UKC

Thinking about a solo traverse of the Weissmeis. I know the ascent from the Almageller is straightforward enough but how is that descent down the glacier on the other side? Crevasses? Steep or icy I can cope with.

In reply to Michael Griffith: I would not recommend soloing the glacial descent when traversing the Weissmies from the Almageller hut. There are some crevasses, and you'd be playing Russian roulette on your own.

i wouldn't fancy it. if you wanted to solo you'd be better going back the way you'd come from the hut.

In reply to Michael Griffith:

Fatal accidents have occured on the descent

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=194645

In reply to Michael Griffith:

I have some photos of the descent at http://www.flickr.com/photos/rockcatch/sets/72157624332022851/

I would not want to cross this ground unroped.

In reply to Michael Griffith: Hi Mike, its a good route did it in 2007. Ascent from almageller side is just scrambling with a bit on snow. There is an arete near the top which is exposed. Descent Will change year to year but expect crevaces, snow bridges and small seracs and some steep bits. Is it do-able solo yes, it just depends on your comfort risk level. Wud I do it, err probably not. May be best to try and hook up with others. Dri hornli is also gud if u find a partner.

HTH Dave

In reply to Mountain Llama: Great advice, thanks. I'll take a short rope and hope to tag along with another party for the descent.

In reply to Michael Griffith: When you thinking about doing it? Date dependent maybe we could team up?

In reply to Michael Griffith: In 2008 I soloed the Weissmies from the Weissmies Hut and returned the same way but I set off early as to get the best conditions. Although I had no problems I crossed a crevasse which would be weakened later in the day and a steep icy section which was awkward in descent.
Do try and climb with a partner but as I know it's not always possible. Take care.

In reply to Michael Griffith:

The descent on the other side is indeed heavily crevassed and with now snow bridges (or was when I did it). I really wouldn't fancy soloing the descent on that side.

There's some great pics of the Dri Horlini come up on the photos in the last day or two, have a look. Top route (pure rock and 5 mins from the Almagellar hut).

In reply to JonC:
2nd the Dri Hornil recommendation. You also get a lie in at the hut once the hordes doing the weissmies have got up.

In reply to Mike_Watson_99: thirded - my climbing partner and I did a 2 night stay at the hut to kick start our start of season acclimatisation. Walked up one day, did the dri hornli traverse as a very leasurely next day remaining at that altitude, then traversed up and over the Weissmies the next day. Seemed a great way to get a concentrated spell at that altitude before pushing up to 4000 and then down to the valley. Similar to others, I wouldn't fancy the descent un-roped however. Nice hut and was more than happy to lurk around it sunning myself and reading on the day we walked up plus the large amounts of the next day that we were not on the dri-hornli.

In reply to Michael Griffith:

Done the route a few years ago, its a really excellent traverse, recommended! I was looking at the Weissmeiss from the Hohsass last Thursday, the line of descent if fairly unchanged and weaves its way parallel to some fairly humongous crevasses. Personally I wouldn't fancy that without a rope.

In reply to Michael Griffith: Had a look at the decent last night from my garden with a telecope, umm personally would not go down there on my own. Also by accidentally re-watch a program about air Zerrmat that showed some of the rescue (accident previously mentioned). Puts it into perspective, very sad. Will post a link when I get home ( currently in Saas Fee having a beer).

In reply to Blinder: Hello Blinder, my email is down at the moment so will have to use forum to communicate. I would plan to be in Saas around 2nd week in Sept if you are likely to be there for the Weissmeis.