UKC

Trying to ID a route on the second Sella Tower

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 The Ivanator 29 Jul 2012
Just got back from a few good days in the Dolomites and am keen to identify a line we climbed on the South Face of the Second Sella Tower. After descending from the summit of tower I to the col between i & II we started up the Diedre Gluck (given UIAA 4) in the Emiliano Zozzi guide; from the belay on that route I veered too far right, initially covering broken ground at around 4, before reaching a sloping shelf with double pegs below a steep corner (possible stance), I continued up the corner which went at around UIAA 5+ probably HVS 4c in UK money, upper section was steep (overhanging in parts) and sustained, good holds and pro (including some pegs) but a little damp and loose in places ... reminiscent of a Boulder Ruckle HVS. At the top of the corner I exited left of a small roof then moved right to belay on a comfy platform with a cemented ring just below the summit, so obviously the route is well established.
The final corner I took is the dark line in the extreme upper right of this image (rightmost and shortest of the three obvious grooves).
http://images.summitpost.org/original/21666.jpg
Any help in identification much appreciated,

Ivan
 Mike-W-99 29 Jul 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:
We've struggled sometimes to ID routes there when using the selected guidebook. The 1st corner is the kostner route.
I found a topo, what you did is not on there but look like another route finishes above the corner you did.

http://www.sentres.com/de/alpinklettern/zweiter-sellaturm-glueck-verschneid...

Also this chaps website is a good reference. In italian but easy to follow.
http://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sella7/sella7.htm
OP The Ivanator 29 Jul 2012
In reply to The Ivanator: Thanks for your reply Mike, some interesting links there. Still not sure on the route though.
In the photo of the climber on the second link you sent it is definitely the roof capped corner to his right that we climbed
http://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sella7/01.jpg
Any one else shed any further light?
OP The Ivanator 29 Jul 2012
In reply to Mike_Watson_99: Interestingly the Gluck and Kostner routes are marked the other way round in the Emiliano Zozzi guidebook we were using compared with the online topo you linked to:
http://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/sella7/sella7.htm
So I think I'm claiming a harder variant of the Diedre Gluck, sure it is a route though, it is a very obvious line.
 Mike-W-99 29 Jul 2012
In reply to The Ivanator:
Didnt find your route but found a site with a lot of topos (or SCHIZZI in italian). Lots on the sella towers but nothing where you were climbing.

http://www.ramellasergio.it/Indice-Dolomiti.html


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