UKC

I've recently started using a GriGri and I'm looking for a screwgate to use with it that doesn't flip over and risk sideloading. What do others use? Is the belay master good for this? or just a smaller screwgate?!
Any advice appreciated!

In reply to tash:

I have to admit that I have never experienced this problem with my grigri. I use a normal (fairly old and heavy) D-shaped screw gate. I guess a more rounded krab would rotate more, so maybe something with a more pronounced D shape would work. Thinking about it, my krab is quite fat compared to modern things like the Neon, sentinal etc. Perhaps that stop it rotating too?

In reply to tash:

Not sure about gri gri's as I don't use one regularly but I have switched away from the normal type of krab (D or HMS) everyone uses and which does tend to flip and cross load. I now use an oval krab, which is great and doesn't cross load at all. It does have the disadvantage that unless you look closely, you don't know which way the gate opens as it is symetrical, so I've just put my usual marker tape at the end which you want on your belay loop to get the gate opening the right way.

http://www.needlesports.com/Catalogue/Rock-Climbing-Equipment/Karabiners/Ov...

In reply to tash:

Just support it in the palm/fingers of your right hand while you're belaying. Keeps everything aligned and allows you to pay out rapidly. Also, I'd not stress too much about occasional cross-loading, 7+kN is quite adequate.

Belaymaster would be a PITA. Jon's suggestion of an oval is a better one if this still concerns you.

jk

In reply to tash: The DMM 'Fatboy' screwgate biner works great, it doesn't flip and there's very little chance of it being cross loaded if you attach it to your belay loop with the thin end on the grigri. Mine came with the belaymaster attachment (promptly binned for being faff) which is also a great device to stop flipping, if you can put up with it. Also available in a quicklock version if you like being super safe.

In reply to tash:
I use the DMM Sentinel with mine. I have never had a problem with it spinning round or twisting. I used to have this problem with my DMM Boa though but got used to holding it to prevent this.

In reply to tash:

I found round HMS shaped krabs to work well (like DMM Fatboy).
D shaped I-beams (or the ones I tried) all had the problem that the Gri-Gri would't slide properly around the corner of the spine. So instead of crossloading the karabiner on the belay loop it crossloaded the eye of the gri-gri which is probably a bigger problem.
Oval seems a good solution as well

In reply to jkarran:

To provide an alternative perspective - I find my Belaymaster no hassle at all. I used to have an old one which I decided was a bit battered and needed replacing, and thought about buying something else, but it really doesn't bother me at all. So now I have a nice I-beam one.

Takes maybe a quarter of a second to do up the clip, and as well as avoiding cross-loading, it makes it really obvious if you've forgotten to do it up. Only time it is a hassle is (a) if you need to use the crab for something other than belaying (b) if you want to lock off your belay plate, neither of which are exactly common.

In reply to tash:

I use a Petzl Am'D ball lock oval. It works well for me.

In reply to tash:
You could get one of these, but I think a belay master would be fine.

http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1637

In reply to tash:

If you can wait until the spring, Black Diamond are bringing out a brilliant new screwgate that resolves that problem. It can't rotate in use. Perfect!

In reply to tash: I think Petzl are now recommending an oval screwgate for this very reason. I bought the Petzl one and have found it to be far less hassle than the pear shaped ones. I find the belay master a bit annoying but I have seen a pear shaped screwgate with a clip across the bottom to keep it in place. I don't know what make it was though.

Al

In reply to Steve Crowe:

link?

In reply to sm1thson:

Black Diamond Gridlock
http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/news.php?id=2910
about 1/3 down the page.

In reply to tash:

Thanks for all the replies - much appreciated! I think i'm going to try an oval, seems a good and reasonably priced option for now (£25 for the freino?!). Thanks for the heads up on the Gridlock too - looks good!

In reply to A Downing: + for sentinel

In reply to tash: Just wrap some fingertape round the bend of the krab so that the grigri can't slide round to the back of the krab. Cheapest option of all and it works.

In reply to tash: another for the fat boy, I use it with gri gri and its great

In reply to tash: I stopped using a HMS with mine as it did crossload a few times. no issues since swapping to a clog oval.

In reply to tash:

I use a steel oval because it's less vulnerable to wear from the plates of the GriGri than alloy and I'm never carrying it so far that the weight matters.