UKC

I'm looking to possibly head south in the spring to explore some places I've not climbed before and am thinking about going to Cornwall/ Devon/ S Wales area for a week or so. It's not an area I'm familiar with at all, so looking for some suggestions of things I shouldn't miss in terms of particular routes/ areas which are unique.
Wanting to climb Sev-HVS or so with a bias towards multi-pitch stuff, the more adventurous the better really.
Places I'm already keen to visit include Bosigran, Chair Ladder, Baggy Point, Lundy, Avon Gorge, Cheddar but all suggestions/ advice welcome.
Cheers,
Isi

In reply to isi_o: Shangrila and Lost Horizon, both at Baggy Point.

In reply to isi_o:

an evening ascent of Hell Gates on the suspension bridge buttress in the Avon Gorge is a must, lit by the floodlights on the bridge.

In reply to D Berry: Good Call. Also try Wreckers Slab at Conarkey Cliff. Its VS 4b, and the rock is not above suspicion. However, its fantastic!

Also try some of the easy deep water solos around Torbay area. Cant remember the names but there is a nice easy long traverses at Antsey's Cove.

In reply to isi_o:

Have you got this:

http://www.rockfax.com/publications/books/item.php?id=169

This should help too:

http://www.rockfax.com/databases/best50.php?area=1024

Chris

In reply to isi_o: Trying to suggest individual routes is a bit fruitless really. the south west is a huge area with enough good climbing to keep you going for several lifetimes.

Just head to Bosigran/Chair Ladder/Lundy/whatever and take the time to enjoy it.

In reply to joeurwin: Giants cave buttress, Suspense, Unknown wall, Clarion and Petros, Central Rib all at Avon

Sceptre and knights climb at cheddar

Angel eye, Joes route, The wrong Tap, Puma, Cheetah, Zelda at Wintours leap

Anything in Boulder Ruckle but particularly the Heidelberg creature, Aventura, Finale Groove and Lightening wall, although anything will do just for a taste of the place.

Climbers club direct or ordinary, central groove, leviathan and route b at the Dewerstone

Anything at Bosigran, but particularly Little Brown Jug, Ochre Slab route 1, and Doorpost

Anything at Chairladder... I don't think you cna put a foot wrong in Chair with regards to routes... every route I've done there has been stellar!

In reply to remus:

I agree,don't spread yourself too thin. Just concentrate on one or two places depending on your priorities. Whether you go to Wye Valley, Avon, Cheddar, Sout Hams, Dartmoor, Culm, Alantic Coast, Lizard or Penwith - there's more than enough 3* routes to go at in each area.

In reply to Southern Man: Well if we have to restrict ourselves and you've got 7 days I'd do something like this (seeing as you're coming from the Highlands):

Day 1: drive to Chepstow (circa 8-10 hours)
day 2: climb at wintours, mostly round the Zelda area, and if brave do Puma - got to be one of my favourite routes there... Pack up, and drive to Dewerstone. Camp nearby. about 2 hours
Day 3: Climb at the dewerstone
Day 4: either climb at the dewerstone or nip round to Brixham and climb Moonraker In the evening drive to West penwith (2 hours)
Day 5: Climb at Bosigran
Day 6: Climb at Chairladder, in the evening drive back to Bristol
Day 7: Spend a morning in Avon Gorge, Drive home

In reply to mike kann:

Bloody hell Mike - that's a road trip and a half. I'm surprised you haven't included a full list of routes in sequence for each venue as well.

In reply to isi_o:

Wreckers slab gets another vote from me as a must do!

In reply to isi_o:

Try the latest SW selected climbs guide...

In reply to maresia: Well he's a highlander so he should be strong... you know it's possible though He'll be sore for a week after mind... might need to take a week off to recover...

In reply to isi_o: Don't forget that you're running into 'bird ban' time of year - Moonraker's banned from the 1st March until the end of July.

In reply to mike kann:
She And I'm actually from the south originally but never climbed down there... Reckon I can hack it tho. If the weather comes good then it's easy to motivate yourself hey!

Thanks to all for the suggestions so far - I have a select guide on its way to me, just getting excited looking at pictures of sunny rock whilst the storm rages on the hills up here and wanting to plan things now!

Isi

In reply to isi_o: Ooops sorry... can't tell from the bottom of yer crampons It's got to be said that if you can only go to one area, then go to west penwith... absolutely some of the very best climbing I've done anywhere in the world... It's like Tuolumne meadows or Joshua tree but with sea, fish and chips and ice cream. Oh and decent beer.

In reply to isi_o:

Not been down for seven-odd years, but South Face Direct at Chair Ladder and Little Brown Jug at Bosi are routes which will live long in the memory. Few things on this earth are finer than golden granite above crashing surf, especially when fuelled by ice-cream, pasties and scrumpy!

In reply to isi_o:

Personal favourites are Little Brown Jug and Ding at Bosigran and Lost Horizon at Baggy Point. Anvil chorus at Bosi looks great too but I haven't done it yet. All at VS.

At Sev to HS, Ben and Marion at Baggy are both good and there are excellent offerings at those grades at Bosigran and Sennen. Haven't done much at chairladder so can't comment. Wreckers slab, Kinkyboots, Demo route and Right angle are all quite adventurous or have some memorable moves, positions or runouts if you fancy something a little out of the ordinary.

In reply to isi_o:
If you're at Baggy Point then the first pitch of Kinkyboots into 2 and 3 of Midnight cowboy is a must. You don't get those moves on a slab climb often!

In reply to isi_o:

Some recommendations for good routes here, but I have to say you might want to strike Sennen and Bosigran from your list if adventurous routes are a priority. Not saying these classics aren't good, they obviously are, but not really adventurous by west country standards. I'd definitely go with Wreckers', Right Angle and Chair Ladder routes as previously suggested though. Maybe a trip to Lands End if you want good Cornish adventure. I've not done much there, but have done and can definitely recommend Zawn Face Route which is just ridiculous and World's End and Cormorant's Bill look excellent. The rock's mostly good on the more frequented routes and the place definitely has an adventurous feel. Carn Kenidjack is another good bet, with Saxon amazing at HVS.
Another route that you might want to consider is Watzing Matilda at Bosigran Ridge area. It's fairly adventurous, well protected, sustained, and brilliant. It's not in any of the guides (only the new CC supplement) but it is here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=106675

In reply to teflonpete:


I think I'd feel a little let down if I'd travelled the length of the country to get on Ben or Marion - nice enough routes but hardly mega classics. To be honest, much as I love the culm and routes like Lost Horizon, it's not an amazing venue at the grades the OP is after - much more to go at once you're operating above E1.

I'd second the suggestions to focus on one area rather than trying to drive around too much - it's often a bit slower than you might expect and you don't want to waste your holiday sitting in the car. Lundy is best visited as a special trip, preferably once the bird bans have been lifted (September is good) but there's enough non-banned stuff to go at for a trip before the bans are off.

In reply to Pagan:

Agreed, not worth the bother specifically for those routes but worthwhile at the grade if you're having a day at Baggy, although you'd have to watch the tides. Depending on where the OP is travelling from, an extra couple of hours in the car to get down to West Penwith would be a better bet. Whether Baggy is a worthwhile stop off on the way boils down to logistics and timing.

In reply to isi_o:

Just looked at your OP again and seen that you mention South Wales. You need another week :0)