In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
For what it's worth Alan, I think RockFax hits just the right balance. A line on a photo with sometimes a symbol - which as Chris says, you don't have to look at - suggesting the type of climbing to be expected. What could be more simple than that.
I believe that climbers can largely be divided into two main groups:
1. Those who say they don't need or want guide books, or who require the absolute MINIMUM information. Who prefer to be scared shitless most of the time that they are climbing... as they venture into the unknown. Who largely 'enjoy' their climbing in retrospect...
2. Those who like the MAXIMUM of information so they can actually enjoy climbing whilst they are doing it. Who enjoy the movement of climbing.
I land fairly and squarely in the second group. I've just printed out an email from Neil Foster Esq. that is three pages long. It describes in great detail just about every move of a route at St Léger. Sadly, even this may not be enough for me as Neil won't be on hand to preplace the quickdraws for me, mark the holds with a dab of chalk or shout 'DON'T YOU DARE FALL OFF NOW...' on my attempt (when all this crap weather comes to an end).