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Northern Corries Thaw

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ledi 12 Jan 2011
Was up in t'sneachda today...alladins buttress has suffered a massive thaw, genie, magic crack etc all now black, mess of pottage was also stripping rapidly. Fiacail Buttress is still looking white but it may not survive the rest of the day. Temperatures were high (plus 3 at the base of the corrie).
ledi 12 Jan 2011
In reply to scott webster: Meant to also say avalanche risk is high...lots of debris at the bottom of central gully/runnel area. Most of the higher slopes look loaded and ready to go as the temperature continues to rise.
 baileyswalk 12 Jan 2011
In reply to scott webster:

Sods law, it's my fault for organising my first climbing trip to the northren corries for this wk end :[
 nniff 12 Jan 2011
In reply to scott webster:

No, it's my fault - I head north tomorrow evening
 PeterM 12 Jan 2011
In reply to scott webster:

How rubbish is this (Aviemore forecast)?
http://news.bbc.co.uk/weather/forecast/365

Boo....
 Tony the Blade 12 Jan 2011
In reply to PeterM:

At least the visability is good
 CurlyStevo 12 Jan 2011
In reply to PeterM:
it's actually good news in the long run, it's these stormy conditions which create great late season conditions on the higher mountains like the ben.
 nniff 12 Jan 2011
In reply to Tony the Blade:
> (In reply to PeterM)
>
> At least the visability is good

You should be able to see that pouring rain clearly in every direction



xcweather.co.uk isn't quite so down beatand has it cooler than the BBC

 Scarab9 12 Jan 2011
In reply to PeterM:
> (In reply to scott webster)
>
> How rubbish is this (Aviemore forecast)?
> http://news.bbc.co.uk/weather/forecast/365
>
> Boo....

meant to be heading that way to climb on Sunday. I'm a winter rookie but forecast looks bad for us - anyone with more experience able to give an opinion on what conditions are likely to be like based on the forecast?
 IainMunro 12 Jan 2011
In reply to Scarab9:

> anyone with more experience able to give an opinion on what conditions are likely to be like based on the forecast?

Pish, but not as pish at saturday

Iain
 Chris F 12 Jan 2011
In reply to Scarab9:
> (In reply to PeterM)
> [...]
>
> meant to be heading that way to climb on Sunday. I'm a winter rookie but forecast looks bad for us - anyone with more experience able to give an opinion on what conditions are likely to be like based on the forecast?

Be nice for kayaking on the lake How long you going for?

In reply to scott webster: is the same happening in Ft william/glen coe area? heading there next thurs for 5 days.
 LakesWinter 12 Jan 2011
In reply to higherclimbingwales: Next thurs is a life time away in terms of winter conditions, could be good, could be bad, you'll have an idea by tuesday next week
 baileyswalk 13 Jan 2011
In reply to scott webster:

sais/mwis looking a bit more optimistic to me now. Think there will be much climbing to be done on Sat?
 JamesRoddie 13 Jan 2011
In reply to higherclimbingwales:
> (In reply to scott webster) is the same happening in Ft william/glen coe area? heading there next thurs for 5 days.

Massive thaw in Glencoe and surrounds at the moment. Thawing at all levels from what I can see, and very rapidly.
 jonnie3430 13 Jan 2011
In reply to baileyswalk:

I'm heading up for a mooch tomorrow, so I'll let you know...
 baileyswalk 13 Jan 2011
In reply to jonnie3430:
> (In reply to baileyswalk)
>
> I'm heading up for a mooch tomorrow, so I'll let you know...

Cheers, be interested to hear what it's like.
 up the hill 14 Jan 2011
In reply to Chris F:
> Be nice for kayaking on the lake

its a loch!

 d_b 14 Jan 2011
In reply to up the hill:

He should be loched up for a mistake like that.
 up the hill 14 Jan 2011
In reply to Chris F: time to climb on some actual rock again! the coastal crags should be good sun/mon and bouldering is an option again.
 el diablo 14 Jan 2011
In reply to up the hill: I take it there is no chance of the Cullen coast being dry enough on Saturday to climb?
jd
 baileyswalk 14 Jan 2011
In reply to up the hill:
> bouldering is an option again.

Yup thinking about hanging up my axes for the week and dragging out the mat, I'm in Aberdeen this wk end so might take a look at Portlethen.

 Jonny Tee 69 14 Jan 2011
In reply to el diablo:

It never rains at Logie.
 sebrider 14 Jan 2011
In reply to Jonny Tee 69:
> (In reply to el diablo)
>
> It never rains at Logie. ever!
 Glen 14 Jan 2011
In reply to scott webster:

Cold again by next weekend
 jonnie3430 14 Jan 2011
In reply to baileyswalk:

Gullies are in, it looked like Mirror Direct was climbable and the highest buttress is still white.
ccmm 14 Jan 2011
In reply to jonnie3430: Aye, Mirror Direct was climbed today. The ice looked good from the coire. There was still a load of routes in nick today. There was also ice higher up and good neve.

For the purists Fiacail Buttress looked the whitest in the Northern Corries, Lochain has some fat heavy cornices yesterday (couldn't see much because of the clag), in Sneachda today the cornices looked a tad smaller but still fierce. Don't think the gullies will be good again until the temps drop at the start of next week.

Conditions report from the last couple of days in Coire an t-Sneachda here: http://www.climbnow.co.uk/conditions/

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