UKC

Am thinking it would be fun ( in a sick way ) to work through a quality tick list of gritstone cracks, so what are your top ten VD- E1 yorkshire or peak district.

cheers matt

In reply to hdog76: The File at Higgar Tor (VS 4c) must be near the top of the list.

In reply to hdog76:


great crack at duke's quarry it doesn't get much better than this

In reply to hdog76:

Dogleg crack
Sorrells sorrow
Regents street
The vice

er... what type of jamming?

In reply to hdog76:

Strapiombo@Froggatt

In reply to hdog76:
bond street at millstone.

In reply to gribble:

mainly hand jamming...

good suggestions, will look them up, have done some but need to go and do them in better style.

In reply to hdog76: masochism,
Green crack,
Imposition,
Browns crack,
Dons crack,
Little nasty,
Fords folly,
All at Ramshaw,should be a good day out to do all them!

In reply to hdog76:
Here's a bit of a selection for you. Very incomplete. In very rough order of difficulty. All got significant bits of jamming on them but many have significant non-jamming bits too.
The Crank
The File
Broken Crack
Little Innominate
Bond Street
Jester Cracks
Fe Fi Fo Fum (limestone!)
Valediction
Valkyrie (Froggatt)
Matinee
Beeline
Terrazza Crack
Strapiombo
Chequer's Crack
Minion's Way
Dexterity
Masochism

In reply to hdog76:
The vice needs another mention : )

In reply to hdog76:

Alternatively some of my favorites (in no order of anything and off the top of my head).

The Crank (Ramshaw)
Silver Crack (Froggatt)
Matinee (Roaches)
Central Trinity (Stanage)
Roof Route (Burbage South)
Hawks Nest Crack (Froggatt)
Avalanche Wall and Left Eliminate (Curbar)

I should add that I like Offwidths

In reply to FrankW:

Browns crack at Bamford
Boot Crack at Caley
Whistkey crack and crack of doom at Almscliff
Boot crack at stanage (easy)

In reply to hdog76:

For me, the two best grit jamming schools are Curbar and Millstone. Not been to Ramshaw, but I hear its good for this sort of thing too.

Did Grond at the weekend (Dinas Cromlech, not grit), that is a hand jamming masterpiece. Rubbish feet most of the way (apart from foot jams of course) and no handholds to speak of apart from the crack itself. Must feel like E5+ if you can't jam.

In reply to hdog76:

freddies finale, wimberry

In reply to jonny2vests:

Oo. Grond is on my hitlist, as is Jam And Blast It at Baslow. I do love finding pure jamming sections on routes! Roof route at Rivelin anyone?

In reply to gribble:

Yeah, its nice to do routes where there are really no other options (apart from laybacking, and anyone that laybacks Grond deserves everything they get). Roof Route is good.

Done Jeepers Creepers? I have a couple of times now, but I've never seen anyone do it by only using the crack although many seem to think that is where the line goes and holds round the side are out. Horizontal jamming at E1? I think not.

In reply to jonny2vests:

I've used the side wall on Jeepers creepers rather than the crack. Great Harry and Lawrencefield is great if jammed rather than laybacked!

In reply to gribble:

To be honest, that's how I always do it. You then also get the benefit of the bridging holds which people who have epics on it / believe it to be undergraded don't often see.

In reply to jonny2vests:

Surprised no-one has added Embankment 2 at Millstone - quality jamming that!

In reply to antoniusblock:

Yeah, I mentioned Millstone. To paraphrase Johnny Dawes, Millstone is basically just one big Jam.

In reply to hdog76: south chimney layback, Almscliff

In reply to jonny2vests: Sorry. Green Death/Masters Edge begs to differ...

In reply to antoniusblock:


Oh gosh yes! I'd never noticed those aretes and stuff before.

For punters like us, the main event is jamming.

In reply to hdog76:

cheers for the feedback.. that should keep me busy for a while

In reply to hdog76: Contrary to most people's expectations the best jam crack in the country is the only crack at the indoor climbing wall K2 in Crawley, F6b+. High Rocks near Tunbridge Wells then has a lot of good non-skin damaging hand cracks, Marquita F6b, Coronation Crack, Krankenkopf, Boysens Crack, F6c, and First Crack F7b. There may be better gritstone hand cracks than these but I have not found them yet.

BACHELORS lEFT HAND?

In reply to Oliver Hill:

Not a lot there at VS-E1...or in Peak and Yorkshire though...unless SS grades are soft?

In reply to Oliver Hill:

Contradiction in terms?

In reply to Jay_Kay:

contender for my favourite route!!!

In reply to hdog76:
Tufted Crack at ilkley.

Also
esotericish (i.e. lacking stars) but tippling crack at caley.

In reply to VS4b:

Don't think Crack of Doom really applies. 1 or 2 jams, but not sustained. It's a layback.

Minions way
the vice
the file

the Harrogate wall E3 5c crack! Is it Ok to tape up indoors??? Even though I have never taped up outside!

Didn't jam this one

foot jams here but too wide for hands

In reply to gribble: If I am in any way near Dogleg Crack I can't stop myself from quickly nipping up it, whether I'm out for a run, a walk or even a climb, it's an issue I am working hard on!

In reply to Mattyk:


LOL. I wondered when the real cruelty wold start
jk

In reply to popebenedictus:



Footjams? Thats understatement. I had my leg jammed in as far as my thigh and i am fairly big.

In reply to hdog76:

Dexterity at Millstone is a cracker.

.

In reply to graeme hammond: agree with great crack... absolutely awesome. also crack of dawn in robin hoods (the quarry next to dukes) is a blast. hard jams to lovely jugs, then mud to top out. wonderful.

In reply to hdog76: Nice list of pain and suffering! I like this project, would it be bad form to consider taping or jamming gloves?

In reply to hdog76: Did jam and blast it a few years ago and it's worth it,also kremlin crack at rivlin is good fun along with most of the stuff already mentioned

In reply to riddle:
"would it be bad form to consider taping or jamming gloves?"

For a single jamming route yes, for a whole day or for something particularly special then no.

In reply to hdog76:

The Mincer.

Some might say that it's a layback, but having laid it on Sunday and fallen off the top move to land on my back on the ledge below, I'll certainly be jamming it when I go out next time.

In reply to hdog76:
To throw an easy one in there - Fox House Flake VS 4b is a really pleasant jamming experience at Burbage South. Solid lockers splitting an otherwise clean slab. Foot jams are so good it's hard to get them out!

In reply to Conor1:
Oh, and Delstree at Hen Cloud has some great jamming up the main groove/corner, as well as being a stonking all-round route.

In reply to hdog76:

Corpse Crack, Eastwood Rocks, a toughie at the grade.

J

In reply to popebenedictus:

Both fine offwidths

In reply to FrankW:

Oxymoron!

In reply to Oliver Hill:

Krankenkopf F6c????

In France, maybe. In England it's reasonably soft HVS.

jcm

In reply to wayno265:
Offwidths are good, especially if they are steep

In reply to hdog76: Ram at baildon. Hard for E1 though

In reply to hdog76: Crack of gloom, Roaches lower tier. An overlooked gem.
The best indoor crack has to be the thin crack at Redpoint centre in Brum, ring locks, finger stacks through thin hands to hands!

In reply to hdog76:

VS - Plumb Line (Running hill Pits)
HVS - Bond Street
Easy E1 - Dexterity
Hard E1 - The Vice

Or just go to Almscliff for a few months

In reply to hdog76:

Cleft wall route 1 at Stanage plantation. Only short sections of jamming but a proper job. HS4b, but only if you can jam offwidths.

In reply to Cragrat Rich: Also at Running Hill Pits:

Sodom - E1
Gomorrah - HVS

In reply to hdog76:
mmm... Surprised that Sauls Crack didn't make the list.

In reply to Ander:

Sauls is not a jamming route, only three jams on it that count and none are hard and one is a locker you could hang on all day.