UKC

How hard (boulder grade) would people say the crux is? Say for sake of argument from pulling off the floor until your hands leave the 2 finger pocket? I don't really boulder much and my local Walls don't grade problems, so I'm hopeless at these things, but I saw a blog post yesterday that suggested V6 - is that in the right ballpark (and I just think of V6 as something far harder than it is) or is that way out? Obviously the move for the crimp is maybes bit heightist, which could explain it...

Cheers,

Andy

In reply to AJM: Probably V5.

Worst route in the world.

In reply to Richard Hall:

What makes you say that? The fluffability of the move to that crimp? I saw someone (James I think) there a week ago who ticked it but said he had fallen from it maybe 40 times before succeeding...

In reply to AJM: Because it has a stupid boulder start which is completely eliminate and relies on a block at the top which is soon to come off.

Which James?

Come to think of it, it is probably V5/6.

In reply to Richard Hall:

Marshall, looking at the logbooks.

I've never really thought of the start as eliminate, although I suppose that's because I've watched lots of people all do it the same way so naturally tried it that way myself. Didn't realise there was a block high up that's on the way out - had a quick play on it on Tuesday but failing light meant I mainly worked the start and lowered off a staple to strip it.

In reply to AJM: Ahh, Hanson Jim.

Worst route in the world might have been a bit over the top, but there are certainly better routes at Cheddar.

In reply to Richard Hall:

Fair enough - cheers for the beta. Thinking of routes at that grade nearby, have you done Circus, Circus over on Lion Rock, and if so what's that like.

In reply to AJM: Circus Circus is awesome. Would be a much better use of your time i think.

You need a rock 3 to back up the peg and some bigger rocks for the top.

In reply to Richard Hall:

That sounds good - will have a think about that one too. Am I right in thinking the upper groove is a lot easier so the hard bit is relatively short?

In reply to AJM:

The route feels rather unbalanced to me; the hard bit at the bottom is eliminate in the sense that you can use much better holds slightly further out right. The crux feels at least V6 in my book. I haven't been on it that much, but I couldn't touch it without going right, and I'd normally expect to boulder out V6.

Better routes at the grade - in my opinion - are Driller Killer and Valley of the Blind. On the softer end, Mescalito and Gdansk may suit.

In reply to AJM:

You can walk up the upper grove with your hands in your pockets.

Hardest moves are probably low down.

Redpoint crux is passing the peg.

In reply to Stefan Kruger:

I played on valley of the blind a while back, but I managed to break a krab falling off it so the psyche hasn't returned for another go yet. Also I heard a rumour it's ripe for a downgrade and so if I'm working something as a potential first 7c I want something that isn't controversial at the grade. Still want to do it eventually of course since it's basically ace fun.

I tried gdansk in June and that's definitely on my list for a rematch when it reopens.

Will take a look at some of those others you mention at some point, cheers.

In reply to AJM:

Another vote for Driller Killer.

In reply to AJM: I have been projecting "Everyday lives" for the last month or so, getting close now, would be my first 7c as well if I get it. I absolutely love it, aggressive start and then more physical and sustained climbing until the very top (very much like Shock of the New). It's only eliminate if you go for a good pinch out right but if you follow the sequence from the crimp up then straight on the finger pocket right (which is what everyone does, then that feels like the natural line really. It's taking me a few sessions to get the bottom moves consistently and link all the top moves from the crux. Gets easier the more I try it. I am probably one the worst boulderer around and that's why I decided that this was going to be my new challenge. Stick with it I say!!

In reply to Vertigo1:

I'm wondering if I've seen you down there then - I've had a couple of sessions on the Remnant of late on Spy in the Sky. Both times I've been down I think people have been on Everyday Lives, and both times there's been a dog there, one someone else's with a fondness for playing catch with tiny tiny sticks and once a dog my partner brought along. Ring any bells?

I'll probably have another look at it next time and see how I get on. Best effort on the boulder section from the ground was my foot slipping whilst setting up to get the pocket, and I could do the throw for the crimp (which feels like it could go static if I get my feet right) followed by a static move into the pocket if I was starting from by the bolt. need to work on the top, but I quite enjoyed the moves and felt so much stronger on them than a brief toprope attempt on them I had over the winter.

In reply to Richard Hall:
I did the 6a on the right end of the Tsunami last night..now that is a crap route.
As someone who has tried and failed so far on just about every 7c on the National Trust side at Cheddar I would say Valley of the Blind is great, Every Day Lives and Driller Killer are good but flawed, Mescalito is a boulder problem to be done just for the grade.
Better routes in my view are Rave Party (soft 7b?), House Burning Down soft 7b plus, Gubia 7b plus, Play Boys etc.
Also got on the 7b plus in the middle of the Tsunami last night. Thought it was brilliant but could barely do a single move. Won't bother going back. I know when I'm beaten.

In reply to John Alcock:

That does look truly dire!!!

Of your other (easier) list, I've done House Burning Down which is mega fun, and I've definite designs on Gubia whenever I can drag someone willing and keen up there to try it with me. I did enjoy doing Spy in the Sky if you've not done that, nice fun moves.

Was that Ya Boo Yorkie on the Tsunami? Looks good, but was damp the only time I walked up to take a look.

In reply to AJM:

Although on the subject of truly terrible routes I think it's called Make it Snappy down at road level near the Canadian themed routes - I challenge you to better (worsen?) that as a Cheddar North slope contender!

In reply to AJM: Hey, that was me, I have a black dog called "Bruno" and you would know if he's around! Very persistent (just like his owner). I just came back from Cheddar and I finally ticked Everyday lives after a month of pure dedication (it was raining but the route is somehow sheltered from rain, I think it's steeper than it seems).
Here is what I figured during the month long project:
- Top section: Don't use the crimp at the top (after clipping the last bolt) but get your right hand on good holds above the block and the left hand in the good side gaston by the higher pockets and get your right foot quite high on a good hold just at the top of the block.
- The crux: get your feet as widely spread as possible, that would keep you more stable for the move on the crimp and allows to do the move slighly less dynamic, still hard for the short like me. My left foot regularly comes off when I hook the crimp but soon you'll learn to recompose yourself and stay on it aftfer the move.
Have fun! I think it's a route that highly rewards you only if you persevere. I might have a play on Valley of the Blind next. Send me an email if you want to go to the remnant/lion rock before the end of summer

In reply to Vertigo1:

Bruno, that's the one!

Good effort, congrats! Cheers for the beta also.

I'll drop you a line some time then. Valley of the blind is ace fun, haven't linked huge amounts of it but can do the moves - big moves on big holds with rubbish feet is the sort of average move! Give it a go!

Andy