UKC

How many climbs were graded HVS when you did them.....then changed.

As a starter, I have.....
Curfew on the Cromlech
Carnage and Wombat at Malhan
The Gulley Joke at Froggatt
Cock-a-leekie Wall at Stoney.

In reply to Nic Robinson:

Good call so many upgrades here are some.....

Easter Rib, Hybrid, Counts Wall,Incursion, Death Night and Blood, Tom cat Slab, Sleepwalker Phlegethoa (VS to E1)Saliva(VS to E1) at Stanage
St Peter, Dead Banana Crack at Stoney
RomeoError Cows Mouth
Lamebrain, Deadbay Crack at Curbar
Supra Direct & Only Just at Millstone
Express Crackat Buckbarrow
Definitive Gaze. Safety Net,Shortcomings, War Wound, Private Display at the Roaches
Hen Cloud Eliminate?
Wasted Time, Kyloe
Fly Catcher Cheedale
Fringe Benefit, Nonsuch at Rivelin
Emulator and Gogarth at Gogarth
Nails at Staden
Boney Maroney at Burbage North
I think I will stop now!!!

In reply to Nic Robinson: Lost Horizon at Baggy. Armorican at Craig Caerfai. Now both classic VS ticks.

In reply to Nic Robinson:

Three Pebble Slab

In reply to Nic Robinson:

FWIW, I think they're better off as they are now. The reason loads of them were HVS was because when many of them were done, there was only 1 grade above HVS. Decompression into extreme grades made sense of a system that no longer worked.

In reply to Nic Robinson: Arcturus

In reply to Nic Robinson:

Forgot a couple of my favourites..
Cow udder Ilkley, used to be VS
Limpet at Malham (yes, I actually did a Fawcett route)
Sole at Crookrise, was VS
Is Debauchery at Hightor still HVS?

In reply to Nic Robinson:
Here are a couple from Swanage
Mars (now E2)
Marmolata (now E3)

In reply to Nic Robinson:
Mousetrap(E2)
Earl Buttress(E2)

In reply to Nic Robinson: So Many Classics So little Time (E4) Stanage
Scoop Connection (E3) Lawrencefield
Sunny Corner Lane (E3) Carn Barra
The Kraken (E2) St Govans
Ricochet (E2) St Govans

In reply to Tony & Sarah:

Really? That seems like madness now.


Lol!


Fair enough, to be honest. I wouldn't argue if they were HVS now. Think The Kraken is E1 now.

In reply to jonny2vests: Ricochet due to a misunderstanding (it originally finished up Flanker) It was originaly graded VS, I remember Jon de Montjoye working very hard on an early ascent (much more difficult then the cracks were full of mud)I led it a little later and found it desperate much harder than The Arrow (See the 1982 Supplement)

In reply to Nic Robinson:

Dexterity - Millstone

In reply to Nic Robinson:
Barbarian, The Plum, Leg Slip - Tremadoc
Praying Mantis - Goat Crag
Agony - Castle Rock
North Buttress, Shepherds
Tennis Show Direct - Idwal

Quite a few in Northumberland but I'm not entirely surprised about that! The best for me was Mercenary at Linshiels - HVS to E4 in a single bound. (OK I know it has a direct start now but that top wall was never less than 5c!)

In reply to Fredt:

If you whimp out left, it still does.

In reply to Tony & Sarah:

Were there harder moves on it when it went the wrong way then? I've always thought Flanker was a sandbag at VS. For Pembroke anyway.

Only did Ricochet recently, good but a bit unbalanced.

In reply to Nic Robinson:

Saliva, Stanage.
Tennis Shoe Direct, Idwal (Noooo way it's E1!!)

In reply to Nic Robinson:

Ask Jim Perrin - seems to be the theme of his latest piece

In reply to Bulls Crack:

I don't think Mr Perrin knows which climbs you have done, or which have subsequently gone up a grade or two.

And I forgot Hovis at Crookrise.

In reply to Nic Robinson:
Sour Grapes Earl
Rectum Rift
Gypsy
Virgin
Jokers Wall
True Grit
The Knock

In reply to Little Rascal: I'm sure I remember Tennis Shoe Direct being Hard Severe (maybe mild VS in the damp) - lovely little slab romp all the same.


However, I would have thought modern gear would mean routes getting downgraded (unless of course they were deliberately undergraded - Jokers Wall was always about E3 6a) not a harder grade?

In reply to Nic Robinson:

I was talking about grade inflation..if you've read it?

In reply to telemark:

Tennis Shoe direct??? I thougt this was VS.

In reply to Nic Robinson: Combat Rock, which is nice because now I've climbed E1 on slate as well as on a number of other rock types!

In reply to Christheclimber:

It was HVS 4c in the '93 guide IIRC...