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Dry tooling at Farleton and Hutton Roof

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 net 21 Apr 2010
Can whoever has been dry tooling at Farleton (Family Planning Buttress in particular) and Hutton Roof (Cyclops on Ronson Kirkby Wall) please not do so?

And scratching the name of the buttress into the foot of the crag isn't generally the done thing either.

I'll post some photos shortly.
In reply to net:

Really sad to hear this. Those crags used to be on my summer after work soloing circuit back when I lived in the S.Lakes, Cyclops is a great little problem. I can't for the life of me understand why anyone would dry tool at either of these venues, especially since there hasn't exactly been a dearth of good winter conditions this year.
OP net 21 Apr 2010
In reply to Dan Middleton, BMC: Hi Dan, yes, we were pretty puzzled! The scratch marks at Farleton look quite fresh too ("The Family Way" was particularly badly affected).

The scratch marks at Hutton Roof were less obvious, but that may have been partly because the wall was covered in mud!

Why? Just... why??
In reply to net:

> I can't for the life of me understand why anyone would dry tool at either of these venues,

I presume we're looking for some deeper explanation than 'because they're selfish irresponsible prats'?

jcm
 Pagan 21 Apr 2010
In reply to net:

> Why? Just... why??

Because you don't own the rock and they have a 'right' to do what they want on it? Oh, and let's not forget the only way you'll ever reach the lofty heights of grade IV is by dry tooling - really, there is no other feasible way. You heard it here first, folks.

</irony>

That's a real shame, Hutton Roof was one of the first places I ever went climbing and it's always nice to go back to. Sad to hear some selfish tossers have taken it upon themselves to trash bits of it. I have a few ideas about what I'd like to do to the perpetrators but I believe public lynchings are frowned upon these days.
 stewieatb 21 Apr 2010
In reply to net: Should be headed up there a week today, will keep an eye out for tools with tools and take pics of anything particularly bad I notice.
 Jamie B 22 Apr 2010
In reply to net:

There's a precedent for tooling at Hutton Roof, although not a good one. A few years ago I confronted somebody on here who was openly discussing dry-tooling Nick's Traverse; unfortunately I didnt get much back-up and I now cant find the thread in the archive.
 Jamie B 22 Apr 2010
In reply to Dan Middleton, BMC:

> Those crags used to be on my summer after work soloing circuit back when I lived in the S.Lakes.

It's a better man than me that soloes on Farleton's glassy holds...
 Jamie B 22 Apr 2010

> A few years ago I confronted somebody on here who was openly discussing dry-tooling Nick's Traverse; unfortunately I didnt get much back-up and I now cant find the thread in the archive.

I've now found the thread, and guess what? The protaganist is a registered user who is now using a proper Christian name and stuff. Not sure what to do now; should I name and shame on the premise that he might know something about ongoing tool-training at these venues? Or write off his postings of four years ago as a silly phase he was going through (he might after all just have been apraying and not in fact have done anything)?

Or is there a middle way? Decisions, decisions..
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:

No, just a more stupid one! I used to stick to the easiest routes at Farleton for this very reason. Better venues for soloing were "Button Moon" Warton Pinnacle and Fairy Steps. On really keen days I'd burn off as far as Earl or the Langdale boulders. I bet the Copt Howe circuit is in perfect nick right now as well.
 Jamie B 22 Apr 2010
In reply to Dan Middleton, BMC:

As I'm currently hobbling around after a 5m "jump" from Bowden Doors I know all about stupid, believe me!

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