UKC

Wife has given me a climbing shop voucher for Christmas.
Currently puntering at V3 level, now looking to push on.
Would probably look to climb 1-2 times a week indoors, with trips to the peak. Previously used Scarpa Vantage that are nearly shot.
Any recommendations ?
Cheers

In reply to robdan: With the obvious caveat that they have to fit, La Sportiva Muira Lace and katanas are good all round shoes, as are five ten anasazis in any velcro or lace style. Velcro Muiras are a bit more downturned and stiffened so better for steeper stuff. Can't really comment on any of scarpas new range as they're way too wide for my feet, and red chillis and boreals have questionable rubber.
The problem with asking this question on here is people will come back with their favourite shoes, which may not be any good for you (or even for them, not everyone knows what they're talking about).

In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll: Thanks Andy for the pointers. Scarpas seem to suit my feet well but I'll consider and try a few more you have mentioned.

In reply to robdan: go outdoors are selling scarpa vantage shoes for £26 if you want another pair.
i currently use scarpa vapour lace ups which are a great comfy shoe and have great performance too(ive done font 7c on grit/limestone/indoors in them).good fit and last well too,great all round boot.
as andy states,people are just going to recomend what they have,you really need to try a few pair on and see what you get on with but at V3 its doubtfull your boots are holding you back anyway

In reply to beastofackworth: You're right about that, it isn't the rock shoes. Hopefully some more dedicated time and effort will help a little !

In reply to robdan:

lets try another angle, synthetics tend to smell, even if your feet don't.
So scarpa and sportiva are non pongy, evolve and 5.10 tend to pong.
My evolves are so bad i daren't use them on still days outside. generalisation I know.

Might be teaching you to suck eggs, but here's some other thoughts, discount if you know it already.

If you're planing on going out lots, buy more than one pair. there are many approaches.eg
1) buy a new pair as the old ones get comfy. You can then wear in the new ones, wear the comfy ones for pushing yourself and the old close to worn out ones for down the wall and warming up in.
2) Buy 2 (or more) pairs. One ubber cheap basically disposable pair that fit OK without much pain etc. (eg red chilli corona, bargin scarpas, evolves). These you use for beating up down the wall, on long multipitch (as they are comfy) and low grade routes & mileage. They work well in font too. The second pair is your "good" pair for those harder ascents, the tighter fitting, expensive "tech" pair. Some add a down toe pair to this list for overhanging/sport type climbs.

The third option is to stop worrying about shoes, get some that fit and suit you and just stump up the cash when you need a new pair.
I've only recently noticed much difference in shoes/ shoe types. Most of the time they still don't matter, except in my mind when tying on.

Personnally:
i'm a slip on or velco fan 'cos I'm lazy.
I like scarpas and sportiva.
5.10 can be tight on my achilles tendon & smell.
Red chilli & mad rock don't seem as sensitive or robust.
Evlove are OK, but smell & very soft - but makes them comfy.

As a final point, Go outdoors are having a climbing sale on the 4th. 50% off rrp.

happy climbing. Kev

In reply to Kevster: Thanks Kev.

In reply to Kevster: you should smell my scarpa's then fella if you think they cant smell bad!!

In reply to Kevster: Ditto my La Sportivas.

In reply to robdan: i used to be a dedicated scarpa man but i don't rate their current range (used to love styx and spectro). Bought some miura velcros 3 months ago and haven't looked back - they are pricey but amazing on all rock types. I thought they might be a bit aggressive for smearing in font but they were incredible!

I personally didn't rate my vapour lace ups that much - they fitted well but not that good on steep stuff whereas the miuras seem to be able to do everything!

Cheers,
peterp

In reply to peterp: I'll take a look at the miuras. Nice photo in your gallery of the route at Slipstones. cheers

In reply to beastofackworth:

Maybe the smell is me/boot combo, but lads, if your real hide boots stink, give the synthetics a go! Phhhhewwww eeeee! But maybe thats just me....

In reply to Kevster: Mine used to proper stink, but what I do is simple yet deviant.....just air them out after you have used them! I have a good pair that I use for my every-day trad (harder stuff) harder sport and bouldering.

then use an old pair for easy trad, easy sport, or anything smeary.

I like anasazi lace-ups cos i have reet skinny feet. using whites at the moment and they are brilliant! if i hadnt found a cheap pair of pinks here on UKC/wasn't a student then I'd get another pair no questions asked!

A final word to the wise: get your shoes before 2011 when they will go up loads! :/

Dunc

In reply to robdan: cheers! Slipstones is top - defo get there if you can, well worth the extra miles beyond the peak and some of the other venues are top. Good luck with the shoes - defo try the miuras!