UKC

NEWS: Peuterey Super-integral on Mt Blanc

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 UKC News 22 Feb 2011
Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, 4 kb

Frenchmen Aymeric Clouet, Pierre Labbre and Jérôme Para have made the third known ascent of a Peuterey Super-integral on Mont Blanc.

The famous Peuterey Integral, the longest route to the summit of Mont Blanc with more than 4,500m of ascent over all types of terrain, begins with the South Ridge of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60542

 Pete Graham 22 Feb 2011
In reply to UKC News: Presumably this is the third accent of the link-up of these three routes in winter? Does anyone know how many times it's been done in summer?
 Will Sim 23 Feb 2011
In reply to Pete Graham: I think it will have been done a fair bit more in summer, but of course impossible to know. I almost find it hard to believe this is the third in winter. The French are always quietly up to these awesome shennanigans on their doorstep. But i suppose someone like Aymeric would know the people anyways.
Will
 smithaldo 23 Feb 2011
In reply to Will Sim: Is this the ridge line you see when going into the italian side of the tunnel? Just the other week my mate and I were saying how nails and impressive it looked.
 TonyM 23 Feb 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Always thought the "super integral" was an odd name for an enchainement that doesn't have that much to do with the Peuterey Integral. Heaven knows what the 'rules' are, since all the winter ascents have taken different routes on the Freney Face. Perhaps 'just' three successive hard routes taking in the summits of the Noire, Blanc and Mt Blanc?
Anyhow, no doubting what a nails acheivement it is. Lots of suffering too, no doubt! Story of the recent ascent here - http://compagniedesguidesdechamonix.over-blog.com/article-l-histoire-d-une-... - in French.

Smithaldo - The S Ridge of the Noire is the LH one in the article photo. The ridge you see from the Italian TMB entrance is the E ridge (RH one in the UKC photo). Descent from the Noire after the S Ridge is by the E ridge (v. loose and long), unless continuing on the Peuterey Integral.
 Mr Lopez 23 Feb 2011
In reply to Will Sim:

I think the 'legacy' from Casarotto is that for it to be the 'Super-Integral' it has to be done in Winter, so any summer ascents wouldn't be publicised.

Regardless, i agree that i'd be surprised if it's only had a couple of ascents to date. After all, it's not only the French that are lurking around there, this is also the home ground of some very strong Italians.
 Mr Lopez 23 Feb 2011
In reply to TonyM:

No rules per se, but in theory you have to enchain the West face of the Noire, West face of the Gugliermina and the Freney face.

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