UKC

Where does this go? The picture in the BMC Stanage guide shows it going all the way left to a little groove with a crack at its top. So that's what I did, though the groove didn't seem as polished as the rest, and also there was no mega-reach, which people talk about regarding this route.

So does the route go directly up a couple of metres right of the groove, mantling and reaching for a break a metre below the top? I didn't try that, partly because I didn't fully trust the Friend 4 protecting it.

(I guess if people do different finishes it might explain why grades varying from E2 to E4 have been offered.)

In reply to Coel Hellier:

I've done it, but I can't remember. Straight up the wall by the obvious line, would be the best I could offer.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I did it before flexis - can i get the original grade?

ps can't remember how i finished.

In reply to Coel Hellier:
Not much to go on but does http://www.rockarchivist.co.uk/NRB/briancropper/BAC_067.jpg help?

Phil

In reply to RockArchivist:


Interesting. I suspect the line in the Stanage guide goes too far left. I also suspect the pebble Gary mentions is no longer there. (And Dry Rot HVS? Hmmm, they were hard in those days and deck-out potential didn't feature in the grade!)

In reply to Coel Hellier:

I think it was written up in the mags as "a real heart stopper" or similar.

Phil

In reply to Coel Hellier:

I think this could be morpho route. I tried when I was going well and couldn't reach into one of the top breaks. Annoying as I had just onsighted Slap and Spittle behind it.

J

In reply to Ropeboy:
If you ask Offwidth nicely he'll declare it E5 for the short....

In reply to Ropeboy:

Hey John - I don't forget about the short pensioner

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=424

In reply to Coel Hellier: It's about E2 if you finish up the small groove on the left part of the wall. The proper finish is about 1.5 or 2 m right of this groove via a long span between the breaks.

BETA ALERT!

It's a long time since I did it but I seem to recall there being a hidden pocket (or similar) on the underside of the break that you reach up from. I'm 5'10" and made the reach OK.

In reply to Coel Hellier:

It's one of those routes where finding the right sequence is critical. I remember being completely baffled by it one day, having soloed it onsight just a month or so earlier.

In reply to John Gillott:

lol, nice to see you're still lurking. You climbing much these days? Now I've got two under 5 I'm struggling to get the mileage but still battling on but way off form.

J

In reply to Ropeboy:

Yes, still getting out on and off - kids a bit older than yours so time's not so bad, though not being local like you those opportunistic few hours out when the weather clears can't be had. Nice to see your hard work (with others of course) on the Froggatt guide come to fruition. Plenty of new bits and pieces to have a look at. I'll drop you a line so we don't clog up this thread...

On topic - I don't remember the route going quite so left as the diagram in the guide seems to suggest. But then I don't remember the line being an issue - it seemed to be quite natural, following the line of least resistance. It's been a few years though so I can't be sure.