UKC

Hi, I'm currentely in the unenvyable posistion of needing to replace most of my gear....my cams are all bent,wires with snapped strands that spike your finger ends etc Replacing all that gear is straight forward but with lots of new ropes out I'm not really sure where to start looking!
I'm looking for a set of twins - 50m - for multi pitch rock routes, light but not super skinny with good durability.
So if you love your twins please give me some recommendations!
Many thanks.

In reply to mikekeswick: Do you mean twins or halves? I'm only asking as I havent seen that many people using twins in the uk?

In reply to mikekeswick:

You probably don't really mean twins, but if you do then the new Edelrid 6.9's look completely crazy.

In reply to mikekeswick:

Mammut genesis if you want halves. Last forever and not too heavy

Not a clue on twins, sorry

In reply to mikekeswick:

If you mean doubles rather than "twins", then I would recommend getting a pair of Beal Cobra II's (Golden Dry). At 8.6mm they aren't the skinniest but they handle really well, are very hard wearing and not expensive.

If you want something lighter then I love my Beal Icelines 8.1mm, again they handle really well and have the lowest impact force I've seen for any doubles.

One thing I would say is go for 60m not 50m.

Hope that helps,

In reply to Ross Mathers: I disagree. 50 metres half ropes are more than enough for any multi-pitch rock climb I can think of. Why pay for 20 metres of rope that is more of a nuisance to manage and goes unused. Where did you find 60 metres essential or indeed necessary? I'm willing to be proved wrong so this is a serious question.

Al

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

I agree - for British multi-pitch rock climbing a pair of 50m (not 60m) halves are ideal.

I'd also go with the Genesis.

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

1.) If you climb in Scotland there are plenty of pitches which are 45m+. If you also want to use your rope to arrange / equalise your belay you'll need 50m+.

2.) A single 60m half rope can easily be used double for routes of 30m or less. e.g. most grit. Why carry 2 ropes if you can use 1?

3.) You can often run pitches together with 60m ropes.

4.) You can often run abseils together with 60m ropes.

5.) If you also want to use your ropes for winter climbing you'll want 60m.

6.) If you want to use your rope(s) for alpine (above AD snow plods) you'll want 60m.

7.) If you also want to use your ropes for ice you'll definitely want 60m at least.

In reply to Ross Mathers: A lot of your arguments do not apply to the OP. I'll rephrase my assertion. 50 metre half ropes are the best and most flexible combination for UK trad climbing. Even if 60 metres was useful on the odd occasion that would not make that statement wrong.

Al

In reply to Ross Mathers:

To be fair to Al, I'd say:

UK Rock - 50s
Winter - 60s
Alps - 60s

If UK rock is what you do, I'd find the extra 10m a pain.

(Well, I've got 60s and I do find it a pain on UK rock but a god send in winter. My 60s are being chopped down to 50s for summer and I'll get some 60m icelines for winter, jobs a good'un)

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

Firstly regarding the OP: The OP does not mention UK Trad. It states "multi pitch rock climbs" - no mention of UK trad.

I just don't agree, but each to their own. It does depend on where and what you are climbing. However, I used to climb on 50's and switched to 60's after being short of rope on a few occasions IN THE UK, especially in Scotland.

In the Alps: 60m are pretty standard now (just read the recommends in the modern guide books). In fact even buying a 50m is difficult in Chamonix these days.

Sport climbing: again 60m are pretty standard. A 50m rope is way too short for Ceuse or Kalymnos and many of the crags in Spain.

Ropes are so much lighter and thinner than they used to be. 60m of 8mm in no heavier than 50m of 9mm was 10 years ago. The flexibility that 60m ropes provide far outweighs the extra length you need to handle.

I just think climbing on 50m ropes is, well a bit old fashioned.

p.s.regarding point 4 (abseils): If you abseil with due care (i.e. use a backup prussic and know the ends of the rope) then using 60m ropes is actually safer. It means LESS time on the descent, and MORE options for finding good belays.

Cheers

In reply to galpinos:

I've never really understood why having an extra 10m of rope makes any real negative difference. It takes seconds to pull through and is barely any more hassle to loop when taking in at the belay.

Whereas, being able to link pitches and reduce the number of abseils needed(the OP did say multi pitch) are real tangible benefits.

Plus you don't need multiple sets of ropes for summer, winter, alpine etc. (I admit some people might think this is a good thing )

In reply to mikekeswick:

I would say spend the extra moneys and get 60m there a god send when you need them, and you can chop 5m off each end when they are looking a little worse for wear.

I was at high tor and had to ab for gear. thinking of just abing to the floor after; ropes were too short (50m) would of made it if they were 60s.

Buying a set of 60m as my one are getting very fluffy and one has a big nick 4m in one end.

50m is fine for most stuff, rarely if ever use 60's especially in winter or the alps.

In reply to mikekeswick: Thanks for the recommendations, i'll be in the Lakes tomorrow and will try to search them out for a looksee!
Doh on the twins bit yes I meant half ropes...hangovers eh
I've always used 50m half ropes and pretty much always run pitches together if possible. I have only ever ran out of rope once when using a 50m single, it was a route on weeping wall in Glen Coe. I think as 50m ropes are more or less 'standard' here in the UK every thing is set up for them (abseil points, pitch lengths etc). The points about abroad and winter climbing are totally valid, in fact i'm also thinking of getting a new single for sport climbing as i'm going to Ceuse for the first time this autumn I'll probs go for a 70m

In reply to mikekeswick:

Good plan for Ceuse dude.