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Now that I have kicked myself up the arse to do things differently, I've broken out the fingerboard (actually rock rings) and will slowly build it into my 'training' regime, such as it is (until recently it's been a 'maintenance' regime). However, last time I really got into that sort of stuff, I ended up with a serious A2 pulley injury (two actually) and I am now quite a few years older so don't want to overdo it if I can avoid it. Regardless as to my desire to climb harder, I'd rather be climbing at my current grade than having a 6 month enforced lay-off....
Ignoring 'real' climbing outside, I go to the wall about twice a week on average and gym (I hr+ mix of CV and weights) maybe 2 or 3 times dependent upon work commitments. So my typical week when I'm not overtaken by work events and I'm keen might look like the following:
Mon - Gym
Tues - Wall
Wed - Gym
Thurs - Wall
Fri - Gym or Rest day
Sat/Sun - either get outside climbing/walking or stick in another wall session
Now quite often I will miss a gym session and sometimes a wall session falls by the wayside. Typing this I realise how much I focus my training towards the weekdays - largely as I keep the weekends free to get out for some real climbing/walking/family duties etc, but the intensity levels aren't the same as whilst training.
How safe is it to stick in a couple of fingerboard/rock ring sessions and how much rest should I be taking inbetween those and wall sessions? I'm also trying to make my wall sessions more focussed (harder).
Helpful comments please rather than telling me I'm clearly doing something wrong if I'm doing that much training and can only climb V Diff...
Ignoring 'real' climbing outside, I go to the wall about twice a week on average and gym (I hr+ mix of CV and weights) maybe 2 or 3 times dependent upon work commitments. So my typical week when I'm not overtaken by work events and I'm keen might look like the following:
Mon - Gym
Tues - Wall
Wed - Gym
Thurs - Wall
Fri - Gym or Rest day
Sat/Sun - either get outside climbing/walking or stick in another wall session
Now quite often I will miss a gym session and sometimes a wall session falls by the wayside. Typing this I realise how much I focus my training towards the weekdays - largely as I keep the weekends free to get out for some real climbing/walking/family duties etc, but the intensity levels aren't the same as whilst training.
How safe is it to stick in a couple of fingerboard/rock ring sessions and how much rest should I be taking inbetween those and wall sessions? I'm also trying to make my wall sessions more focussed (harder).
Helpful comments please rather than telling me I'm clearly doing something wrong if I'm doing that much training and can only climb V Diff...
In reply to JonC: Ha ha. Your last sentence spoiled my 'why train so much if you're 'only' climbing up to E2?' post. And, I'm not being funny, just that I've hardly done any climbing-specific training for the last two years and am still happily climbing pretty much at the same middling standard I did before (when I used the rock rings, fingerboards, climbing walls). So yes maybe us middle-aged middling muddlers need more specialized (perhaps less frequent) training sessions that concentrate on our weak points?
In reply to Marc C:
Well, if you've read some of my other recent posts, most people have told me I have to put more effort in if I want to reach this year's goal of ticking some classic E2's such as Left Wall... Maybe they were all youngsters giving the advice... My current f6b (max) sports onsight isn't quite enough it seems (and I would tend to agree) so I am trying to give myself more leeway.
As you say, though, I am trying to find ways to do it rather than go training mad. I've always (well, last 20 years) been a keen gym person so that's just part of my routine. The wall I do enjoy (strange I know given my trad background) and is partly social but I am trying to give it more focus. The rock rings are to try to make some gains in a similar way to throwing in some bouldering (and they were sitting there in the cupboard sneering at me). I am planning not to do really intensive sessions but just some relatively easy dead hangs, pull ups on edges etc to build up some more endurance.
You could well be right though about less frequent more specialised training. I think it's over-training which caused me problems before.
Well, if you've read some of my other recent posts, most people have told me I have to put more effort in if I want to reach this year's goal of ticking some classic E2's such as Left Wall... Maybe they were all youngsters giving the advice... My current f6b (max) sports onsight isn't quite enough it seems (and I would tend to agree) so I am trying to give myself more leeway.
As you say, though, I am trying to find ways to do it rather than go training mad. I've always (well, last 20 years) been a keen gym person so that's just part of my routine. The wall I do enjoy (strange I know given my trad background) and is partly social but I am trying to give it more focus. The rock rings are to try to make some gains in a similar way to throwing in some bouldering (and they were sitting there in the cupboard sneering at me). I am planning not to do really intensive sessions but just some relatively easy dead hangs, pull ups on edges etc to build up some more endurance.
You could well be right though about less frequent more specialised training. I think it's over-training which caused me problems before.
In reply to JonC: I agree and admire your dedication. I'm sort of in the same place, aspiration-wise. I just think that (rather than throwing every training modality into the mix and hoping for improvement) we need to make our training more specific to what we want to do - e.g. by identifying what the climbs we aspire to require and what our weaknesses are. Hopefully others will be able to give you sound advice - not necessarily 20 year-olds! NB When I was young all I did training-wise was a few traverses along the window frames of the local school, and across the doors of my stepDad's garage, plus some pull-ups on my little sister's swing (!) and I managed E1s/E2s.
In reply to Marc C:
Well I agree with managing E1/2's with minimal training. Other than 1-2 not v focussed wall sessions each week that's where I've been for the last 10-15 years, other than a drop off the last couple of years (partly due to not pushing myself). I can still manage E1 and I'm sure I could find some E2's which suited me if I tried. However, I really want to get to solid E2 which I think is where I need to be to enjoy some of the big classics. You might laugh at your 'rudimentary' training regime (swings and ledges... strange boy) but it's still training. I'm just trying to find something more structured.
That's almost my question really. How much benefit would I get from slotting in only one or two fingerboard sessions each week on days when I'm not doing anything else. Worth it?
Well I agree with managing E1/2's with minimal training. Other than 1-2 not v focussed wall sessions each week that's where I've been for the last 10-15 years, other than a drop off the last couple of years (partly due to not pushing myself). I can still manage E1 and I'm sure I could find some E2's which suited me if I tried. However, I really want to get to solid E2 which I think is where I need to be to enjoy some of the big classics. You might laugh at your 'rudimentary' training regime (swings and ledges... strange boy) but it's still training. I'm just trying to find something more structured.
That's almost my question really. How much benefit would I get from slotting in only one or two fingerboard sessions each week on days when I'm not doing anything else. Worth it?
In reply to JonC: yes i would suggest 1 (2 at most) fingerboard sessions per week combined with endurance bouldering circuits at the wall should really get you up to solid E2/3
In reply to JonC:
Yes.
Its hard to keep at it as most find it dull and the gains are usually slow in coming.
Few tips:
You will have to find a structure that stimulates a response using different hang lengths, rest lengths, combos of fingers, grip types, weight-on, weight-off etc. Note down what you did in a session then try to beat it next time. With rock rings I find a more natural way to use them is to hang them both off a single point so they are back-to-back and do the hangs side-on with elbows almost touching. If you have dumbells or a barbell throw in some finger rolls too. Hydrate and warm up till your fingers are recruiting properly. Ration, but dont ignore, full crimps. Use a metronome or some such to count seconds rather than your head or a clock and an alarm for rests between sets. Dont hang for less than 4 secs or more than 30secs. Dont beast yourself in the session - stop strong. Execrise some of the bigger muscle groups afterwards such as core/squats/pullups to stimulate a bigger hormonal get-stronger response.
> That's almost my question really. How much benefit would I get from slotting in only one or two fingerboard sessions each week on days when I'm not doing anything else. Worth it?
Yes.
Its hard to keep at it as most find it dull and the gains are usually slow in coming.
Few tips:
You will have to find a structure that stimulates a response using different hang lengths, rest lengths, combos of fingers, grip types, weight-on, weight-off etc. Note down what you did in a session then try to beat it next time. With rock rings I find a more natural way to use them is to hang them both off a single point so they are back-to-back and do the hangs side-on with elbows almost touching. If you have dumbells or a barbell throw in some finger rolls too. Hydrate and warm up till your fingers are recruiting properly. Ration, but dont ignore, full crimps. Use a metronome or some such to count seconds rather than your head or a clock and an alarm for rests between sets. Dont hang for less than 4 secs or more than 30secs. Dont beast yourself in the session - stop strong. Execrise some of the bigger muscle groups afterwards such as core/squats/pullups to stimulate a bigger hormonal get-stronger response.
In reply to shark:
Thanks - interesting.
I did a session last night after a lot of CV and sone light weights at the gym so was hopefully warmed up properly.
However, one thing I noticed was that, with deadhangs, I didn't get pumped, I just found my contact strength going after (say) 15 secs on a medium edge. Rather than drop off (which I gather can cause injury) I lowered off in control at the point I was almost done. However, is the lack of any real pump normal? Sorry, basic question.
Thanks - interesting.
I did a session last night after a lot of CV and sone light weights at the gym so was hopefully warmed up properly.
However, one thing I noticed was that, with deadhangs, I didn't get pumped, I just found my contact strength going after (say) 15 secs on a medium edge. Rather than drop off (which I gather can cause injury) I lowered off in control at the point I was almost done. However, is the lack of any real pump normal? Sorry, basic question.
In reply to JonC:
http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2009/10/19/hangboard-training-for-finger-s...
"The goal is to gain strength, not to get pumped! Rest 30 seconds to one minute between sets. At first it may seem easy, but as you advance, you’ll feel the need for this rest. Remember that fatigue has no place in strength training."
You can train power endurance on a fingerboard i.e. getting pumped by using a chair that is positioned far enough away from you that it is still hard but close enough that you build a pump rather than run out of power.
However most climbing wads believe that it's all about the power anyway.
http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2009/10/19/hangboard-training-for-finger-s...
"The goal is to gain strength, not to get pumped! Rest 30 seconds to one minute between sets. At first it may seem easy, but as you advance, you’ll feel the need for this rest. Remember that fatigue has no place in strength training."
You can train power endurance on a fingerboard i.e. getting pumped by using a chair that is positioned far enough away from you that it is still hard but close enough that you build a pump rather than run out of power.
However most climbing wads believe that it's all about the power anyway.
In reply to JonC:
In regards to sport climbing performance we have the same goals, I aim to sort out my poor trad grade after I have ticked 7a.
I have made big gains in the last few months and got within two moves of ticking a 7a at Cheddar on the weekend.
The main advice I can give is:
1) structured bouldering sessions are excellent for improving but if you can't deal with bouldering then switch to redpointing. It is basically the same thing; trying something that is too hard for you and slowly improving until you get it.
Sometimes people get blinded by the terms and boxes we create, view climbing from an outside perspective and the idea of people complaining about not getting any better when they only try once is almost comical.
2) To get better you have to want the fight not just the prize. You have to enjoy the set backs and the training and the falling off almost more than the success. This is what held me back. I thought to be a good climber meant finding everything easy. Crap climbers find climbs easy because they are not pushing themselves.
It's not going to be easy but that's ok because that's what you want.
In regards to sport climbing performance we have the same goals, I aim to sort out my poor trad grade after I have ticked 7a.
I have made big gains in the last few months and got within two moves of ticking a 7a at Cheddar on the weekend.
The main advice I can give is:
1) structured bouldering sessions are excellent for improving but if you can't deal with bouldering then switch to redpointing. It is basically the same thing; trying something that is too hard for you and slowly improving until you get it.
Sometimes people get blinded by the terms and boxes we create, view climbing from an outside perspective and the idea of people complaining about not getting any better when they only try once is almost comical.
2) To get better you have to want the fight not just the prize. You have to enjoy the set backs and the training and the falling off almost more than the success. This is what held me back. I thought to be a good climber meant finding everything easy. Crap climbers find climbs easy because they are not pushing themselves.
It's not going to be easy but that's ok because that's what you want.
In reply to JonC:
Lack of pump is totally normal. You may feel like you done nothing after a session - until you try to hang a hold!
Rather than do 15 secs to failure try and do something like 4secs hang, 4 secs rest, 8 secs hang, 4secs rest 12 secs hang. This forms a set. Try and have enough rest between sets to recover decently.
Another popular set structure is "repeaters". An example is 4 x 8 sec hangs with 4 secs rest done 4 times with I min rests between sets. Take 5-10 mins off before doing the next exercise.
I use the above two structures for my session which has about 90 hangs in total which I was doing once a week.
Others have found a 30 sec on 30sec off exercise works really well for endurance/recovery. That would probably get you pumped !
You need to experiment with what combination of fingers on what holds mean you can just complete the exercises. Weight off using pulley, etrier and weights works really well as you can reduce weight with sessions as you get stronger.
Lack of pump is totally normal. You may feel like you done nothing after a session - until you try to hang a hold!
Rather than do 15 secs to failure try and do something like 4secs hang, 4 secs rest, 8 secs hang, 4secs rest 12 secs hang. This forms a set. Try and have enough rest between sets to recover decently.
Another popular set structure is "repeaters". An example is 4 x 8 sec hangs with 4 secs rest done 4 times with I min rests between sets. Take 5-10 mins off before doing the next exercise.
I use the above two structures for my session which has about 90 hangs in total which I was doing once a week.
Others have found a 30 sec on 30sec off exercise works really well for endurance/recovery. That would probably get you pumped !
You need to experiment with what combination of fingers on what holds mean you can just complete the exercises. Weight off using pulley, etrier and weights works really well as you can reduce weight with sessions as you get stronger.
In reply to JonC: I cant advise you on training frequencies but I would lay off too much training at our sort of age. Recovery definately takes longer. Like you I started seriously climbing quite late am still improving (slowly). My current regime is Mon: Pulllup pyramid on flat hold (top of landing from stairs), thursday sport or bouldering. Saturday trad. It seems about right for me.
My advice is Keep your weight down and concentrate your trad sessions on technique:- Foot placement, slick gear, good rests, move planning , commitment and confidence . All these things can be conciously practiced on easier routes. the harder routes then just happen because you see the climb, want to do it and do it!
My advice is Keep your weight down and concentrate your trad sessions on technique:- Foot placement, slick gear, good rests, move planning , commitment and confidence . All these things can be conciously practiced on easier routes. the harder routes then just happen because you see the climb, want to do it and do it!
1
In reply to JonC: Jon there's some ideas and plans in this handout, could be of interest. And, yes training your fingers/fingerboard is good thing, a very good thing, stronger fingers mean you can hang smaller holds, bigger holds become easier to hang thus moves become easier and the route becomes easier... you'll be up the cromlech, sticking your foot on that smear & laybacking that top crack in no time.
http://www.pdf-archive.com/2011/08/04/crusher-holds-handout-3-5mb/
http://www.pdf-archive.com/2011/08/04/crusher-holds-handout-3-5mb/
In reply to Paul R:
Well, yes, and if I could work out which of those files I could download without it being some spurious software (of good or bad intent) I might.
Well, yes, and if I could work out which of those files I could download without it being some spurious software (of good or bad intent) I might.
In reply to JonC: Its all good mate, they are only pdfs and all legit.
In reply to JonC:
Just a thought: might you not be better off with ditching the gym a bit and having one more wall session, and making your wall trips more focussed? I'm not saying don't do the fingerboarding btw...
Just a thought: might you not be better off with ditching the gym a bit and having one more wall session, and making your wall trips more focussed? I'm not saying don't do the fingerboarding btw...
In reply to seankenny:
Thanks for the thought. I am switching that way a bit anyway as I have upped my wall visits to 2 or even 3 times a week on the odd occasion and I have in reality cut out some of my gym visits. So, yes, I agree. Whilst have had some improvement; it's not been as much as I'd hoped. That said, I probably just wasn't using my wall time effectively or putting enough real effort in.
Last night at the wall I was cranking out quite a few 6b's/6b+'s on the lead (to failure eventually) and feel so knackered today I'm having a total day of rest. As Chris said above, being a little older than some on here, I do try to listen to what my body is telling me and am quite conscious about recovery and injuries. I suppose partly why I was managing a lot of volume was that I wasn't actually working that intensively. After very intensive sessions, I do need more rest.
Thanks for the thought. I am switching that way a bit anyway as I have upped my wall visits to 2 or even 3 times a week on the odd occasion and I have in reality cut out some of my gym visits. So, yes, I agree. Whilst have had some improvement; it's not been as much as I'd hoped. That said, I probably just wasn't using my wall time effectively or putting enough real effort in.
Last night at the wall I was cranking out quite a few 6b's/6b+'s on the lead (to failure eventually) and feel so knackered today I'm having a total day of rest. As Chris said above, being a little older than some on here, I do try to listen to what my body is telling me and am quite conscious about recovery and injuries. I suppose partly why I was managing a lot of volume was that I wasn't actually working that intensively. After very intensive sessions, I do need more rest.
In reply to JonC:
I need more rest too! I put that down to too much commuting tho.
I think tho what I meant as well was - what was the session *for*? If you're cranking out some hard routes that's good, gets you used to hard moves on the sharp end, but if you are trying to get more endurance then perhaps timed laps, circuits or 4x4s might be more effective. If it's fall practice you want, then did you take enough falls? If it's getting strong, were you pulling hard enough moves?
Please note, I'm no expert either. Struggling to find my way like everyone else. If Simon comes along and contradicts me then believe him not me!
I need more rest too! I put that down to too much commuting tho.
I think tho what I meant as well was - what was the session *for*? If you're cranking out some hard routes that's good, gets you used to hard moves on the sharp end, but if you are trying to get more endurance then perhaps timed laps, circuits or 4x4s might be more effective. If it's fall practice you want, then did you take enough falls? If it's getting strong, were you pulling hard enough moves?
Please note, I'm no expert either. Struggling to find my way like everyone else. If Simon comes along and contradicts me then believe him not me!
In reply to seankenny and JonC:
Volume of training is a trainable componenet in its own right. I used to train/climb 3/4 days a week and thought any more was counter-productive. Now climb/train 5/6 days a week (sometimes doing double sessions at diffrent tmes of the day) with an easier week once a month. I'm 48 this month and am climbing better than ever. Full recovery from a training session during a training (rather than performing) phase isn't desirable. You get over a spiral of decline by varying the training sesions and lets face it there are a lot of things train which are best done seperately. I also do short sessions but that is more a personal preference/divorce avoidance tactic. Upping the volume of sessions can leave you pretty ragged but perservere and the body will adapt in the end. A visit to the Foundry to witness the volume what some of the regulars (Joe, Adam, Jules, Stu, Alex) put in would be eye-opening for most climbers.
Volume of training is a trainable componenet in its own right. I used to train/climb 3/4 days a week and thought any more was counter-productive. Now climb/train 5/6 days a week (sometimes doing double sessions at diffrent tmes of the day) with an easier week once a month. I'm 48 this month and am climbing better than ever. Full recovery from a training session during a training (rather than performing) phase isn't desirable. You get over a spiral of decline by varying the training sesions and lets face it there are a lot of things train which are best done seperately. I also do short sessions but that is more a personal preference/divorce avoidance tactic. Upping the volume of sessions can leave you pretty ragged but perservere and the body will adapt in the end. A visit to the Foundry to witness the volume what some of the regulars (Joe, Adam, Jules, Stu, Alex) put in would be eye-opening for most climbers.
In reply to seankenny:
I did take your point re focussed sessions and I am addressing that as well. I've tended to go to the wall partly for the social side and had settled into a pattern of mostly leading stuff I probably wouldn't fall off. I am now trying to push myself and was back taking falls last night on hard routes for me and not holding back (much). What is missing is the endurance side so need to do laps I agree - if my belayer can be bothered (what's a 4x4 though?). As well as pushing myself by climbing harder routes on the lead, I'm addressing the power side separately (to start proper redpointing and maybe even some bouldering).
I did take your point re focussed sessions and I am addressing that as well. I've tended to go to the wall partly for the social side and had settled into a pattern of mostly leading stuff I probably wouldn't fall off. I am now trying to push myself and was back taking falls last night on hard routes for me and not holding back (much). What is missing is the endurance side so need to do laps I agree - if my belayer can be bothered (what's a 4x4 though?). As well as pushing myself by climbing harder routes on the lead, I'm addressing the power side separately (to start proper redpointing and maybe even some bouldering).
In reply to JonC: I'm addressing the power side separately (to start proper redpointing and maybe even some bouldering).
??? is this an avoidance tactic? Get stuck in...
??? is this an avoidance tactic? Get stuck in...
In reply to shark:
That's what I have been doing but as I am upping the intensity I will be listening to how my body reacts to avoid injury and if anything will err on the side of caution. I've had two hard trainig days this week, taking today off, will be back on tomorrow.
I was reading that in 9/10 and to be fair that's what I've done in the past and, as a result, I think previously I've been quite fit, with loads of stamina and could do tons of volume. I have worked on my technique the last couple of years which has certainly helped me improve. However, I consistenly fail on steep'ish 6b+ (often just run out of steam and sometimes can't quite pull off a high crux move) and I can only put it down to power/endurance which is clearly what I need to train.
> Now climb/train 5/6 days a week
That's what I have been doing but as I am upping the intensity I will be listening to how my body reacts to avoid injury and if anything will err on the side of caution. I've had two hard trainig days this week, taking today off, will be back on tomorrow.
> Full recovery from a training session during a training (rather than performing) phase isn't desirable.
I was reading that in 9/10 and to be fair that's what I've done in the past and, as a result, I think previously I've been quite fit, with loads of stamina and could do tons of volume. I have worked on my technique the last couple of years which has certainly helped me improve. However, I consistenly fail on steep'ish 6b+ (often just run out of steam and sometimes can't quite pull off a high crux move) and I can only put it down to power/endurance which is clearly what I need to train.
In reply to shark:
Give me a break, it's only been a few days since I really worked out what I needed to do I had in fact arranged a redpoint session with a helpful poster off UKC (to understand how to really go about it outside) but the weather has intervened. I will just need to continue changing my wall sessions for now to get even more out of them. Fingerboard already sorted. Too many things to work on at once...
You can tell I'm avoiding the bouldering one but (sigh) that will change too.
To quote Caff, I'm either going to be "one of the most improved" climbers this year or fall apart from over-training!
Give me a break, it's only been a few days since I really worked out what I needed to do I had in fact arranged a redpoint session with a helpful poster off UKC (to understand how to really go about it outside) but the weather has intervened. I will just need to continue changing my wall sessions for now to get even more out of them. Fingerboard already sorted. Too many things to work on at once...
You can tell I'm avoiding the bouldering one but (sigh) that will change too.
To quote Caff, I'm either going to be "one of the most improved" climbers this year or fall apart from over-training!
In reply to shark:
How long did it take you to up the volume like this?
A visit to the Foundry to witness the volume what some of the regulars (Joe, Adam, Jules, Stu, Alex) put in would be eye-opening for most climbers.
Perhaps this would be worth an article or something?
> (In reply to seankenny and JonC)
>
> Volume of training is a trainable componenet in its own right. I used to train/climb 3/4 days a week and thought any more was counter-productive. Now climb/train 5/6 days a week
>
> Volume of training is a trainable componenet in its own right. I used to train/climb 3/4 days a week and thought any more was counter-productive. Now climb/train 5/6 days a week
How long did it take you to up the volume like this?
A visit to the Foundry to witness the volume what some of the regulars (Joe, Adam, Jules, Stu, Alex) put in would be eye-opening for most climbers.
Perhaps this would be worth an article or something?
In reply to JonC:
I had Climbing: Training for Peak Performance by Clyde Soles for Christmas which has been brilliant. So, I try to do between 4 and 6 sessions a week with the aim being 2 Cardio, 2 Weights and 2 Climbing (Bouldering Wall or Outdoors). All this is with at least an hour of mobility and stretching.
The book keeps drumming into the reader that everything should be taken slow and gradual. Whilst its still hard work, sometimes things can feel easy but it encourages you to only gradually increase weight and time to avoid injury. For instance I've always been led to believe that working to "failure" meant until you physically couldn't do it any more. But in the book failure is when you can't do it with good form. Once you loose control of the weight or movement than you've failed and it's only once you've done something 2 or 3 times with good form that you should increase duration or intensity.
Anyhow the book has a finger board session and I've been using my rock rings after doing my weights, so this tends to be twice a week. I've been sticking to the shortest times and will slowly build up the duration and then the intensity. Basically its;
Biggest Hold (Top) - 2 x 45to60 second with 1 minute rest
Smallest (Three Finger) - 6 x 3to8 seconds with 5 second rest
Next Up (Four Finger) - 2 x 25to40 second with 1 minute rest
Biggest Hold (Top) - 2 x 30to45 second with 1 minute rest
I couldn't recommend the book enough!
I had Climbing: Training for Peak Performance by Clyde Soles for Christmas which has been brilliant. So, I try to do between 4 and 6 sessions a week with the aim being 2 Cardio, 2 Weights and 2 Climbing (Bouldering Wall or Outdoors). All this is with at least an hour of mobility and stretching.
The book keeps drumming into the reader that everything should be taken slow and gradual. Whilst its still hard work, sometimes things can feel easy but it encourages you to only gradually increase weight and time to avoid injury. For instance I've always been led to believe that working to "failure" meant until you physically couldn't do it any more. But in the book failure is when you can't do it with good form. Once you loose control of the weight or movement than you've failed and it's only once you've done something 2 or 3 times with good form that you should increase duration or intensity.
Anyhow the book has a finger board session and I've been using my rock rings after doing my weights, so this tends to be twice a week. I've been sticking to the shortest times and will slowly build up the duration and then the intensity. Basically its;
Biggest Hold (Top) - 2 x 45to60 second with 1 minute rest
Smallest (Three Finger) - 6 x 3to8 seconds with 5 second rest
Next Up (Four Finger) - 2 x 25to40 second with 1 minute rest
Biggest Hold (Top) - 2 x 30to45 second with 1 minute rest
I couldn't recommend the book enough!
In reply to JonC:
Four boulder problems back-to-back, set rest period, then repeat, till you've done four rounds. Pain to do if the wall is busy but very effective - I get utterly shagged out in about 20 mins.
> what's a 4x4 though?
Four boulder problems back-to-back, set rest period, then repeat, till you've done four rounds. Pain to do if the wall is busy but very effective - I get utterly shagged out in about 20 mins.
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