/ Stob Ghabhar Waterfall

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furbrow on 19 Apr 2012
Walking up Stob Ghabhar from Victoria Bridge at Loch Tulla one sees a prominent waterfall formed by the West fork of the Allt Toaig; in fact one route of ascent/descent follows a path which goes up very close to the fall and crosses the stream at one of the pools. Does this waterfall ever freeze up in winter and has it been climbed?
wee jamie on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to furbrow: I had to get the map out for a quick look. Are we talking the watercourse running over Creag an Steallaire? It doesn't look very steep from the map. Was it long and steep enough to make a worthwhile route?
Talking of Stob Ghabhar, I found a good looking new winter line in Coire Dhomhnaill a few years ago. I went in to have a look, but it was not in good condition. Then out came the SMC Journal and there it was, already climbed - The Great Divide - can't remember what grade it was given.
wee jamie on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to wee jamie: ...my point is that there are plenty of new climbs all over the shop just waiting to be discovered
Milesy - on 19 Apr 2012
If it is the same waterfall I am thinking about then Yes. Never climbed it myself but some folk in my club have been there. Don't know if it is graded as a route anywhere though.

Richard Baynes - on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to furbrow: It does freeze up, and two years ago during the exceptional freeze in January I think that year we took advantage of it. It gave us two or three open I/II pitches but on ice which were great practice for screw placement/ice leading for one of the group, and then a very nice top pitch up the main waterrfall which turned out to be about 100ft in length, maybe II/III in standard. Ir probably froze during the freeze of last year, but I would think it needs those quite prolonged frosts.

Richard Baynes - on 19 Apr 2012
Thanks for linking to the pics, Chris, it was a very good day short day out.
Richard Baynes - on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to Richard Baynes: I should point out that there are some pictures of Steall in there...
There was a waterfall I spotted on the flank of the central nose on the Ballachulish horseshore, 046558ish on Bheinn a Beithir, whioch looked like it would freeze well - anyone ever done that?
wee jamie on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to Richard Baynes: Not seen that no, but on the east face above Gleann an Fhiodh I found this a couple of years ago http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=133293 thinking it was an unclimbed line.
Turns out it was climbed by Donald King and party a few years previously.
Here's the top pitch - http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=133061
Richard Baynes - on 19 Apr 2012
In reply to wee jamie: That looks very good. I guess that was the same freeze when we climbed at Stob Gabhar. I think I'll try exploring up there win the next big freeze.

drmarten on 20 Apr 2012
In reply to furbrow:
As mentioned above it has froze the last two cold winters (not the current winter that I'm aware of). I walked up the very path past the falls recently and I think the top part is about 20 or 25m high or so.
They look equally good from above and while climbable in winter I think I'd prefer the pool at the bottom for cooling down on a hot day.
Richard Baynes - on 21 Apr 2012
In reply to drmarten: I thought the top pitch would be about 25m all in too but when I got to the belay I had run out most of the 50m rope.! The actual climbing bit was 30m or more, and was well worth doing. There was even a variant steeper version that one of the gang top roped.

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