UKC

Cams

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 Joel Perkin 09 Apr 2012
Hi Guys, I started climbing just over a year ago now, and have been steadily updating my rack as I go and borrowing off friends kit I don't have. I've recently decided I'd like to purchase some Cam's but really don't know what to get. What do you think? Which Cams? What sizes? and how many I need?
Cheers
 BenedictIEP 09 Apr 2012
In reply to Joel Perkin: 1.5, 2.5 & 3.5 Tech Freinds was what initially went for. ive never been trully lacking, but have since added a 2 and 3.
 Stanners 09 Apr 2012
In reply to Joel Perkin:
surprisingly I find the most useful size 0.5.
I went for black diamond camalots and started with sizes 1,2 and 3. They are quality cams and have a great thumb trigger!
 Skyfall 09 Apr 2012
In reply to Joel Perkin:

Suggest you do a search on this forum; it's been debated many times and you'll get lots of diff't views.

Start with a few; most makes are fine. As said above, a fairly small (but not micro) cam - say about 0.5 Friend, is pretty good for finger cracks and I always use that size a lot. Other than that, if you are getting a restricted set for now, people do say that certain sizes are better if you are climbing grit rather than volcanic rock but I'm not sure of that really.

If you are just getting a few, maybe go for those with the widest expansion range. Tend to be a little more expensive (as double axle is presumably more complex to make) but v handy and perhaps easier to get used to when learning? I have BD Camalots but the DMM equivalent is the Dragon.

Wouldn't get anything too large to start with, small (not micro) to medium is probably best to start.
 markalmack 09 Apr 2012
In reply to Joel Perkin:

dont go for the cheaper stuff. if you do, you will just end up replacing them with the good stuff later.
camalot's are the best for the mid-large sizes. If you only want a couple to start with maybe go for sizes 1, 2 and 3. then just go down in sizes when you want to get more. The melolious master cams are good for the really small cams when the gear gets a bit thin!
 jimbo85 09 Apr 2012
In reply to Joel Perkin:

I'd recommend the DMM 4CUs, sizes 2.0, 2.5 & 3.0 for the routes you're doing.

1) Cheap (3 for £80!) so you'll be able to build up your rack quickly, and won't be as miffed or take as much risk if you have to leave one behind for some reason.

2) Light, which will add up when you expand your rack later. Also means you can carry more of them, which is a bigger advantage than the slightly larger range of posh twin axle ones.

3) Single finger pull so feel nice and easy to place (IMO anyway)

If you start with those they'll form a good basis for any rack, and you can buy more sizes later on depending on what you want.

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