This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
I've been climbing for a while but can't jam for toffee. Is there anywhere in particular that would be a good place to try and develop this skill?
In reply to clipskipper:
Cracks are pretty good for this
Cracks are pretty good for this
In reply to clipskipper: Hen Cloud.
In reply to clipskipper: America
In reply to clipskipper:
Kingston town mon wi' me man Ro-bart an' ting!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2jcFnDzfn0&feature=fvst
Kingston town mon wi' me man Ro-bart an' ting!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2jcFnDzfn0&feature=fvst
In reply to clipskipper:
The Peak is probably the best in England / Wales, but I'm sure there are plenty of routes at Swanage you could jam if you wanted..
The Peak is probably the best in England / Wales, but I'm sure there are plenty of routes at Swanage you could jam if you wanted..
In reply to clipskipper:
Almscliff - Yorkshire (especially at the grades you operate at)
or this joint.... (i know it's getting boring, but I promised to promote the place)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1556
Almscliff - Yorkshire (especially at the grades you operate at)
or this joint.... (i know it's getting boring, but I promised to promote the place)
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1556
In reply to clipskipper:
A kitchen perhaps, but I've never come across a recipe for toffee that featured jam amongst the ingredients.
> can't jam for toffee. Is there anywhere in particular that would be a good place to try and develop this skill?
A kitchen perhaps, but I've never come across a recipe for toffee that featured jam amongst the ingredients.
In reply to clipskipper: right hand crack at brimham rocks
In reply to kit perry: its only got 1 or 2 jams in that
In reply to Cragrat Rich: have you seen her profile? she lives in hants/dorset! if she makes the trip all the way from there to bolton abbey, then spends a further 40 minutes on the walk in, in order to spend an afternoon at...North Nab, her next trip will probably be to hunt you down and kill you. ;-D
(she may even offer muppetfilter the job of contract killer)
(she may even offer muppetfilter the job of contract killer)
In reply to clipskipper: put a top rope on some jamming cracks then all you have to do is climb them and focus on technique rather than worrying about placing gear, getting pumped and then falling off!
In reply to Toreador:
Yeah. It's alot quicker when your party isn't carrying so many quickdraws in!!
> (In reply to pebbles)
> It's actually only a 20 minute walk in so shouldn't be a problem
> It's actually only a 20 minute walk in so shouldn't be a problem
Yeah. It's alot quicker when your party isn't carrying so many quickdraws in!!
In reply to clipskipper:
fair head
fair head
In reply to clipskipper:
Valle dell'Orco Italy!!!
Valle dell'Orco Italy!!!
In reply to clipskipper: brimham and almscliff offer a wide grade range for jamming routes and some absolute belters at that !
In reply to blanchie14c:
Roy Walker was right about you...
> (In reply to clipskipper)
> Cracks are pretty good for this
> Cracks are pretty good for this
Roy Walker was right about you...
In reply to kit perry:
I've heard quite a few people talk about this. And I've seen someone try it (not pretty).
There is NO jamming whatsoever on the Sloth. Unless you want to make it 3 grades harder. Its simple jug pulling all the way to glory.
> (In reply to clipskipper)
>
> The Sloth.. you'll feel like your jamming for dear life!
>
> The Sloth.. you'll feel like your jamming for dear life!
I've heard quite a few people talk about this. And I've seen someone try it (not pretty).
There is NO jamming whatsoever on the Sloth. Unless you want to make it 3 grades harder. Its simple jug pulling all the way to glory.
In reply to clipskipper:
Yosemite.
By the end of a month or so, jamming will feel like a trusted friend.
Yosemite.
By the end of a month or so, jamming will feel like a trusted friend.
In reply to clipskipper:
Serious suggestion. Apparent North (Stanage) is actually quite friendly. The Real 20ft Crack area.
Serious suggestion. Apparent North (Stanage) is actually quite friendly. The Real 20ft Crack area.
In reply to jonny2vests:
I always use one (an abosloute locker), right-hand just by the lip when reaching left for the last rung on the ladder.
Chris
>
>
> There is NO jamming whatsoever on the Sloth. Unless you want to make it 3 grades harder. Its simple jug pulling all the way to glory.
>
> There is NO jamming whatsoever on the Sloth. Unless you want to make it 3 grades harder. Its simple jug pulling all the way to glory.
I always use one (an abosloute locker), right-hand just by the lip when reaching left for the last rung on the ladder.
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs:
So thats why it in the guidebook then. I've just never found a reason to, and is not like I've got bags of reach.
(cue tons of people saying I cant jam - yawn)
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
> I always use one (an abosloute locker), right-hand just by the lip when reaching left for the last rung on the ladder.
>
> Chris
> [...]
>
> I always use one (an abosloute locker), right-hand just by the lip when reaching left for the last rung on the ladder.
>
> Chris
So thats why it in the guidebook then. I've just never found a reason to, and is not like I've got bags of reach.
(cue tons of people saying I cant jam - yawn)
In reply to jonny2vests:
(cue tons of people saying I cant jam - yawn)
I can't jam (I'm 105kg so 1895kg of people before you can legitimately claim 'tons')
(cue tons of people saying I cant jam - yawn)
I can't jam (I'm 105kg so 1895kg of people before you can legitimately claim 'tons')
In reply to jonny2vests:
Yep, fantastic fist jam at the lip of Sloth. I generally stick a hex seven in it and it becomes a fantastic jug!
Yep, fantastic fist jam at the lip of Sloth. I generally stick a hex seven in it and it becomes a fantastic jug!
In reply to kit perry:
Eh? It has one simple fist lock in 20+m of climbing. Visionary line though!
OP: Almscliff, Brimham, Millstone, Curbar, Burbage, Stanage, Roaches, Hen Cloud are all good crags with enough jamming to keep the blood oozing for years to come.
jk
> The Sloth.. you'll feel like your jamming for dear life!
Eh? It has one simple fist lock in 20+m of climbing. Visionary line though!
OP: Almscliff, Brimham, Millstone, Curbar, Burbage, Stanage, Roaches, Hen Cloud are all good crags with enough jamming to keep the blood oozing for years to come.
jk
In reply to jkarran:
Yeah, but it's covered in jugs. When faced with jug ladder, climb jugs.
> (In reply to kit perry)
>
> [...]
>
> Eh? It has one simple fist lock in 20+m of climbing. Visionary line though!
>
> [...]
>
> Eh? It has one simple fist lock in 20+m of climbing. Visionary line though!
Yeah, but it's covered in jugs. When faced with jug ladder, climb jugs.
In reply to MHutch:
Yes but its unnecessary, 2 of us lead it, no jam (I pulled the rope and used my mates gear)... 3rd man came to 2nd... Jammed it and fell off.
Also Jug on a hex... AID surely, there's a jug just above the lip...
As for the OP, Bachelors at Hen cloud is awesome
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> Yep, fantastic fist jam at the lip of Sloth. I generally stick a hex seven in it and it becomes a fantastic jug!
>
> Yep, fantastic fist jam at the lip of Sloth. I generally stick a hex seven in it and it becomes a fantastic jug!
Yes but its unnecessary, 2 of us lead it, no jam (I pulled the rope and used my mates gear)... 3rd man came to 2nd... Jammed it and fell off.
Also Jug on a hex... AID surely, there's a jug just above the lip...
As for the OP, Bachelors at Hen cloud is awesome
In reply to Oliver Houston:
It was a joke. I would never commit such terrible crimes. Well, not when anyone was looking, anyway.
I was sorely tempted though, having filled up the lovely jam with a hex.
> (In reply to MHutch)
> [...]
>
>
> Also Jug on a hex... AID surely, there's a jug just above the lip...
>> [...]
>
>
> Also Jug on a hex... AID surely, there's a jug just above the lip...
It was a joke. I would never commit such terrible crimes. Well, not when anyone was looking, anyway.
I was sorely tempted though, having filled up the lovely jam with a hex.
In reply to jkarran:
Erm maybe. Dunno what a fist lock is when its at home, thought it might be a fist jam...
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> Erm, I think you're agreeing with me?
>
> jk
>
> Erm, I think you're agreeing with me?
>
> jk
Erm maybe. Dunno what a fist lock is when its at home, thought it might be a fist jam...
In reply to jonny2vests:
I thought the difference was that a jam was an outward force but a lock was a twisting force but I'm willing to be corrected?
I thought the difference was that a jam was an outward force but a lock was a twisting force but I'm willing to be corrected?
In reply to jonny2vests:
It's a jam that requires no effort, you just put your hand in the crack and it locks in place or at least mine did. For one move at least it's easier than using the obvious jugs. My point was, like yours it's not a jamming route, it just happens to have the odd rather friendly jam on it.
I give up.
jk
It's a jam that requires no effort, you just put your hand in the crack and it locks in place or at least mine did. For one move at least it's easier than using the obvious jugs. My point was, like yours it's not a jamming route, it just happens to have the odd rather friendly jam on it.
I give up.
jk
In reply to clipskipper:
Surprised no-one's mentioned The File. Purest jamming crack I've been on. Safe as houses and a friendly grade for the OP too. A few laps on that and you'd be laughing.
Surprised no-one's mentioned The File. Purest jamming crack I've been on. Safe as houses and a friendly grade for the OP too. A few laps on that and you'd be laughing.
In reply to Mick Ward:
It's a fair cop - last time I was on it I couldn't feel my hands because they were so numb. Mind you, if you're new to jamming that may be a good thing!
It's a fair cop - last time I was on it I couldn't feel my hands because they were so numb. Mind you, if you're new to jamming that may be a good thing!
In reply to jonny2vests:
Depends - You never been pumped on steep juggy terrain then found a thank-god jam?
E
> (In reply to jkarran)
> [...]
>
> Yeah, but it's covered in jugs. When faced with jug ladder, climb jugs.
> [...]
>
> Yeah, but it's covered in jugs. When faced with jug ladder, climb jugs.
Depends - You never been pumped on steep juggy terrain then found a thank-god jam?
E
In reply to Different Steve:
Shockingly (having lived in Sheff for long enough), I've only done The File once. We did it as the warm-up for The Rasp. (Perhaps we should have done 'em the other way round?) It was an eventful day as my mate discovered that F8a+ crimping was going to get him absolutely nowhere on Higgar. (Which is as it should be.) He took the inevitable joshing in good part.
Mick
Shockingly (having lived in Sheff for long enough), I've only done The File once. We did it as the warm-up for The Rasp. (Perhaps we should have done 'em the other way round?) It was an eventful day as my mate discovered that F8a+ crimping was going to get him absolutely nowhere on Higgar. (Which is as it should be.) He took the inevitable joshing in good part.
Mick
In reply to clipskipper:
Seriously go to Burbage Valley. Burbage north and South offer dozens of nice micro routes at Diff standard where you can experiment in safety and privacy.
Remember the foot sequences are almost as important as the hands.
Seriously go to Burbage Valley. Burbage north and South offer dozens of nice micro routes at Diff standard where you can experiment in safety and privacy.
Remember the foot sequences are almost as important as the hands.
In reply to The Purple Pimpernel:
I would agree with this.
We spent a day there, only doing cracks - they exist at all grades, so you can start on something easy and work your way up to a level that challenges you.
> (In reply to clipskipper)
>
> Seriously go to Burbage Valley. Burbage north and South offer dozens of nice micro routes at Diff standard where you can experiment in safety and privacy.
> Remember the foot sequences are almost as important as the hands.
>
> Seriously go to Burbage Valley. Burbage north and South offer dozens of nice micro routes at Diff standard where you can experiment in safety and privacy.
> Remember the foot sequences are almost as important as the hands.
I would agree with this.
We spent a day there, only doing cracks - they exist at all grades, so you can start on something easy and work your way up to a level that challenges you.
In reply to clipskipper: I learnt to jam on mantlepiece crack at stanage, very well protected so you can place hexes above you and then just jam away without worry, probably should mention I have big hands, I wouldn't think everyone could jam there.
In reply to clipskipper: Heres a couple closer to home :
Ogmore : Megapolis. Horrible struggle for me.
The dewerstone. Lots. I particularly enjoyed fruitflancase and climbers club direct.
Up in the lake district Amos Moses on the napes and In pembroke 'The Kraken'
Ogmore : Megapolis. Horrible struggle for me.
The dewerstone. Lots. I particularly enjoyed fruitflancase and climbers club direct.
Up in the lake district Amos Moses on the napes and In pembroke 'The Kraken'
In reply to clipskipper:
Yes. Grond - Top of the Cromlech
> I've been climbing for a while but can't jam for toffee. Is there anywhere in particular that would be a good place to try and develop this skill?
Yes. Grond - Top of the Cromlech
In reply to Mick Ward:
The ground beneath Ramshaw has been well watered with tears...
Good, helps to wash off the blood
I'd suggest trying to work through the Ramshaw jamming tick list in the new Roaches guide.
The ground beneath Ramshaw has been well watered with tears...
Good, helps to wash off the blood
I'd suggest trying to work through the Ramshaw jamming tick list in the new Roaches guide.
In reply to Reach>Talent:
"The pain, the pain, it hurts so good!" (Tony Yaniro). Not sure he'd be saying that after a session at Ramshaw...
Mick
> (In reply to Mick Ward)
> I'd suggest trying to work through the Ramshaw jamming tick list in the new Roaches guide.
"The pain, the pain, it hurts so good!" (Tony Yaniro). Not sure he'd be saying that after a session at Ramshaw...
Mick
In reply to clipskipper: (a) Running Hill Pits; (b) Indian Creek
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Fri Night Vid Finding Focus - Life Behind The Lens of a Climbing Photographer
This week's Friday Night Video is a portrait of a prolific climbing photographer from Wedge Climbing. Sam Pratt is well known in both the outdoor and competition scene but if you haven't heard of him, you've likely seen...
26 Apr
Loading Notifications...