UKC

Sapphire - Guillemot Ledge

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 Owen W-G 21 Jul 2010
What condition are the pegs like on the roofs? Is it dangerous this route? Often been a bit intimidated but might give it a shot if it is ok.
 Mike Redmayne 21 Jul 2010
In reply to Owen W-G:
Not dangerous. The first pitch (though you might as well do it in one) is a bit run out, but it is not the hard bit (and I think it actually can be pretty well protected with a little ingenuity). Pegs above the roof: one of them is pretty new. I wouldn't both clipping the other. Plenty of chances for gear as you get up the the roof. It is sandy and awkward under the roof, but I guess that is part of the fun. Enjoy.
 Jim Hamilton 21 Jul 2010
In reply to Mike Redmayne:

I also found it sandy, awkward (and wet) under the roof, with no good gear where it would have been welcome. relied on a dubious cam placement at the back so would have taken quite a big lob if i had come off at that point . surmounting the 2 overhangs was relatively easy.
normal12b 21 Jul 2010
In reply to Owen W-G: this description was updated last summer:
http://wikitopo.com/cragRouteList.php?routeId=5138
In reply to Owen W-G:

Not too dangerous.

There is some gear on the (straightforward) 1st pitch. For the 2nd pitch I'd recommend bringing a Friend 4 (a 3.5 may also fit) to protect the sandy moves left under the 1st roof but it's not really essential. The peg at the lip looks good and can also be backed up.

Once you're over the 1st roof/overlap there's more gear than you can shake a stick at.


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