UKC

Can anyone recommend a good guidebook of the lake lousie area for mountaineering and rock climbing. we are looking to go next summer. Also what sort of time is best to go for summer alpine? Wheres good to stay? we are plannin to fly to calgary and rent a car and drive to lake louise.Any info is much appreciated

In reply to Drew52:

Summer Alpine is generally best August / September as all of the snow has melted by then. Right now some people are still doing ski touring.

Back of Louise and other rock climbing routes are Late August / September as well. Stuff closer to Banff in the front ranges will be in condition earlier (Yamnuska is just about being climbed now I think although I'm still cragging in the valleys)

In terms of guidebook for the Lake Louise area you need 2 at least:

Selected Alpine climbs in the Canadian Rockies...okay but not comprehensive
Sport Climbs in the Canadian Rockies - You want the one with "Updated again" on the cover. Although it is a sport book it also has the trad stuff at Back of Louise in it for some reason.

There are a couple of other books - Bow Valley rock and Banff rock but one is out of print and so like gold dust (BV rock) the other has been promised for years (Banff Rock)

Ghost rock if you want to go in there.

Also don't forget the Bugaboo's (another guidebook) which are also fantastic.


A good website is http://tabvar.org/ which is The Association of Bow Valley rock climbers.

Lake Louise it's self is pretty isolated - just a hostel, a big hotel and loads of tourists. I would plan on staying in Canmore to be honest if you're going to be there for a while. More restaurants, more activities; more access to other places. Plus it's got more of a climbing community to check on conditions etc.

Must go back to work... but can type more later.

Mark S.

In reply to Drew52:

Pretty much what Mark said. Some of the peaks are also in 11,000ers in the Canadian Rockies, Bill Corbett and Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies by Alan Kane is also handy.

The Gem Trek maps are about the best, but if you want an online mapping function for Canada there's a link on the Calgary Mountain Club website, which gives you the government topographical maps (a bit like OS, but far poorer quality, but then they've got a lot of terrain to map!).

For mountain huts you can check out the ACC (http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/facility/info.html ), and they also have a hostel in Lake Louise, but as Mark said there's not a lot to Louise apart from a few hotels and a lot of tourists. You could check out Field in Yoho, which is 20k from Louise on Highway 1, but quieter and better for access to the Abbot Pass Hut. For camping check out the Parks Canada site, but in peak season bookings will probably be needed.

In reply to Drew52:
Canadian Rock - select climbs of the west (Kevin McLane) is also great for back of the lake cragging - actually has photos in instead of just a topo, it also covers a couple of 'alpine rock' type routes on Tower of Babel and the Grand Sentinel.

Staying... there's a campsite in Lake Louise, probably the cheapest option. Booking ahead recommended, you should be able to do this on the Parks Canada website I think. There's also a hostel.

In reply to Drew52:
Also, if you want Bow Valley Rock, it is all online at tabvar.org

In reply to Drew52:

The chaps and chappess above know more than me but when I have been (about a half dozen times) I've stayed in Canmore, either with my ex pat mate or at the Alpine club.

Not far to drive daily to Louise but there is also heaps to do round Canmore. As suggested, tabvar is a good resource and I've also had a few winter and summer partners from The grav sports Ice forum.

I'm not a massive fan of Banff that's why I stay in Canmore. I find it more relaxed, good places to eat and have a few beers and less "glamorous" than Banff but nicer if that makes sense.

We are currently in the middle of our moving to Canmore application, that has no relevance to this thread but it makes me smile every time I mention it! Have a grand time, beautiful place.

In reply to Drew52:

I forgot about Canadian rock - that might be the one to get to be honest from a climbing viewpoint as it covers a few different crags. There are lots of books detailing every climb but sometimes the highlights are what you're after.

In reply to Mark Sweatmasn:

I'm also heading your way in a couple of months. What about Ghost valley rock? Anything you can say about that as a climbing area?

In reply to Drew52:

Sorry - away for Canada long weekend. Only been into the Ghost a couple of times. Access is "adventurous" - you'll need some sort of 4x4. Some of the rock is said to be very good and plenty of sport routes but I can't really provide much more info on that area I'm afraid.