UKC

THE LOWDOWN: 9a's all over the place

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Gérôme Pouvreau on La Madone, 9a+, 3 kbThe "place" being France.
First of all, Gérôme Pouvreau has made the FA of La
Madone, a ~50m 9a+ at a secret crag somewhere in the Luberon national park. The route is a combination of two 8c+'s with a good rest between them. One of the routes is Les grand Daltons a route Adam Ondra felt was...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62727
 Tophe 18 Jun 2011
What's the reason for keeping this crag a secret?

Surely there's only a certain amount of people capable of climbing here so routes aren't going to get polished? And forgive me for stereotyping but harder climbers tend to be more respectful to the crags if that's the issue...
 anonymouse 18 Jun 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
I climbed a 9a+ route at a secret crag too, then threw laps on a couple of 9bs and went up an 8c+ backwards.
 remus Global Crag Moderator 18 Jun 2011
In reply to iamchris: Pure speculation, but it could be access issues, or it could be a new crag and they want to nab all the FAs.
 nadeem 18 Jun 2011
In reply to anonymouse: mate upsidedown backwards solo is key. I did it on christmas curry last year.
 Morgan Woods 19 Jun 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

good luck to Alizee....a female 9a for the first time in a long while would be quite an achievement.
 racodemisa 19 Jun 2011
In reply to iamchris:Contact Yann ghesquiers(?) or Bruno Clement,i think they bolted this crag...there are potential access probs(it might be on private property?) just like crag x in the peak.Locals do have a right to keep these places secret i think but its weird when sponsored climbers then self promote ascents on blogs and on spray lists.
 jonnylowes 19 Jun 2011
In reply to nadeem: yeah, but can you do it with flip-flops on?
 nb 19 Jun 2011
In reply to iamchris:
> What's the reason for keeping this crag a secret?

Rockfax culture.

kelvin 19 Jun 2011
In reply to nb: I didn't think french grades would take length into consideration I thought to two routes together of 8c+ would still be 8c+.
keu 20 Jun 2011
If climbers who depend on publicity and reports of their achievement claim ascents at a "secret area," then I think the Lowdown and all other climbing news media need to follow suit and say nothing about the ascent. These climbers shouldn't be allowed to have it both ways. It's ridiculous to report an ascent then turn around and say it's a secret where it took place. Give me a break.
 andybenham 20 Jun 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: It can't be that secret can it ... its fekin huge! If there was a crag that big somewhere in the UK we'd al know about it...lucky b8ggers.

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