In reply to parkinaj:
These threads seem to always turn into an instructor bashing
As I see it, it is quite simple
If you want instruction of a good standard then you need to go to someone who you know gives good instruction. The issue is how do you know this, as you don't know what is good because you are new to the sport.
The answer is that you get someone who is recommended by a person who has knowledge about such things.
This means (IMHO) one of either
1) A person who is recommended by their own performance and status in the climbing community - ie I would happily take climbing coaching (and have done) from Dave Macleod based on the fact that he must have some level of ability to be doing what he is doing.
2) A person who is recommended by someone else who has experience of the sport, be cautious of recomendations from beginners who have just learnt as they may not have had the time/experience to reflect on what they were taught to test its validity. - This could include a long standing member of a club etc etc
3) A person who is recommended by the Governing Body for the sport. These recomendations often come in the form of a qualification ie a certain level has been acheived and this is where searching for an qualified instructor comes in - it is after all a national recomendation of their ability.
If you chose to go with someone other than the 3 above, this does not mean they are bad just that you don't really know what you are getting. It could work out either way
Hope all this sound reasonable so far....
As to the SPA / MIA option again I see it quite simply.
A MIA has been assessed to a higher level than an SPA, this is not in dispute. If I was paying for instruction I would want the best person for the job and therefore would probably choose the higher award - view it as a stronger recomendation if you will.
Some SPA's are capable of working above the award, some are not but again this links back to point 2 above.
To be fully open (it is on my profile anyway) I do hold the MIA and learnt alot from going through the scheme, it has made me a better instructor all round.