UKC

I have never climbed on Lochnagar. What would people recommend for this weekend at aboutII/III. Are any of the easier gullies likley to be in and safe - the guide books seems to think they are all very avalanche prone?

In reply to MG:

Central Buttress is a good early season option at that grade. The upper slopes have been known to avalanche but I wouldn't expect enough build up at this time of year and there's not usually a cornice.

In reply to MG:
Big dump of snow in the next few days forecast. The gullies will probably be iffy, i usually pick a line on central buttress, or Black Spout buttress when daylight is short, and the snow unconsolidated.

In reply to MG:
We were up on Central buttress the weekend before last and there is a fair accumulation of snow on the upper slopes - given its been pretty cold since then, and with a big dump of snow forecast I'd be cautious of the avalanch hazzard on them. From the start of the slopes to the summit is more than you can do in a single pitch (even with 60m ropes) as well.

Unfortunately there insn't a great deal thats good in those grades on lochnagar if its avalanchy.

Depends on how confident you are on mixed, but blackspout buttress can feel tough for the grade, and remember that the normal approach takes you under all of the easy gullies.

The main easy gullies (Parallel A, Raeburns and Blackspout) are indeed fairly prone to avalanch, particularly the latter two. Whats safe will depend on how much snow comes down and what the wind does with it, but a avalanch alternative may to head out of the corrie and take the nose running up to An Stuic - an easy summer scramble and not bad in winter.

There are altrnatives not in the main corrie bowl as well - the sunset areas etc and the next corrie over too. Much shorter routes but the aspects may lend themselves better.

Cheers,

Stuart

In reply to MG: Make an early start, especially at this time of year, it's quite a long approach. There are some good shorter routes in the Southern Sector which you can get to quicker and can get off quicker if you are pushed for time.

Thanks all

In reply to MG: Have been into Lochnagar a couple of times this season so far. Was in last Monday. There is quite a lot of snow in there already and there is going to be quite a bit more throughout this week. Avoid all the gullies, they will be a complete waste of time, there was no consolidation what so ever last Monday, I had a dicey escape from the small gully at the top of Magic Pillar on Monday, I do not see the snow pack improving that dramatically over the space of this week with the forecast.

Seeing as you haven't climbed in Lochgnagar before, it will be roughly 1hr 30 to the Meikle Pap if you go at it and you will be a little over 2 hours down into the corrie itself. With the short days the Southern Sector is ideal. Some good quality routes and you are just a short walk around the plateau back down to the pap.
Depending on what grade your climbing at exactly I'd reccomend:

Jacob's Slabs 75m III 4 *
Good climbing on the upper pitch, although I would say quite a tough going tech 4. Good wee route though.

Perseverance Wall area is probably your best bet I would say. Loads to do at your grade there.

Perseverance Rib 80m III
Nice line up the left of the buttress.

Also the line just to the left of Perseverance Rib is really good fun, it is not in the guidebook. It's called 'Never Say Die' III 4 and has really good gear and belays, good route.

Central Buttress is quite a sizeable day, especially when the weather is crap, we have had to bail off it before.
Definately I would say head for Perseverance wall area, all in your grade, good clibing and just 2 or 3 pitches, leave the big cliffs for the later months, plenty of Winter to come.

Cheers
Craig

In reply to MG:

Forsaken Rib is nice enough at III provided the turf is well frozen.

In reply to Lamb:


To the left? I always thought Perseverance Rib looks a bit scrappy itself, surprised there's worthwhile climbing to be had on the broken ground to the left of it?

Iain

In reply to IainMunro: Oh aye, there is worthwhile climbing for sure. It was our first outing this Winter back in October. A nice 2 pitches to ease the Winter back in. Perseverance Wall shouldn't be overlooked, some worthwhile climbing to be had.
Never Say Die was tres enjoyable, some nice moves, a touch on the easy side of Tech 4 however.
Southern Sector is absolutely smashing.

In reply to IainMunro:

Never Say Die 80m III,4. Simon Richardson. 28th November 2008.

Climb the line of grooves up the crest of Perseverance Rib to join the final section of The Vice above its chokestone.

In reply to Lamb:
1.5 hrs in to the pap does assume no deep drifts on the way in though, which can be typical for much of the later half of the walk if there has been much snow fall.

In reply to CurlyStevo:

That would be my time in the summer with a light sack.

In reply to Andy Nisbet:
I remember one day by the time the access road had been ploughed and we'd trudged it in, it was well past miday by the time we got to the pap (depsite an early alarm call) we estimated well over an hour to the base of the routes from there and at the time called it quits and went back to the car!