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THE LOWDOWN: Golpe de estado by Ondra

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[The LowDown: Golpe de estado by Ondra, 2 kb]And now he's done his first 9b. Vojtech Vrzba reports: "Just would like to inform you, that Adam Ondra sent Golpe de Estado 9b in Siurana today. He was in Siurana 4 weeks ago and tried this route but after finger and tendon injury in his forearm [from working Demencia senil], he went back...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=54516

Some of these replies were posted on Björn's old blog website, and so won't be from registered UKC users
Marc Germani 13 Mar 2010
anyone know how many tries or days it took him?
André 14 Mar 2010
Article says it took him 10 days,3 tries each day. Got another question though. On the bigup blog it says:
"Chris says the bottom section is probably 9a on its own, and super bouldery. Then you have a sloping shake-out followed by an 8c+ endurance route."
So as I take it a hold broke in the upper 8c+ section, making it 9a. But what about the lower section? Another broken hold or does Adam just think it's rather 9a+ than 9a?
Anyway, incredible achievement. Imagine what this guy can do if he dedicates as much time to a project as Sharma does...
Marc Germani 14 Mar 2010
i say maybe Sharma was Sandbaging the grades.. or his type of routes are a different style from what Adam is used to, that's why he felt it harder.

that's just my opinion.

and about that czech website, i can just find the photos. i did not find anything written!

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