change and memories are fallible) so you can leave the rest of your rack on the Bogart if you don't want the weight.
How have you chosen gear for your previous hard ascents?
jk
Take everything you have to the crag, look up at the route, if you still want to do it then select gear that is likely to fit... Climb. Simples
You know what the top gear is (take a small selection - placements change and memories are fallible) so you can leave the rest of your rack on the Bogart if you don't want the weight.
How have you chosen gear for your previous hard ascents?
jk
In reply to jkarran:
Probably on a top rope
> (In reply to peteblair)
> How have you chosen gear for your previous hard ascents?
> jk
> How have you chosen gear for your previous hard ascents?
> jk
Probably on a top rope
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
To the original poster.talk about after you've had a decent crack at it
> (In reply to jkarran)
> [...]
>
> Probably on a top rope
Even that is optimistic for this route for him.as others have said if you are asking what gear goes in safe e2 then you will end up regreting setting off.think it sounds like a lot of boasting.reminds me of someone once said to me and a friend about an e8 onsight attemptof thiers the week previous.our eye brows lifted in shock(as he is a bit of a bullshitter).turned out he couldn't mantle the rail on Angels share!so not really an e8 attempt.> [...]
>
> Probably on a top rope
To the original poster.talk about after you've had a decent crack at it
In reply to peteblair:
I cant flash an E grade, but if I could and I was travelling 3 hours to the Peak District to climb it then I would take my whole rack anyway and then take a look at the route from the ground and choose the correct pieces of pro.
You don't need ask on a forum.
Still, looks like an awesome climb. Good luck! :-D
I cant flash an E grade, but if I could and I was travelling 3 hours to the Peak District to climb it then I would take my whole rack anyway and then take a look at the route from the ground and choose the correct pieces of pro.
You don't need ask on a forum.
Still, looks like an awesome climb. Good luck! :-D
In reply to anon1234:
To be fair you'd hardly know the top placement was an RP4, and I imagine it's handy to have this piece pre-racked, if not actually between your teeth, if you want to have much chance of placing it while laybacking that arete.
jcm
To be fair you'd hardly know the top placement was an RP4, and I imagine it's handy to have this piece pre-racked, if not actually between your teeth, if you want to have much chance of placing it while laybacking that arete.
jcm
In reply to peteblair: although its more dangerous, simba's pride is only british 6b. So flash that 1st as they are very close to one another!
In reply to Dangerous Dave:
When I was 14 I had a very incomplete rack and would therefore have wanted to know if a route I was after required gear I would need to get/borrow. I don't suppose it's much different for the OP whether realistic about his aspirations or not.
When I was 14 I had a very incomplete rack and would therefore have wanted to know if a route I was after required gear I would need to get/borrow. I don't suppose it's much different for the OP whether realistic about his aspirations or not.
In reply to mrjonathanr:
You would think that a kid capable of flashing E7 would have a rather substantial rack already...I wonder what his parents think.
You would think that a kid capable of flashing E7 would have a rather substantial rack already...I wonder what his parents think.
In reply to The Green Giant:
well his mum is his main climbing partner.
> (In reply to mrjonathanr)
>
> I wonder what his parents think.
>
> I wonder what his parents think.
well his mum is his main climbing partner.
In reply to The Green Giant: Yeah, but, particularly at harder grades, specialist gear is often required, it's not just nuts and cams in every size. Stuff like ballnuts, multiple RP's in the same size, etc...
In reply to fishy1:
The point is, that he has already received good beta on the essential specialist gear, and is now asking for advice on what goes in a straightforward crack on an E2, and has implied that he won't be taking a full rack with him.
> (In reply to The Green Giant) Yeah, but, particularly at harder grades, specialist gear is often required, it's not just nuts and cams in every size. Stuff like ballnuts, multiple RP's in the same size, etc...
The point is, that he has already received good beta on the essential specialist gear, and is now asking for advice on what goes in a straightforward crack on an E2, and has implied that he won't be taking a full rack with him.
In reply to peteblair:
Pete,
Just out of interest, how many climbs above E5 have you lead? Your profile says that you top-roped one in January 2010 "and then you realised you could do it".So have you led much since then? Only 'cos E76c onsight would be a big grade jump from E56a me thinks...
Pete,
Just out of interest, how many climbs above E5 have you lead? Your profile says that you top-roped one in January 2010 "and then you realised you could do it".So have you led much since then? Only 'cos E76c onsight would be a big grade jump from E56a me thinks...
In reply to peteblair: Good luck doing what Leo Holding couldn't do and James M has just managed. Ambition is great, but ask about gear-specific details after you have ticked a few solid E5s as you run the risk of blowing the onsight (or flash) for one of the few inspiring grit routes.
In reply to peteblair:
The crucial gear is the following:
About four or five years steadily onsighting your way up the through the grades. E7 flashes dont come overnight; you need to play the long game.
The crucial gear is the following:
About four or five years steadily onsighting your way up the through the grades. E7 flashes dont come overnight; you need to play the long game.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead: For someone who I imagine works with kids a lot you don't half like belittling them. First there was Franko on that other thread and now there is this guy. Admittedly it's a bit far fetched, but there is no need to be plain nasty.
In reply to manker:
I didnt belittle you Franco, I positively applauded your ascent of a tech 7 with pish tools. You clearly have a lot of talent and committment; all power to you.
As to the OP, I'm just trying to instill a little realism.
I didnt belittle you Franco, I positively applauded your ascent of a tech 7 with pish tools. You clearly have a lot of talent and committment; all power to you.
As to the OP, I'm just trying to instill a little realism.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> (In reply to peteblair)
>
> The crucial gear is the following:
>
> About four or five years steadily onsighting your way up the through the grades. E7 flashes dont come overnight; you need to play the long game.
>
> The crucial gear is the following:
>
> About four or five years steadily onsighting your way up the through the grades. E7 flashes dont come overnight; you need to play the long game.
'Whack' as the hammer hits the nails on the head.
In reply to all:
As long as the fall is not likely to kill/seriously injure the OP, what's the problem?
If he blows the onsight/flash/whatever, so what. There's plenty out there.
Any youth who comes on here with ambition, with a desire to get into hard grades, seems to be belittled by a lot of middle aged punters with no idea.
xxx
As long as the fall is not likely to kill/seriously injure the OP, what's the problem?
If he blows the onsight/flash/whatever, so what. There's plenty out there.
Any youth who comes on here with ambition, with a desire to get into hard grades, seems to be belittled by a lot of middle aged punters with no idea.
xxx
In reply to fishy1:
msharatt = middle-aged punter with no idea. I like it! Seriously though, although some comments are mean-spirited, some wariness at that grade is warranted. Although by all accounts the gear is solid enough, it would be quite a swing from that arete onto the Boggart gear. A fall ripping the RP if not well-placed could be unpleasant - so a little caution is a very sensible thing to recommend.
msharatt = middle-aged punter with no idea. I like it! Seriously though, although some comments are mean-spirited, some wariness at that grade is warranted. Although by all accounts the gear is solid enough, it would be quite a swing from that arete onto the Boggart gear. A fall ripping the RP if not well-placed could be unpleasant - so a little caution is a very sensible thing to recommend.
In reply to mrjonathanr: Could you also get a sling on the block, using the RP crack and the crack to the right of it?
In reply to fishy1:
Did you bother to look at anyone's profile who is giving out advice on here? A lot of very experienced climbers, who are trying to do their best, without being rude, that maybe the lad should try doing some routes a bit easier and build up some experience. He has head pointed E5 and onsighted E2. Do you really think trying to flash a hard E7 would be a very productive and sensible thing to do?
> (In reply to all)
> seems to be belittled by a lot of middle aged punters with no idea.
> seems to be belittled by a lot of middle aged punters with no idea.
Did you bother to look at anyone's profile who is giving out advice on here? A lot of very experienced climbers, who are trying to do their best, without being rude, that maybe the lad should try doing some routes a bit easier and build up some experience. He has head pointed E5 and onsighted E2. Do you really think trying to flash a hard E7 would be a very productive and sensible thing to do?
In reply to fishy1:
And clearly it is inconceivable that middle-aged punters who may have been climbing for 20 years , who may even have once been brash young things themselves, who may have the scars to prove it, might be in some way more qualified to make judgement than somebody who's top-roped an E5, watched a video and now thinks he's James McHaffie??! This is as clear an example of the Arrogance of Youth as you will find anywhere.
> Any youth who comes on here with ambition, with a desire to get into hard grades, seems to be belittled by a lot of middle aged punters with no idea.
And clearly it is inconceivable that middle-aged punters who may have been climbing for 20 years , who may even have once been brash young things themselves, who may have the scars to prove it, might be in some way more qualified to make judgement than somebody who's top-roped an E5, watched a video and now thinks he's James McHaffie??! This is as clear an example of the Arrogance of Youth as you will find anywhere.
In reply to fishy1:
Why? There are bomber cams and wires there.
> (In reply to mrjonathanr) Could you also get a sling on the block, using the RP crack and the crack to the right of it?
Why? There are bomber cams and wires there.
In reply to fishy1:
There's a big difference between ambition and delusion. I hope the lad proves us doubting punters wrong and doesn't hurt himself in the process but if I was a betting man I'd not be putting money on him redpointing it let alone flashing it given his apparent lack of any relevant experience at anything like the grade.
That's not meant to sound nasty or belittle, it just all seems a little far fetched to us middle aged punters with no idea what it was like to be a cocksure youth.
jk
> Any youth who comes on here with ambition, with a desire to get into hard grades, seems to be belittled by a lot of middle aged punters with no idea.
There's a big difference between ambition and delusion. I hope the lad proves us doubting punters wrong and doesn't hurt himself in the process but if I was a betting man I'd not be putting money on him redpointing it let alone flashing it given his apparent lack of any relevant experience at anything like the grade.
That's not meant to sound nasty or belittle, it just all seems a little far fetched to us middle aged punters with no idea what it was like to be a cocksure youth.
jk
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Because not everyone has a full set of cams.
In reply to fishy1:
People experienced enough to be try to Flash E7's do.
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln) Because not everyone has a full set of cams.
People experienced enough to be try to Flash E7's do.
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
Why do you think I am this 'franco'. Just because I did the same route, on the same day, with the same tools?
Please try and approach this with a nice manner as I remember what it was like when I was a younger climber with aspirations of climbing E6s and Scottish VIII and people said I was dreaming.
Goals will be a bit high, but instead of Balance it is, he might flash The Knock and then narcisus or something.
Kids who have ambition beyond their experience can be a bit annoying.
Men who like to put the kids down, when they have already reached their potential are bullies and it's easy to come across as a bully on this forum.
Why do you think I am this 'franco'. Just because I did the same route, on the same day, with the same tools?
Please try and approach this with a nice manner as I remember what it was like when I was a younger climber with aspirations of climbing E6s and Scottish VIII and people said I was dreaming.
Goals will be a bit high, but instead of Balance it is, he might flash The Knock and then narcisus or something.
Kids who have ambition beyond their experience can be a bit annoying.
Men who like to put the kids down, when they have already reached their potential are bullies and it's easy to come across as a bully on this forum.
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
Not all do. Probably most do, but not all.
> (In reply to fishy1)
> [...]
>
> People experienced enough to be try to Flash E7's do.
> [...]
>
> People experienced enough to be try to Flash E7's do.
Not all do. Probably most do, but not all.
In reply to manker:
Or break his feet trying to run before he can walk.
I'm not trying to bully anyone, although I appreciate these threads can seem a bit unpleasant. I'm actually being rather careful not to. However... someone with apparently very limited experience playing a high risk game he may or may not fully understand *deserves* (in the best possible sense) some words of caution.
jk
> Goals will be a bit high, but instead of Balance it is, he might flash The Knock and then narcisus or something.
Or break his feet trying to run before he can walk.
> Kids who have ambition beyond their experience can be a bit annoying.
> Men who like to put the kids down, when they have already reached their potential are bullies and it's easy to come across as a bully on this forum.
> Men who like to put the kids down, when they have already reached their potential are bullies and it's easy to come across as a bully on this forum.
I'm not trying to bully anyone, although I appreciate these threads can seem a bit unpleasant. I'm actually being rather careful not to. However... someone with apparently very limited experience playing a high risk game he may or may not fully understand *deserves* (in the best possible sense) some words of caution.
jk
In reply to manker:
You appear to have also done Bellhaven on the same day as Franco on the same trip, and have since had a shared experience on High Plains Drifter..
> Why do you think I am this 'franco'. Just because I did the same route, on the same day, with the same tools?
You appear to have also done Bellhaven on the same day as Franco on the same trip, and have since had a shared experience on High Plains Drifter..
In reply to peteblair:
How about trying some of the hardish routes closer to home, say the routes on Recastle, and see how they feel. Free and Easy was E3 in a previous guide and, according to another poster on here, is going back to (bold) E3. Take Care.
How about trying some of the hardish routes closer to home, say the routes on Recastle, and see how they feel. Free and Easy was E3 in a previous guide and, according to another poster on here, is going back to (bold) E3. Take Care.
In reply to tmawer: its not even that bold, two decent cams in the crack and then something higher up, it is sandstone though mind... I think that if you're not regularly onsighting sport 7c (+), theres not that much point trying it, who knows maybe one day you'll get stronger, don't want to blow the onsight do you??
In reply to Rob15:
Seems bold getting to the crack, but then I am a bit of a coward!
Seems bold getting to the crack, but then I am a bit of a coward!
In reply to tmawer: to be honest with you so am I, especially with soft sandstone placements. I know someone that fell onto the cams though so that instilled me with a little bit of confidence :S
In reply to Adam Lincoln:
I don't
Good luck to the kid, TBH I don't rate his chances but it's pretty safe I suppose and if you don't try you'll never know...
...although from time to time it may be better not to know.
> (In reply to fishy1)
> [...]
>
> People experienced enough to be try to Flash E7's do.
> [...]
>
> People experienced enough to be try to Flash E7's do.
I don't
Good luck to the kid, TBH I don't rate his chances but it's pretty safe I suppose and if you don't try you'll never know...
...although from time to time it may be better not to know.
In reply to Keeg: is it as well protected as people seem to think though? I just watched the clip again from onsight of mr Houlding on it, maybe with someone who is inexperienced at placing gear, or an inexperienced belayer a ground fall could be possible? even if it isn't you could still hurt yourself with a rather large whipper like that.
In reply to Keeg:
Only cos cams weren't invented in 1950.
> (In reply to Adam Lincoln)
> [...]
>
> I don't
>
> [...]
>
> I don't
>
Only cos cams weren't invented in 1950.
In reply to bentley's biceps:
Show some respect youth.
Show some respect youth.
In reply to Keeg:
Only because you spend your time lurking under pebbles
Fancy some sport once the clocks go forward?
jk
> I don't
Only because you spend your time lurking under pebbles
Fancy some sport once the clocks go forward?
jk
In reply to jkarran:
Definitely, after Easter I'll be keen to play with a string again.
Definitely, after Easter I'll be keen to play with a string again.
In reply to Rob15: Went to a Katherine Schirrmacher talk (very good), she had at least one fall off the arete - onto gear right of the arete. She seemed to think it was relatively safe (for E7 of course).
In reply to JDal:
>> it was relatively safe (for E7 of course).
E7's are generally better to fall off than low grade routes, assuming they have the same gear.
>> it was relatively safe (for E7 of course).
E7's are generally better to fall off than low grade routes, assuming they have the same gear.
In reply to fishy1:
So have you fallen off many E7s?
> E7's are generally better to fall off than low grade routes, assuming they have the same gear.
So have you fallen off many E7s?
In reply to petestack:
What's the consensus grade of this route from those that don't have a vested interest in it being E7?
> (In reply to fishy1)
> [...]
>
> So have you fallen off many E7s?
> [...]
>
> So have you fallen off many E7s?
What's the consensus grade of this route from those that don't have a vested interest in it being E7?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Too hard for me, Mick! But I've never been near it, have no vested interest and you did ask...
Too hard for me, Mick! But I've never been near it, have no vested interest and you did ask...
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
He he. You've never heard!
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> E7, surely? I've never heard anyone suggest otherwise.
>
> E7, surely? I've never heard anyone suggest otherwise.
He he. You've never heard!
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Mick, I thought you always came out against grade discussions?
I've still not done it, but was reasonably close a long, long time ago... At the time I thought E7 seemed perfectly reasonable. Physical and sustained esp. on your left arm, for grit. Certainly not the living end of E7 but it would seem extremely harshly graded as E6. And Mr Foster is such a nice chap it seems only right that his last big route on grit gets him an E7 tick. Oh no! A vested interest disclosed!
Mick, I thought you always came out against grade discussions?
I've still not done it, but was reasonably close a long, long time ago... At the time I thought E7 seemed perfectly reasonable. Physical and sustained esp. on your left arm, for grit. Certainly not the living end of E7 but it would seem extremely harshly graded as E6. And Mr Foster is such a nice chap it seems only right that his last big route on grit gets him an E7 tick. Oh no! A vested interest disclosed!
If the route started from the ground and the ground was level with the main horizontal break on Boggart - what would the V number be as highish-ball boulder problem?
Enty
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Well what did you think of it Mick, how about an opinion rather than sitting there taking the micky?
jk
> He he. You've never heard!
Well what did you think of it Mick, how about an opinion rather than sitting there taking the micky?
jk
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