UKC

Hey can't find any climbing guides to anywhere in Sweden so i'm opening it to the knowledge of you guys.

Anyone been to Sweden to climb? We're staying in and around Gothenburg. Bohuslan is the place to be right? Anyone know what the climbing is like there? Sport? Trad? Bouldering? Good routes? Good rock? etc etc etc

Thanks in advance.

In reply to dodfoster: There is excellent bouldering near by but take plenty of insect repellent!

In reply to dodfoster: I'm in Gothenburg right now and spent yesterday climbing in Utby. Try to use www.8a.nu and search for either "Utby" or "Fjällbo". It's situated close to the city and you'll have 300+ routes on excellent granite. Roughly the same rules apply here as in Bohuslän so you'll hardly find any bolts. Trad is the way of western Sweden

It can also be useful to try www.sverigeforaren.se and search for Utby/Fjällbo. The site is in swedish but has some pictures and route descriptions. The guide book that covers the gothenburg area also has some brief descriptions in english for every area. It can be bought in climbing stores in the city, try "Fjällsport" which has really nice staff.

In reply to dodfoster:

It's bloody great.

http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/sweden-photos.html
http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/sweden-ticklist.html
http://fiendophobia.blogspot.co.uk/2011/07/sweden-country.html

Gothenburg is the right place. The climbing close by (Utby, Seglora(sport)) is quite nice. Bohuslan (a swift hour away) is mostly trad and the place to go, the climbing and rock are brilliant and the vibe is very relaxed. The guide might still be out of print or there might be a new one, sorry I don't know. There's two climbers huts + campsites in the Bohuslan area, useful get info (esp. the one run by Peter) and maybe meet people with guidebooks.

I would go back at the first opportunity.

In reply to dodfoster:

Ace bouldering at Kjugekull if you have transport. http://www.kjuge.nu/kjuge/eng/

In reply to dodfoster:
I worked in Gothenburg a few times. Really enjoyed Utby and Fjallbo. Thoroughly recommended. Met very friendly local climbers at the crag. Also liked the bouldering wall for that reason (is it Fabriken or is that the name of the street?).

In reply to dodfoster: Was climbing in Bohuslän last week. It seems that lots of the crags see very little traffic, perhaps the 2002 guide being out of print is responsible for this? There is a new guide available, but I believe its only for the best crags which seems a bit of a shame as it means lots of merely 'very good' routes might still see very little traffic.

The links to the guides are in this thread: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=511023