UKC

most useful size dmm 4cu for stanage edge?

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littlerich 24 Oct 2011
ok, so funds are limited as ever and im about to start experiencing the magic of stanage properly for the first time. gonna emark on an oddessey there and need to gear up as i was caught short last weekend!!!

climbing up to hvs but mostlyt round vs whats the most useful size friend to have here???
 jkarran 24 Oct 2011
In reply to littlerich:

Which ones don't you have? If you have none then you'll struggle to go wrong with anything in the fingers to fists size range.

If you want a number: 2.5

jk
 Reach>Talent 24 Oct 2011
In reply to littlerich:
<Wild stab in the dark>

2-2.5

My size 2 is definitely my most heavily worn cam.
 Monk 24 Oct 2011
In reply to littlerich:

I'd say my size 2 was my most used on grit, although my 1.5 is also great. To be honest, whatever size you get will be placed - some grit routes only need a set of cams to protect.
 teflonpete 24 Oct 2011
In reply to littlerich:

If you've got no cams at all yet, a No.2 4CU will probably be your best bet. 1 cam doesn't give you many placements though, can you not borrow some or use your partner's?
 graeme jackson 24 Oct 2011
In reply to littlerich:
For the price of one Cam you could get a decent range of nuts or hexes. just saying.
 Jimbo C 24 Oct 2011
In reply to littlerich:

Depends what kind of cracks you like climbing. Finger cracks 1 or 1.5ish. Hand cracks 2.5 or 3ish. Fist cracks 3.5 or 4ish. Obviously horizontal break widths are very variable.

My most worn one seems to be the number 3, and I climb almost only on grit. Don't forget that hexes are a very good substitue for cams in a lot of placements.

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