UKC

Just back from the WC in China, where he placed a for him I suspect disappointing 4th, Ramon Julian Puigblanque got his revange by making the FA of Duele la realidad extension at Oliana, Spain. The original route was put up by Markus Bock early this year and was, because of it's relative shortness,...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=58655

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Go repeat some hard stuff that's more interesting.

In reply to Quarryboy: pretty pointless reply there matey. why bother?

as to the news - how does another 30m of climbing only bump up the grade such a short way? genuinely interested! does the angle relax significantly or something?

In reply to Quarryboy: So 9a isn't hard? Or is this just you being bitter about this thread?
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=428965

In reply to jamface:

to take it up to 9a require some more sustained action, so you'd expect the climbing to be around the same difficulty, but without the hard cruxes (or something along those lines)

In reply to Quarryboy: so you have to work to climb E2 and f6c+ but f9a isnt hard?what a tool you are

In reply to Quarryboy: In fairness to you, you are only 15, plenty of us were arseholes in one way or another when we were 15, my advice to you is to stop being one.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

I'm not saying f9a is easy by any means. Its just there are so many people who put up 9a's now its more interesting when they get repeated because the grade is more reliable

In reply to Quarryboy: so if someone put up a new f9b+ you wouldnt get excited until was repeated?

In reply to beastofackworth:

Not really I mean look at Chilam balam that was meant to be f9b+ and I didn't get excited about it, because it probably aint f9b+ that's just what some dude said it was.

Wares if Adam Ondra did it and said it was f9b I would be pretty excited despite the fact it got downgraded.

In reply to Quarryboy: >

You were 8/9 years old and hadn't started climbing yet. Why would you get excited about it?


As I remember the grade was never really in doubt(confirmed by Sharma?)and but whether Bernabe climbed it or not.

In reply to Robertostallioni:

True but when I heard that there was a route at such grade like you said it wasn't exciting because it was supposedly climbed by someone who no one had heard of, and there was no evidence of whether he had actually climbed it or not.

In reply to Quarryboy: i think people weren't excited by it because it had a bolt on hold mid crux.plenty of people knew about bernebe fernandez,he already had a good cv of hard routes behind him.

i think your initial comments just show that these days people just dont understand how hard these routes really are because you hear about them on a regular basis but as a percentage i would say there are less than 1% of climbers worldwide who can climb french 8a let alone french 9a!!

In reply to Quarryboy: This is a useful link.

http://novebi.ning.com/group/villanuevadelrosario/forum/topics/chilam-balam

Don't bother with the hotlinks, but read all the text.

In reply to Quarryboy: Someone who no one had heard of? Pretty certain he was the first Spaniard to climb 8c & 8c+......obviously this was back when you were just an egg son...

In reply to beastofackworth:

Google his name not much happens, infact if you Google my local climbing instructors name just as much content occurs about his achievements.

Run a search on Chris Sharma you will find page after page of results.

I would agree with you there I can barely comprehend f7c let alone f9a

Steve Maclue said he couldn't imagine how hard Hubble would be until he had Onsighted f8a+

In reply to anyone: youtube.com/watch?v=nQezXbiroiE&

In reply to Robertostallioni:

Its a good film

In reply to Quarryboy:
It's not about google, different language and era.
He was climbing 8a at 14, 8c at 17. Not bad for 19 years ago?
I have no idea about the grade of CB, or if he even climbed it, but I do know who he is and I know his route history, which is very impressive including many many >8c to 9a/+s (not always the most natural style routes, but still unquestionably hard).
As Roberto and North Country have explained...he has a solid grade background.

In reply to Quarryboy:

your climbing instructor must be a far better climber if google says so

In reply to beastofackworth:

I don't know Google image "Ben West"

In reply to Quarryboy: wow one picture on the first page.ive never heard of him btw
try google imaging bernabé fernández,7 pictures on the first page so he must be 6 times better atleast!!

In reply to beastofackworth:

also Markus Bock is no slouch so I'm sure his 8c+ is quite solid, to add another 30m of hard climbing on top of that is pretty amazing. Just curious why the original stopped where it did, lack of time, bolts, holds?

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

This thread is utterly ridiculous....just tedious.

Looks like some nice tufa though.

In reply to beastofackworth:
2 pics

I don't know do you have to be 6 times better to climb f9b+ than you do to climb f8b?

In reply to beastofackworth:

and by that logic Chris Sharma is about 20 times better than bernabé fernández and yet he can still only climb 9b!

In reply to Quarryboy:


atleast 6 times better.

In reply to Quarryboy:



its your logic,you started the whole" my climbing instructor has a picture on google images so he must be better than x y z".

In reply to beastofackworth:

That was to prove a point and we are both being childish so lets move on!

In reply to Quarryboy: what point did it prove?

so what would someone have to go and climb for you to class it as interesting?

In reply to beastofackworth:
I would need the point of view gun from hitchhiker's guide to the galaxy to give you a better understanding than I have already tried to give you.

Basicly f9a is not uncommon nowadays and the fact that grades can be given out so halfheartedly means that they are not always reliable until the route which it has been given to has seen a repeat. This is the basic outline of what I have tried to explain.

If I cannot express my views more than I already have done I apologise.