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My first fall and it was eight meters, yet it was 3 weeks ago now! I had a single piece of gear in and missed the ground by an inch, since then I have been totally unable to climb what i was climbing VS 4c.I can't even repeat routes that i've done so my grade is back down to just s 4a.
I'm going to stick at this and build back up but anymore tips from anyone? or shall i just keep heading out and doing this easy climb business.
I'm going to stick at this and build back up but anymore tips from anyone? or shall i just keep heading out and doing this easy climb business.
In reply to lm610:
Get back out on rock as much as possible, until the effect wears off! It does!
Chris
Get back out on rock as much as possible, until the effect wears off! It does!
Chris
In reply to LastBoyScout:
Beat me to it!
Think more about your gear placement. If it's a choice between putting a good bit of gear in, or climbing on to save your arms, the gear wins every time.
Beat me to it!
Think more about your gear placement. If it's a choice between putting a good bit of gear in, or climbing on to save your arms, the gear wins every time.
In reply to lm610: it makes you a safer climber, learn from it and dont let it put you off, it took me 3 years to better my previous climb but i did it
In reply to PaleMan: If you get so pumped faffing with gear and fall off thats not great either.... Depends on the situation, I think.
OP, I've not taken a proper trad fall yet, I'm not looking forward to it. If anything scares me, just got to try and tackle it head on (not that I'm going to go lobbing intentionally). Get back on it man, its all in your head. You were doing fine before, if anything you put a good piece in and it held, thats a plus right?
OP, I've not taken a proper trad fall yet, I'm not looking forward to it. If anything scares me, just got to try and tackle it head on (not that I'm going to go lobbing intentionally). Get back on it man, its all in your head. You were doing fine before, if anything you put a good piece in and it held, thats a plus right?
In reply to lm610:
I fell off loads of embarrassingly easy routes early on, and it built a good foundation of confidence. Just keep climbing and your confidence will improve - if your gear is good!
I fell off loads of embarrassingly easy routes early on, and it built a good foundation of confidence. Just keep climbing and your confidence will improve - if your gear is good!
In reply to lm610:
Did exactly the same thing a few years ago. Fell on an HVS, just missed the ground and was pretty shaken up for a while. I ended up doing a lot of classic VDiffs and Severes and slowly built it up. Be patient, it'll come back with practise and in the mean time you get to climb some awesome routes that you might have overlooked before.
Pete
Did exactly the same thing a few years ago. Fell on an HVS, just missed the ground and was pretty shaken up for a while. I ended up doing a lot of classic VDiffs and Severes and slowly built it up. Be patient, it'll come back with practise and in the mean time you get to climb some awesome routes that you might have overlooked before.
Pete
In reply to lm610: It's only 3 weeks, you'll get over it as one did...good luck
In reply to PaleMan:
I made the mistake of thinking the other way around, and ended up falling and breaking my heel. I learnt from it and it wasn't a bad break so i took it as a harsh lesson. I had a trip to el chorro already booked which luckily was soon after it healed so got my confidence back on sport routes. Look at it this way; your gear held, and if you'd had a little more in it would have been a non-event. Learn from it but don't let it put you off would be my advise, easier said than done though!
> (In reply to LastBoyScout)
>
> Beat me to it!
>
> Think more about your gear placement. If it's a choice between putting a good bit of gear in, or climbing on to save your arms, the gear wins every time.
>
> Beat me to it!
>
> Think more about your gear placement. If it's a choice between putting a good bit of gear in, or climbing on to save your arms, the gear wins every time.
I made the mistake of thinking the other way around, and ended up falling and breaking my heel. I learnt from it and it wasn't a bad break so i took it as a harsh lesson. I had a trip to el chorro already booked which luckily was soon after it healed so got my confidence back on sport routes. Look at it this way; your gear held, and if you'd had a little more in it would have been a non-event. Learn from it but don't let it put you off would be my advise, easier said than done though!
In reply to lm610:
About this time last year I took an 8 meter deck out with ripping gear...
Within 6 weeks I was in the Verdon, mainly seconding, but doing the odd lead (La Demand, which is trad and sport). You just got to climb through the fear... Is tough, but when your above gear n have to deal with it you'll do it!
For what its worth I fell from the top of stanage to the bottom on Friday, silly slip at the top of Leaning buttress direct, having skipped the last placement due to complacency the fall was much bigger than it needed to be. Got straight back on n did it. This is why you place gear, so not to hit the floor? So if you missed the ground from a fall, surely this should give you more confidence? Did me. And why even worry about being "just S 4a"? If thats where your comfortable, then just enjoy it.
About this time last year I took an 8 meter deck out with ripping gear...
Within 6 weeks I was in the Verdon, mainly seconding, but doing the odd lead (La Demand, which is trad and sport). You just got to climb through the fear... Is tough, but when your above gear n have to deal with it you'll do it!
For what its worth I fell from the top of stanage to the bottom on Friday, silly slip at the top of Leaning buttress direct, having skipped the last placement due to complacency the fall was much bigger than it needed to be. Got straight back on n did it. This is why you place gear, so not to hit the floor? So if you missed the ground from a fall, surely this should give you more confidence? Did me. And why even worry about being "just S 4a"? If thats where your comfortable, then just enjoy it.
In reply to lm610:
Do some sport. Practice falling. Think about your gear. If you're falling 8m and brushing the ground on a single piece on a VS 4c, you're probably not doing it right, like.
Do some sport. Practice falling. Think about your gear. If you're falling 8m and brushing the ground on a single piece on a VS 4c, you're probably not doing it right, like.
In reply to lm610: it all depends on how you look at the situation and the type of person you are. Last october i took a 9m fall onto a microwire on a VS 4c and just skimmed the ground. The wire held but i was shaken up, so got on a VDiff and then a Severe. 7 months down the line and i just climbed my first E1 and E2. Bearing in mind i havnt trad climbed since the fall due to time and other committments, the fall onto the micro installed a massive bout of confidence in the gear and my placements.
Good luck and keep climbing!
Good luck and keep climbing!
In reply to lm610:
I'm glad your gear held - you did something right there.
Get a few more pieces in where possible next time (where possible)! Get back on and practice some more - if the climb was steep and difficult to place gear on then have a look from the ground:
* Where will you most easily be able to place gear?
* What gear do you think it will be?
* If tired after placing the gear, can you climb back down to a rest or even the ground?
Most climbs have some kind of rests on them, you just need to spot where they are and learn to use them.
Happy climbing.
I'm glad your gear held - you did something right there.
Get a few more pieces in where possible next time (where possible)! Get back on and practice some more - if the climb was steep and difficult to place gear on then have a look from the ground:
* Where will you most easily be able to place gear?
* What gear do you think it will be?
* If tired after placing the gear, can you climb back down to a rest or even the ground?
Most climbs have some kind of rests on them, you just need to spot where they are and learn to use them.
Happy climbing.
In reply to lm610: That happened to me a few years ago... fell off near the top of a route and my last piece of gear ripped so nearly hit the deck. In fact would of if I didn't lift my legs up...
I got right back on the route as I knew the rest of my gear was bomber but it did freak me for a while afterwards.
Lesson learned was...
Don't keep going for the top if you are pumped and unsure that the gear is bomber!!!
I got right back on the route as I knew the rest of my gear was bomber but it did freak me for a while afterwards.
Lesson learned was...
Don't keep going for the top if you are pumped and unsure that the gear is bomber!!!
In reply to lm610: Sorry to hear about your mishap.
Inevitably people say "just get out again as much as you can". That works for some but not for all. From your post it is clear that you want to get back into climbing, but maybe go easy on yourself? Climb if you want, but do not climb if you feel to have to. Go and enjoy it, without being focussed on what grade you are at and how this grade stands with your previous form before the fall. In other words, it is natural after a hefty fall to drop your grade and be a bit affected by the fall - it would be odd if people were not! But it can take time to get back into something after an event like this - listen to what you feel you want to do, not what others tell you to do: if you are out climbing but not really into it, don't do it, it won't make you feel positive about climbing. You will return to where you werre in good time, but forcing it doesn't always help.
This will inevitably cue a response from a diehard UKC grit wraith "Nick you are wrong. I took a 420 m fall from an E8 and climbed my first E9 the next day then my first E10 the day after so you are wrong with your advice. The answer is to get back immediately". That illustrates my point - what is right for someone else may not necessarily be right for you, which is why I am advising being responsive to how you feel and not burdening yourself with more pressure by feeling you have to be back to your old grade in a certain timeframe.
All the best.
Inevitably people say "just get out again as much as you can". That works for some but not for all. From your post it is clear that you want to get back into climbing, but maybe go easy on yourself? Climb if you want, but do not climb if you feel to have to. Go and enjoy it, without being focussed on what grade you are at and how this grade stands with your previous form before the fall. In other words, it is natural after a hefty fall to drop your grade and be a bit affected by the fall - it would be odd if people were not! But it can take time to get back into something after an event like this - listen to what you feel you want to do, not what others tell you to do: if you are out climbing but not really into it, don't do it, it won't make you feel positive about climbing. You will return to where you werre in good time, but forcing it doesn't always help.
This will inevitably cue a response from a diehard UKC grit wraith "Nick you are wrong. I took a 420 m fall from an E8 and climbed my first E9 the next day then my first E10 the day after so you are wrong with your advice. The answer is to get back immediately". That illustrates my point - what is right for someone else may not necessarily be right for you, which is why I am advising being responsive to how you feel and not burdening yourself with more pressure by feeling you have to be back to your old grade in a certain timeframe.
All the best.
In reply to nickinscottishmountains: Good post.
In reply to lm610:
What nickinscottishmountains said.
When my partner suffered his first trad lead fall, it admittedly knocked his confidence a bit (despite it not really being his fault, rock was damp from a storm day before) but it made him realise he can trust his gear more than he thought. He'd fallen on what he had thought was a dodgy big hex, turns out it was so bomber we nearly couldn't get it out after.
Your gear held, you didn't deck, your gear can't have been too bad! That doesn't mean you won't be affected by the experience. Just take it easy, do some really easy climbs and enjoy moving over rock again. Don't worry about grades. You climb for enjoyment don't you? All you need is time.
What nickinscottishmountains said.
When my partner suffered his first trad lead fall, it admittedly knocked his confidence a bit (despite it not really being his fault, rock was damp from a storm day before) but it made him realise he can trust his gear more than he thought. He'd fallen on what he had thought was a dodgy big hex, turns out it was so bomber we nearly couldn't get it out after.
Your gear held, you didn't deck, your gear can't have been too bad! That doesn't mean you won't be affected by the experience. Just take it easy, do some really easy climbs and enjoy moving over rock again. Don't worry about grades. You climb for enjoyment don't you? All you need is time.
In reply to lm610:
Get more gear in. Be careful and stick with it, move on when you're ready to, you'll gradually recover your nerve though you may find it takes quite some time to get back to where you were. This is no bad thing, the time taken is allowing you to build experience and you'll likely be climbing with a bigger safety margin when you do get back to where you were numerically. A scare that doesn't harm you is no bad thing.
jk
> I'm going to stick at this and build back up but anymore tips from anyone? or shall i just keep heading out and doing this easy climb business.
Get more gear in. Be careful and stick with it, move on when you're ready to, you'll gradually recover your nerve though you may find it takes quite some time to get back to where you were. This is no bad thing, the time taken is allowing you to build experience and you'll likely be climbing with a bigger safety margin when you do get back to where you were numerically. A scare that doesn't harm you is no bad thing.
jk
In reply to lm610:
Nothing like a spot of aiding on trad gear to remind you how good this stuff is at holding bodyweight/a fall etc.
Obviously need to be sensitive to local crags/routes etc.
Nothing like a spot of aiding on trad gear to remind you how good this stuff is at holding bodyweight/a fall etc.
Obviously need to be sensitive to local crags/routes etc.
In reply to lm610:
I was going to say you shouldn't need to fall 8m on a VS but then realised you're climbing mostly grit
Maybe go and climb on some different rock as most easier grit is often easy slabby climbs on long runouts whereas VS on other types of rock is usually harder climbing with much more frequent gear and so safer.
I was going to say you shouldn't need to fall 8m on a VS but then realised you're climbing mostly grit
Maybe go and climb on some different rock as most easier grit is often easy slabby climbs on long runouts whereas VS on other types of rock is usually harder climbing with much more frequent gear and so safer.
In reply to lm610:
There's lots of threads/articles on this subject if you do a search, e.g.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=374301&v=1#x5425821
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=459659&v=1
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=874
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=426012
Everyone has different opinions as to what the best solution is and what works for one person may not necessarily work for you. That you've gone straight back to climbing is a probably a good thing but if you're not enjoying it then take a break for a bit, and go back when *you* feel you want to.
Right now your head is probably full of a fair few "what ifs" as you came close to decking which is perfectly understandable. However, your gear held and you didn't hurt yourself and that's the main thing. If you only had one bit of gear in, perhaps consider placing a bit more in future. VS 4c should generally be reasonably well protected.
Having done something similar 3 years back (I fell 8-9m, stopped 2ft above the ground going head first bouncing and breaking a bone on the way down) I still worry about the what ifs. For me just keeping on doing easy routes with good gear that I'd done before seemed to work. Initially I felt really ill at the start of climbs but that feeling became less with time and I started enjoying what I was doing again.
Listen to your head, and do what it's telling you, try to ignore your ego. There's no one size fits all solution. Make sure what you do is fun, there's no point scaring yourself witless for the sake of it.
There's lots of threads/articles on this subject if you do a search, e.g.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=374301&v=1#x5425821
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=459659&v=1
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=874
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=426012
Everyone has different opinions as to what the best solution is and what works for one person may not necessarily work for you. That you've gone straight back to climbing is a probably a good thing but if you're not enjoying it then take a break for a bit, and go back when *you* feel you want to.
Right now your head is probably full of a fair few "what ifs" as you came close to decking which is perfectly understandable. However, your gear held and you didn't hurt yourself and that's the main thing. If you only had one bit of gear in, perhaps consider placing a bit more in future. VS 4c should generally be reasonably well protected.
Having done something similar 3 years back (I fell 8-9m, stopped 2ft above the ground going head first bouncing and breaking a bone on the way down) I still worry about the what ifs. For me just keeping on doing easy routes with good gear that I'd done before seemed to work. Initially I felt really ill at the start of climbs but that feeling became less with time and I started enjoying what I was doing again.
Listen to your head, and do what it's telling you, try to ignore your ego. There's no one size fits all solution. Make sure what you do is fun, there's no point scaring yourself witless for the sake of it.
In reply to lm610:
Practise placing gear with one hand by wearing a rack walking around small boulders/outcrops at ground level. See just where you can put gear in. Try 'impossible' looking placements. All sizes of crack, pocket etc. With left hand and right hand, standing awkwardly to one side where you can't see into a crack properly etc. etc. You can fruitfully spend several hours doing this as an exercise. Also practise clipping on quick draws. See how fast you can do it. Etc etc etc etc.
Practise placing gear with one hand by wearing a rack walking around small boulders/outcrops at ground level. See just where you can put gear in. Try 'impossible' looking placements. All sizes of crack, pocket etc. With left hand and right hand, standing awkwardly to one side where you can't see into a crack properly etc. etc. You can fruitfully spend several hours doing this as an exercise. Also practise clipping on quick draws. See how fast you can do it. Etc etc etc etc.
In reply to lm610: What route were you on, it does sound strange to only have a single bit of gear 6-8 metres into a VS 4c!
In reply to lm610:
Hi I'm the "what if" link above... & since that day I've had a right journey to get back on the sharp end. First I discovered I was absolutely petrified of leading & actually most climbing in general, just tying in indoors became scary. Some people from my club went to a fair bit of effort to stop me from just packing it all in & I discovered I actually liked bouldering. Harness & ropes were triggers for me getting nervous, so by not having them I found myself moving on rock more comfortable. I discovered I actually really liked bouldering sessions alone too as there was absolutely zero pressure then. So slowly got better. I was then lucky to be introduced to a couple of very competent and experienced climbers who for some reason made my return to trad leading their pet project. Their patience & the knowledge that they really knew this climbing lark inside out helped me tremendously! So much so that I let them decide routes, etc for me even when I'm slightly apprehensive of it due to the old "fear monster on my shoulder", because I know they know what I am capable of, they do have my best interest at heart, their belaying inspire me with confidence & their area knowledge is next to none & this has helped me to move forward with my climbing again.
So basically just trust that little voice in your head, climb with people you trust 110% & just take it at your own pace. Decide what it is all about for you? Some people seem to like scaring themselves cause they enjoy the "high" afterwards, some people do it to impress others, some do it for a laugh, some just like getting out in nice areas, some like the flow of movement, some get a sense of achievement out of pushing themselves... I've decided to just do it for fun & that is fun depicted by my own criteria. Each to their own and life's to short to not do the things (engage in those that don't)that makes you happy
Hope you find as rewarding a way to engage with the level of climbing you choose too!
Hi I'm the "what if" link above... & since that day I've had a right journey to get back on the sharp end. First I discovered I was absolutely petrified of leading & actually most climbing in general, just tying in indoors became scary. Some people from my club went to a fair bit of effort to stop me from just packing it all in & I discovered I actually liked bouldering. Harness & ropes were triggers for me getting nervous, so by not having them I found myself moving on rock more comfortable. I discovered I actually really liked bouldering sessions alone too as there was absolutely zero pressure then. So slowly got better. I was then lucky to be introduced to a couple of very competent and experienced climbers who for some reason made my return to trad leading their pet project. Their patience & the knowledge that they really knew this climbing lark inside out helped me tremendously! So much so that I let them decide routes, etc for me even when I'm slightly apprehensive of it due to the old "fear monster on my shoulder", because I know they know what I am capable of, they do have my best interest at heart, their belaying inspire me with confidence & their area knowledge is next to none & this has helped me to move forward with my climbing again.
So basically just trust that little voice in your head, climb with people you trust 110% & just take it at your own pace. Decide what it is all about for you? Some people seem to like scaring themselves cause they enjoy the "high" afterwards, some people do it to impress others, some do it for a laugh, some just like getting out in nice areas, some like the flow of movement, some get a sense of achievement out of pushing themselves... I've decided to just do it for fun & that is fun depicted by my own criteria. Each to their own and life's to short to not do the things (engage in those that don't)that makes you happy
Hope you find as rewarding a way to engage with the level of climbing you choose too!
In reply to lm610: I took a fall just like that a week ago. On vs 5a about 8metres but if anything i find that now i know my gear placement is obviously good im more confident on it! I had a minor injury that didnt allow me to climb for a week but i went on Saturday i was more cautious with my moves but aslong as i had gear in i was fine. Different for everyone though i guess
In reply to Ireddek:
Glad you got back to climbing again. Sounds like you have some really good mates
FWIW, I still feel ill from time to time and freak out in weird situations. Ironically run out vdiff/severes scare the living daylights out of me whereas something harder with good gear doesn't despite being more likely to fall off the harder climb!
I climb about the same grade as I did before my fall but the difference now is that I have no issues whatsoever in taking a rest on gear, downclimbing or just backing off if I don't like something. The climb will always be there for another time. Before I was a bit too bothered getting the on-sight. Now I'd rather do the route safely and enjoy myself. If that means I have to place some extra gear and have a rest so be it.
Glad you got back to climbing again. Sounds like you have some really good mates
FWIW, I still feel ill from time to time and freak out in weird situations. Ironically run out vdiff/severes scare the living daylights out of me whereas something harder with good gear doesn't despite being more likely to fall off the harder climb!
I climb about the same grade as I did before my fall but the difference now is that I have no issues whatsoever in taking a rest on gear, downclimbing or just backing off if I don't like something. The climb will always be there for another time. Before I was a bit too bothered getting the on-sight. Now I'd rather do the route safely and enjoy myself. If that means I have to place some extra gear and have a rest so be it.
In reply to lm610: thankyou all for your tips and support, I do trust my gear more just needing to learn to commit more than anything else. A all new different kind of commitment issues, .
See what tomorrow brings.
See what tomorrow brings.
In reply to lm610:
And remind your belayer to stand just off the line of ascent...if possible
And remind your belayer to stand just off the line of ascent...if possible
In reply to lm610:
This may sound harsh, (it's not meant to) but if you were 8m+ up a VS with only one bit of gear, are you sure there weren't more possible placements you may have missed? It's usually a decent policy to try and place more pro low down; you can reduce the frequency once you're higher up, as by then there's less chance of decking, assuming your gear is good!
My suggestion is to be aware of other, less-obvious placements, particularly low down, and practice - practice - practice. Good luck.
This may sound harsh, (it's not meant to) but if you were 8m+ up a VS with only one bit of gear, are you sure there weren't more possible placements you may have missed? It's usually a decent policy to try and place more pro low down; you can reduce the frequency once you're higher up, as by then there's less chance of decking, assuming your gear is good!
My suggestion is to be aware of other, less-obvious placements, particularly low down, and practice - practice - practice. Good luck.
In reply to Fraser: ok so let me explain...
It was wet and windy so decided on a VS 4c, stepped up to center, stuck cam in high at 4m point, great placement so I move on confidently. after stepping up found my self off balance and unable to get left foot to stick(kept slipping off), the wind and now horizontal drizzle was making me feel a little uncomfortable. I didn't feel like i could remain comfortable enough to place gear so I just slapped for the top and boom I was at the bottom. a slight lean to the left got me out of my wedgie and onto the floor.
It was wet and windy so decided on a VS 4c, stepped up to center, stuck cam in high at 4m point, great placement so I move on confidently. after stepping up found my self off balance and unable to get left foot to stick(kept slipping off), the wind and now horizontal drizzle was making me feel a little uncomfortable. I didn't feel like i could remain comfortable enough to place gear so I just slapped for the top and boom I was at the bottom. a slight lean to the left got me out of my wedgie and onto the floor.
In reply to lm610: P.S both me and my belay have discussed where i went wrong and where I should've had my foot. but now when I get that "Need To Commit" feeling I bail.
In reply to lm610:
The first - and far more important place where you went wrong - was not placing more gear. Doesn't matter if things don't feel comfortable.
Change your body position. Do what you have to do - but get that gear in. If you're pumped witless afterwards and end up sitting on it, tough. But better that than trusting your life to one piece.
Personally I never feel remotely safe until I have three bomber pieces (or two bolts) between me and the ground.
You're traumatised. Your subconscious is telling you, "No!!!" In effect, it's protecting you (that's what it's set up to do).
Forget VSs for now. Do loads of really, really easy stuff, hopefully cracks, which you fill with bomber gear so there's hardly any commitment. Have days of fun in the sun, loads of 'em, so your trauma over this incident is overlaid with good experiences. Then - and only then - go back to VS and beyond.
Be thankful that you learned this lesson at minimal cost.
Mick
> P.S both me and my belay have discussed where i went wrong and where I should've had my foot.
The first - and far more important place where you went wrong - was not placing more gear. Doesn't matter if things don't feel comfortable.
Change your body position. Do what you have to do - but get that gear in. If you're pumped witless afterwards and end up sitting on it, tough. But better that than trusting your life to one piece.
Personally I never feel remotely safe until I have three bomber pieces (or two bolts) between me and the ground.
> but now when I get that "Need To Commit" feeling I bail.
You're traumatised. Your subconscious is telling you, "No!!!" In effect, it's protecting you (that's what it's set up to do).
Forget VSs for now. Do loads of really, really easy stuff, hopefully cracks, which you fill with bomber gear so there's hardly any commitment. Have days of fun in the sun, loads of 'em, so your trauma over this incident is overlaid with good experiences. Then - and only then - go back to VS and beyond.
Be thankful that you learned this lesson at minimal cost.
Mick
In reply to Fiona Reid:
"If that means I have to place some extra gear and have a rest so be it. "
The peak district mountain rescue makes some interesting reading in this regards, fairly common for accidents to occur from resting on gear or lowering on it. I think unless the gear is bomber or you are definately going to fall off, resting on gear isn't always safer, it does help having confidence in the gear when you try the lead again, but what if the reason the confidence was lacking was due to the gear not being 100%!
"If that means I have to place some extra gear and have a rest so be it. "
The peak district mountain rescue makes some interesting reading in this regards, fairly common for accidents to occur from resting on gear or lowering on it. I think unless the gear is bomber or you are definately going to fall off, resting on gear isn't always safer, it does help having confidence in the gear when you try the lead again, but what if the reason the confidence was lacking was due to the gear not being 100%!
In reply to CurlyStevo:
Fair point and I'll only rest or fall on stuff I'm pretty sure is bomb proof with ideally several other good bits below me just in case - I am a big chicken!
I guess the point I was trying to make was that I don't just blindly "go for it" much now. I probably got away with just legging it to the top of things in the past on the assumption that I wouldn't fall off. Some of the climbs I did pre accident I would have been close to decking had I fluffed the top out as I didn't have the stamina to both do the climb and place the gear. In retrospect, I probably shouldn't have tried those routes or I should have placed less gear lower down and kept my energy for placing the gear and doing the moves on the upper parts.
I've re-done most of these routes since and now make sure I place more (good) gear. On one of these climbs placing that extra gear has meant I've needed to take a rest. However, that rest has been taken in a controlled manner gradually weighting the gear which surely has to be better than landing on it from a height?
Fair point and I'll only rest or fall on stuff I'm pretty sure is bomb proof with ideally several other good bits below me just in case - I am a big chicken!
I guess the point I was trying to make was that I don't just blindly "go for it" much now. I probably got away with just legging it to the top of things in the past on the assumption that I wouldn't fall off. Some of the climbs I did pre accident I would have been close to decking had I fluffed the top out as I didn't have the stamina to both do the climb and place the gear. In retrospect, I probably shouldn't have tried those routes or I should have placed less gear lower down and kept my energy for placing the gear and doing the moves on the upper parts.
I've re-done most of these routes since and now make sure I place more (good) gear. On one of these climbs placing that extra gear has meant I've needed to take a rest. However, that rest has been taken in a controlled manner gradually weighting the gear which surely has to be better than landing on it from a height?
In reply to lm610: look for the technically hard but "safe" climbs the same as you would if trying to break into a new grade, ie VS 5bs, (or S 4b if you are still building yourself up) loads of gear and stick to your comfort zone slabs/ cracks whatever, maybe stick to small crags for a while too, eg Burbage N its low, open, un-intimidating and pretty. Dont know where you are based tho...
In reply to Toerag:
Not really, climb up 3 metres and place a piece of gear above you at arm's length (gear at about 4 metres), climb up a bit more and don't find another good placement for 3 metres (quite possible, for instance Louisianna Rib at Stanage), bin it at that point and Wahay! You're going to fall twice as far + a bit as amount of rope above your last gear.
> (In reply to lm610) What route were you on, it does sound strange to only have a single bit of gear 6-8 metres into a VS 4c!
Not really, climb up 3 metres and place a piece of gear above you at arm's length (gear at about 4 metres), climb up a bit more and don't find another good placement for 3 metres (quite possible, for instance Louisianna Rib at Stanage), bin it at that point and Wahay! You're going to fall twice as far + a bit as amount of rope above your last gear.
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