UKC

Well as Easter is over and the British Hoards are returning from one of the most magical climbing places on earth, I was wondering what people consider the best 7a in la foret?

OK, so the obvious choice is Le Toit De Cul de Chien. And it is an incredible climb. Incredible. I'm going to go all out and say it's massively soft.. Most likely v5 in my book, just pretty damn scary! (Just to reiterate - I think this climb is amazing)

But my personal favourite has to be El Poussah. Sums up Font for me. An absolutely extraordinary position which has 2 moves which feel so unlikely. Everything has to work. Amazing!

In reply to JimmyKay:

Attention Chef d'Oeuvre at Buthiers

In reply to tim carruthers:

Sirplum de bivouac at 95.2

In reply to MattH:


I didn't get a chance to try that, gutted. I did Retour Aux Sources and Rude Boy which were both quality.

In reply to JimmyKay:
L'Magnifique at Cuisiniere is ace maybe 7a+ tho
Agree the Attention Chef De OEuvre & Retour aux Sources are both amazing problems.

Surplomb de Couquille at Isatis is really good, 6c+ standing and 7a or 7a+ from sit starting L or R.

In reply to tim carruthers:

Agree - I have done around 15 - 20 over various venues and this is the stand out one for me.

In reply to MattH:

Are Sirplum de bivouac and Retour aux Sources the same problem? Retour is one of the best I've tried, though 7a+.

Nemesis at Buthiers is fantastic, and little known, so completely untrashed.

In reply to JimmyKay:

Retour aux Sources is ace. L'Egoiste is also fantastic - technical arete climbing with a dynamic finish..!! Along the same lines (though I haven't done it), Medalle Chocolat (sp?) looks great - slab then dyno..!!

In reply to peterp: Nearly forgot - Hyperplomb at Apremont!! Superb!

In reply to JimmyKay:

my personal favourite is probably Zen @sabots

not the best "line" of the forest but i love how it climbs and pinching the nose at the end is brilliant.

if i should look at aesthetic value too i'd say retour aux sources or gargantoit (7a+, maybe a soft one)

In reply to JimmyKay:

Seeing as you mentioned this - it does get 6C in the most recent 7+8s (due to the chipped foothold).

I think Attention Chef d'Œuvre and Gargantoit are probably the best 2 7As I've done in Fontainebleau.

In reply to all:

I tried Zen, got very close. Was the only route I tried and didn't finish. Pretty pumpy number. I reckoned very had for 7a, most likely 7a+. (Was the end of a very long day so I may be being slightly bias) Great route though.

L'Egoiste, is quality! Again, rather soft. But I think the sit start pushing it into the 7a/+ category.

I had a quick look at Hyperplomb, but I was on my own with one mat and didn't like the idea of falling off with no spotters!!

In reply to JimmyKay:

Also I personally believe Little Karma falls just about falls into the 7a category (well it does at 25degrees) which would make it one of my favourites. This and Cortomaltese --> Another quality, quality route. Cortomaltese is probably easier than Little Karma tho, the latter is absolute nails, a typical bleau problem!

Somebody mentioned Le Coquille assis. I found this quality. Thought it was better from standing as the assis was sharp as hell, but still 3stars!

Nobody has mentioned Beetlejuice assis yet. I thought this was another top quality problem.

When I say 7a, I really mean 7a and 7a+! Not much difference really is there!

In reply to JimmyKay:

Apparently La baleine is pretty good...?

In reply to JimmyKay:

Yes, La Balaiene is amazing. Shame I never managed it.. sizeable drop, too.

Beetlejuice assis (7a+?). Jet Set. L'angle Ben's (7a+?). Graviton. Sale Affaire (Sablons)

Little Karma isn't 7a, is it?

In reply to JimmyKay:

It's 6c but absolutely nails!! The assis is 7a+

In reply to JimmyKay:

It's definitely la baleine for me

In reply to JimmyKay: That's weird, I was going to say Le Toit at Cul de Chien before I opened the thread. I did it a couple of weeks ago and it was definitely my favourite. Only thing I didn't like was the metal peg just where you need to get your heel. I'd agree that it's a bit soft as it took me only few goes and I normally have to work longer to get a 7a. I found the grades in Font quite soft in general. I did a 7a at Bas Cuvier called La Conque à Doigt that was more like 6a. On the other hand I found Mary Rose harder than 6a but I think that's common knowledge.

In reply to Beardyman:

That was one of my favorites, although I've not done that many. In the same area, Cuisiniere, Excalibur is a brilliant 7a and a really impressive line.

In reply to PeterJuggler:
Marie Rose is harder 'cos of all the pof...

(sorry couldnae resist: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=457439)

Favourite so far would be La Médaille en Chocolat! One trip only though so I'm sure that will change.