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sea cliff climbing FAQ

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 AndyE9 30 Dec 2011
Hello all

For all of you who do a bit of sea cliff climbing , and having to gain access to the route by means of an abseil from the top of the cliff. Could you please tell me what would be a good length rope to use for this, I guess that it is location dependent for most .. but as a general rule..? and do you leave a rope in place incase of having to make a retreat ??

I am planing on doing some sea cliff climbing early in 2012 , will be going to baggy point , Swanage , pembroke and a few others ... I have seen a 70m rope at a good price of around £100

thoughts please ??
 tlm 30 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:

In the UK, you are usually fine with 50 metres to abseil. Usually, that means that either people take a separate single rope and leave it in situ while they climb with different ropes, or that they use two half ropes, and then pull them down to climb with.
 climbupflydown 30 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9: this summer we went down south, took a 60m static with us and left it rigged up incase of a retreat, dont forget a rope guard as the static on each descent suffered from constant rubbing, leading to thinning of rope
OP AndyE9 30 Dec 2011
We normally climb on 50m half ropes , was thinking of taking a extra rope to leave whilst we climbed.. I have a spare 50m rope but was not sure that it would be long enough to do it in one..
 James Oswald 30 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:
A 60 is enough for most sea cliffs (most of Pembroke included). I'd personally leave it in place, abseil down with doubles (preferably). Prussicing up my rope would always be my last alternative to getting out, it's nice to have a couple of grades in hand over the crag's easiest route to climb out on if need be.
Tying ropes together and pulling them down after abseiling is asking for trouble IMO, I'd leave one in place for an emergency.
James
In reply to AndyE9:

What they all said ^^^

One tip...don't forget to take your climbing ropes on the abseil with you. It can be rather embarrassing if, when you get to the bottom of your route, your climbing partner asks you where the other rope is and you have that moment of realisation that you were indeed forgetting something, as you thought you might have been when you started descending.

Not that this has ever happened to me of course. Oh no...
OP AndyE9 30 Dec 2011
lol......

that would be funny to see
In reply to AndyE9:

It completely depends on the situation. Are you talking about a 70m static rope? If so then you'd obviously never climb on it, so of course you're going to leave it in place whilst you climb. If you're talking about a 70m dynamic rope then I wouldn't bother. 70m should be plenty long enough for most crags in the UK (except American Beauty on Lundy, which you need a 100m rope for (unless you fancy the character building original approach, which I'd recommend wholeheartedly)).

If I'm going to do several routes which can be accessed from the same point then I'll leave a rope in place to save time (for example at Baggy). Similarly if I'm doing a route I think I might struggle on, or if escape would otherwise be challenging (or very wet). If I'm only doing one route and it's well within my abilities , or there's an easy escape scramble then I'll probably just abseil on my climbing ropes and pull them down after me. I enjoy the added commitment
 MJ 30 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:

Have you got an old single rope? If so, use that and save yourself £70.
 Jon Stewart 30 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9: Personally, I've found my 80m rope really useful, but I think 70 would have been just as good. A 70 or 80m static rope is the best option if you're going to climb on sea cliffs regularly

I bought an 80m sport rope, for the simple reason that you can't climb on a static rope but you can abseil on a dynamic rope, and the price doesn't make a real difference. It's pretty annoying though, bouncing around on the bottom of the rope, and it's twisty/badly behaved. But since it's the only single rope I have, it can be forgiven.

I much prefer to leave an ab rope in place for obvious reasons. I have pulled the climbing ropes down at Gogarth before, but I didn't like it much and see no reason for the additional risk (carrying a rope is OK compared to an epic).
In reply to AndyE9:
Not sure where you would need a 70m. Nearly all the popular cliffs in pembrokeshire can be accessed with a 50m.

There are a few places with no stake belays that require more to reach back to natural anchors, but these are very few and far between.
 Jon Stewart 30 Dec 2011
In reply to mountain.martin: I reckon it's useful to have a long rope, for Gogarth rather than those destinations. The OP's going to end up at Gogarth before long, and while I think a 60's mainly OK (Castle Helen's just 60 I think), an 80 is useful at Easter Island Gully for one.
 John2 30 Dec 2011
In reply to mountain.martin: A 60 metre is useful for Frontier Zawn - not really a popular venue though.
OP AndyE9 30 Dec 2011
From what I can make out , that a 70m is not really essential for sea cliff climbing and most can be done with a 50m but a 70m would come in handy ..

It would be a dynamic rope as I would be able to climb on it as well.
In reply to AndyE9:

Imagine the bounce you'd get hanging on the end of a 70m dynamic rope.

Buy a cheap 50m dynamic rope and use that instead if you really want an ab rope you can climb on. A 70m dynamic rope is a terrible idea unless you want to go sport climbing on some longer european routes.

PS If you are rigging an abseil with a dynamic rope, be extra careful about it rubbing against anything (especially on crystalline stuff like granite) - or get a short length of static rope to actually rig the belay with.
 The Ivanator 30 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9: One thing to be aware of when abbing in to sea cliffs is to not use too much rope, loose rope dangling into the sea has an unfailing habit of winding itself irretrievably around submarine objects.
OP AndyE9 30 Dec 2011
One thing to be aware of when abbing in to sea cliffs is to not use too much rope, loose rope dangling into the sea has an unfailing habit of winding itself irretrievably around submarine objects.

That makes a lot of sense .....
 John Mcshea 30 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:

> That makes a lot of sense .....

Not really, you don't need to chuck the whole length down.
 Jon Stewart 31 Dec 2011
In reply to John Mcshea: Only smartarses who know how big the cliff is don't merrily chuck all 80m down, get 40m of it sopping wet and then have to drag it all back up when completely exhausted. And then have to carry it around, sopping f^cking wet.
 Jamie B 31 Dec 2011
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Alternatively, tie off one end at the top and abseil down with the other end flaked into a sling or even a bag. Then just tie it up when you reach the stance.
 Max factor 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:
>
> It would be a dynamic rope as I would be able to climb on it as well.

that's fine and basically what I did.

For one thing, if you are buying a single rope to climb on make it 60m at least.

the other, is that it is normal for all parties at the crag to share ab ropes, so your shiny new dynamic single rope might get a bit of a bashing.

I learnt my lesson when my old school 11mm edelweiss rope came up against a sprung stitch plate with tiny slots. The guy who used the rope to abseil into the Ruckle managed to strip the core from the sheath.
 Max factor 31 Dec 2011
In reply to Max factor:

(^^ in case it is not obvious, 50m is too short for many euro sport destinations these days, get a 60m)
OP AndyE9 31 Dec 2011
Think that is something to watch out for ..

I would Ab down with the rope in a bag , as It is very often windy at sea cliffs and throwing it down is just asking for problems..

I once watched a guy throw a rope down when climbing in the pass , he throw it down wind took it left , think he had a bit of an epic...
 Ybot Htulk 31 Dec 2011
In reply to The Ivanator:
> (In reply to AndyE9) One thing to be aware of when abbing in to sea cliffs is to not use too much rope, loose rope dangling into the sea has an unfailing habit of winding itself irretrievably around submarine objects.


Ha! Reminds me of when I threw a whole 60m of static rope down Guillemot Ledge (which is way too much). Totally stupid as its something I was always carefull to avoid previously.

The rope instantly got taken by the sea and pulled out in a tight diagonal line from the cliff top. A lot of heaving and my body weight when abseiling was just enough to land me on the block below Quality St. We did'nt have a knife so then had to cut the rope at the bottom with a lump of rock. Two blows and it cut straight through! Which wasnt very reasuring.At least I got half the rope back.

Felt bad about littering the sea though
 HappyTrundler 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:

If you are intending to climb at Long Rock, Baggy, and approach from the path above, as oppose to the low tide approach, you definitely need to leave a rope in place. The scramble descent to the top of long rock is horrible steep grass, one slip and you will be a gonner...
 tlm 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:
I'd just use your existing 50M rope. I've never needed anything longer than that over the past 20 years of sea cliff climbing in the UK. If you set up an ab rope anywhere remotely popular, and leave it in situ, then other people who come along will tend to use it. Abbing isn't that good for your rope, so you don't want to buy a nice new rope and then trash it straight away.

When I buy a single rope, I do tend to buy 60M single ropes, simply because they are good for some of the longer European routes. However, you don't need to go out to buy a longer rope just for the UK. If the abseil will be longer than this, the guide book will usually make this clear! Don't forget, just tie a knot in the end of the rope, so that you can't accidentally ab off the end, and take prussic loops down with you, so that if you can' do your climb, then you can prussic back up the rope.

OP AndyE9 31 Dec 2011
yes will be leaving a rope in place...

just been looking at our belays , and norm we use a dmm bug for use on our single rope and the bugette for our half ropes..

Because of the size diff between the single rope that we are going to abseil in on and the half ropes that we will be climbing on , we don't have one belay device which will take both size ropes , don't want to take two devices with me if I can help it ...

Guess I could always leave the larger bug clipped to the rope bag at the bottom and haul it up when I'm finished climbing ...

or get another device.....
 HappyTrundler 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:

> just been looking at our belays , and norm we use a dmm bug for use on our single rope and the bugette for our half ropes..

> we don't have one belay device which will take both size ropes , don't want to take two devices with me if I can help it ...


I've got one of those DMM bugs, I use it for 9 mil and 11 mil, no problem, so you do have a belay device that works perfectly well on both ropes, if it is really steep I just clip an extra crab in, that works really well...

I certainly wouldn't bother with a 70m rope, you will hardly ever need it...

 climbingpixie 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:

I agree with what others have said, just use your 50m single to ab on and leave it in place. Don't buy a brand new 70m dynamic rope just to ab on!!!

FWIW I have a chunky 50m single that I use to ab in to sea cliffs, as well as for UK redpointing/indoor climbing (we have a nice skinny 70m for Euro sport). On the rare occasion my single isn't long enough to get me to the bottom of a route I've attached a krab to the bottom then abbed off my climbing ropes. And I use my ATC on my single and my halves so don't bother taking more than one belay device.
 James Oswald 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:
Sometimes on scary steep abseils (E.g. Mother Carey's), it's reassuring as you abseil over the edge to tie a overhand knot in the rope just in case you slip.
 tlm 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:

why can't you use the bug on your half ropes?
 Rog Wilko 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9: As far as I can see no one has mentioned the fact that the anchors are not always conveniently placed, and you either need masses of long slings to get your abbing-off-screw-gate to the right place, hanging over the edge of the cliff (if intending to pull your climbing ropes down after you this is essential). Alternatively, if you have a good long (pensioned-off?) sport rope to leave in place, you probably can use the excess rope for linking up your three anchor points. Fortunately, for most popular sea cliff 50m is far more than you need (although there are plenty of exceptions to this).
 Chris Shorter 31 Dec 2011
In reply to Jon Stewart:
> .......an 80 is useful at Easter Island Gully for one.

If you needed this, I presume you didn't stroll down the "path" to the top of Supercrack and do the 40m abseil from there, as we did in Old Skool days? I haven't been there for years, so the path might not be quite what it used to be - mind you, it always was a bit exposed.
In reply to HappyTrundler:
> (In reply to AndyE9)
>
> If you are intending to climb at Long Rock, Baggy, and approach from the path above, as oppose to the low tide approach, you definitely need to leave a rope in place. The scramble descent to the top of long rock is horrible steep grass, one slip and you will be a gonner...

I've heard this said many times. But I've been there twice and happily scrambled down without a rope. It's no worse than the approach to many sea cliffs really, is it?
OP AndyE9 31 Dec 2011
the bug gets a bit slick on 8.6mm ropes , I would feel safer especially for when my daughter is abbing off, having something a bit more grippy.....

I have a 50m sports rope, for what people are saying is that 50m will do but longer is better.. I wish I had bought 60m ropes but I didn't know back then...
 James Oswald 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:
> the bug gets a bit slick on 8.6mm ropes , I would feel safer especially for when my daughter is abbing off, having something a bit more grippy.....
>

If you're (possibly quite rightly) worried about your daughter then abseil down first and hold the rope as she abseils. If you see her slip jump backwards bringing the rope tight - she will then stop.
OP AndyE9 31 Dec 2011
That is a option , she is very competent and is confident making decants , its just when we have used the bug on the smaller ropes it gets a bit slick...

think its right on the lower limit , just ordered a reverso 3 as they look like the are good with all ropes, and have the guide feature , thought I might give that ago...

 tlm 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:
> I have a 50m sports rope, for what people are saying is that 50m will do but longer is better.. I wish I had bought 60m ropes but I didn't know back then...

50 is fine in the UK and is lighter to lug around. It's only when climbing abroad that you need a longer rope, so actually I would say that you bought the right rope for you at the time.

 HappyTrundler 31 Dec 2011
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to HappyTrundler)
> [...]
>
> I've heard this said many times. But I've been there twice and happily scrambled down without a rope. It's no worse than the approach to many sea cliffs really, is it?

I've been to many sea cliffs, and it is a lot worse than most approaches, any trace of wetness in the grass and you slipped, and you would go all the way....he said he was concerned about his daughter abseiling, I wouldn't let my kids near it without a safety rope...

OP AndyE9 31 Dec 2011
In reply to HappyTrundler:
> (In reply to victim of mathematics)
> [...]
>
> I've been to many sea cliffs, and it is a lot worse than most approaches, any trace of wetness in the grass and you slipped, and you would go all the way....he said he was concerned about his daughter abseiling, I wouldn't let my kids near it without a safety rope..


I can appreciate that , but it really is more to do with skill dependent than age , I wouldn't let my wife anywhere close , but my daughter ... well she climbs well above her age , she is as able if not more than most adults..

my concern was not with her abseiling but was with the belay device being a little slick as it is on the lower limit for my half rope, the bug would almost certainly be fine with our half ropes, but if we are able to use a better more suitable device then that has to be better ?


 HappyTrundler 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9:

As I said, clip another crab into your harness loop and the abseil loop, it will give a bit more friction and make it comfortable...
 Martin Haworth 31 Dec 2011
In reply to AndyE9: I use a reverso all the time, often on 8mm ropes and it is fine, really rate them especially for multi-pitch. I assume you/your daughter will be using a prussik loop as a back up when abseiling.
 Julian Wedd 03 Jan 2012
In reply to AndyE9:

Somebody might have mentioned prusik loops for sea-cliff climbing. If it hasn't been already stated it's worth saying "Don't leave the cliff top without a pair of prusiks, and know how to use them."

I've done a few routes on sea cliffs without them and known that if I or my partner came off we'd have a lot of unnecessary bother to deal with.

 ericinbristol 03 Jan 2012
In reply to AndyE9:

Here's the relevant excerpt from this fantastic witty article:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=37

"SEA CLIFFS
1.When abbing in to sea cliffs and carrying a rope, it's a good idea to knot it more tightly than usual.
2.Besides loose ropes, the sea also like to eat cameras. But you can claim them both on your household insurance.
3.Insurance companies get confused when you put "Stance on the second pitch of abseil" in the box asking "Where were you at the time of loss" in the household contents claim form.
4.On tidal cliffs, do the low-tide climbs when the tide is going out and the non-tidal ones when it's coming in, rather than vice-versa.
5.Tide tables are always in GMT but between April and October your watch isn't.
6.If your prussik loops are always clipped to your harness you won't ever find yourself at the bottom of a cliff in the dark with the tide coming in wishing you'd taken them out of your rucksack and clipped them to your harness this morning.
7.Seagulls know what a vendetta is and will happily give demonstrations.
8."Following the chalk" can be a mistake on cliffs which are frequented by seabirds.
9.Take care how close you get to the sea when having a pee, especially if there's a swell.
10.Left alone, uncoiled ropes always seek out hidden pools of water."


 GrahamD 03 Jan 2012
In reply to AndyE9:

My mate has an 80m static rope. The only places where 80m made a difference over 50m were Mewesford (Pembroke), Chapel Point (Pembroke - yhe abseil is much shorter but the anchors were well back), Lundy and in particular American Beauty, Mercury area at Carn Gowla - can't think of any others but I'm sure there are North of the border.

Places like Swanage and Baggy its nice to have an in situ rope simply because it makes doing multiple routes easier. Prusicing up the abseil rope is fine in theory but in practice I think I'd rather swim than try a free hanging climb !

If you want an out and out abseil rope, get a caving rope from a caving shop - they har harder wearing than climbing ropes, they do not stretch anywhere near as much and they are much cheaper.
 Jon Stewart 03 Jan 2012
In reply to Chris Shorter:
> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
> [...]
>
> If you needed this, I presume you didn't stroll down the "path" to the top of Supercrack and do the 40m abseil from there, as we did in Old Skool days?

I looked down the 'path' and instead of the 'stroll' I opted for an ab down to the top of Supercrack (which looks superb, one for 2012), then down. Wished I'd done the 80m from the the block.


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