UKC

So it's time to replace the battered old Mammut Revelation.

Does anyone have any experience of the Edelweiss Energy, Mammut Infinity or the Edelrid Falcon? I'm mainly after info on the handling and the durability - especially as a redpointing rope.

They all weigh in at 58g p/m (prefer to go on weights as diameters are only to within 10% apparently!) which is slightly heavier duty than the Revelation at 55g. So I'm hoping for a little bit more durability without sacrifice on weight.

Particularly interested in anyone who has used the Edelweiss - it's £20 cheaper!

Any (on topic) thoughts welcome, or let me know if I've missed the rope I should be getting!

In reply to Ed Brighteldman:
Hi Ed, not the ropes you mention but we have just got a Mammut Serenity <9.2mm IIRC> A very light single. We got it for mountaineering as our sport rope is heavy <and 60m> It handles beautifully and it didn't take any water on after the usual Skye downpours. 2 days of skye climbing and it doesn't show any wear from the rough gabbro at all. It wasn't cheap mind. It may not be hardwearing enough for regular sport climbing.

In reply to Ed Brighteldman:
hey

I own a Mammut Infinity and and using an Edelrid Hawk at the moment.

the Mammut is quite hard wearing and the handling is good

the Edelrid is very nice handling; as is all the Edelrid ropes I've used (single & haves) but it does fluff up quite quickle. Had mine about 1 year and use it indoors 3 or 4 times a week and outdoors once a week; and have just cut 3m off each end.

I'm not a huge fan of Edelweiss; the build quality is just not as good. My Edelweiss Flashlight only lasted 0.5 year with less use then the Hawk.

In reply to Chi Cheng:

Cheers for the replys guys but just realised the money I thought I had is actually put aside for a uni bill - rubbish.

Looks like I'll be getting a cheap, fat one!

In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/edelrid-perfect-10mm-60m-rope-p183582

In reply to Ed Brighteldman: I sent my Edelweiss back to the store as the core separated from the sheath after a couple of weeks of use.

Hi there, I have no experience with the Edelweiss, but checking different ropes t buy at the moment as well...
Mammut ropes have the tightest outer sheet and therefore the outer sheet doesn't move too much against the core.... Beal and Edelrid have much more movement and I personally can't stand that

and the Mammut ropes are much more durable than the others.... search a bit around and find a good deal on a Mammut...

that's what i'm gonna do anyway

In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

Ed, the diamteres quoted have to be accurate to within 0.3mm, the weight per metre is measured on a stretched metre so bears no relation to the actual mass of the rope. I weighed all the 15 ropes I reviewed this spring and the weight varied from what we would expect (from the g/m multiplied by length) by up to 20%

Mostly, the stats are no use whatever in choosing ropes. Also the longevity of ropes seems to be very dependant on the pattern of use. So if your last revelation lasted well for you, that's the best recommendation you could have.

In reply to Ed Brighteldman: All my ropes are edelweiss and i think they are brilliant - good handling and good durability!

In reply to IainWhitehouse:

Interesting that you say that - my new 10mm 70m rope is lighter and thinner than my older (but not heavily used) 60m 9.8mm rope!

In reply to Ed Brighteldman:

I've had two Revelations which I really rate. The Infinity is fine but significantly more burly (to use that wonderful US phrase) despite what the stats might tell you. It would be a good choice for a longer life rope I think but mine feels a lot heavier in practice than the revelation. My 70m revelation doesn't feel much heavier than my 60m infinity.

Not used the others yiou mention but I would add that the Mammut Serenity is even lighter/skinnier than the Revelation and personally I'd only use that as an alpine rope or the odd bit of emergency (or v lightweight) sports climbing.

I must be a Mammut fan...