UKC

I mostly climb and boulder at walls around London (mostly the castle, mile end and the biscuit factory) and I've noticed that while I can either flash or very quickly redpoint V4s I seriously struggle with V5s. The couple (literally two) I have managed to finish were on slabs and I think they were pretty soft for the grade. What am I missing? What do I need to train in order to break the barrier? Any help would be much appreciated!

Cheers,

Dan

In reply to Daniel James:

The first step is working out why you can't do them:

Can you do all the moves in isolation? If you can, you need to get fitter to string them together or dtronger so each move is less tiring, or a bit of both.

If you can't do the individual moves, why not? Strength, technique, missing the sequence?

In reply to Daniel James:

It seems odd to have such a sudden cliff. How long have you spent working each V5 before you conclude that they are beyond you?

If you really want to get some V5s, you might have to put some concentrated work in. Something that is particularly satisfying is getting on a problem that you at first can't do all the moves, or even hold all the positions, and work it piece by piece over time. It is an amazing feeling when you suddenly unlock the puzzle and can actually climb something that you couldn't even start a few weeks before. Once you have done that, you realise that it is often sequences, body position and timing that is preventing you from climbing the problem, rather than pure strength or endurance. This also transfers back to your onsight or quick redpoint skills.

In reply to Daniel James:

Easy. If you can flash or quickly do Castle V4s consistently, then all you need to do to break into V5 is go climb somewhere popular with established real grades. Like the Peak, or N Wales. You'd climb V5, or better there.

In reply to Daniel James: If you can flash or quickly do V4's but can't seem to climb V5's then maybe you just don't realise how hard you can try.

In reply to Daniel James:

I'd say mix things up a bit. Try different forms of training like dead hangs, core work, cardio work, weights, flexibility etc. Try climbing on different rock types or at the very least different walls if access to rock is difficult.

In reply to Daniel James:
I'm surprised that you manage to find any problems at the Castle that are specifically V4 or V5 tbh - I thought they were mostly just "plaid circuit - V3-V11" these days.

In reply to catt: I really Like catt's idea! I think some sort of training is definitely required as the V$ doesn't just apply to the castle but other walls as well. Heading for a session tomorrow so will probably pick out a V5 i like the look of, work the sections and see how this pans out. If not I might have to work out a training plan. Would anyone care to suggest specific exercises that would be good for this level? Specifically for power endurance because I have a feeling that's where I'm lacking.

Ta

In reply to Daniel James: sounds like you are lacking strength. Try more difficult things and doing more stuff with smaller holds and steeper angles. Basically try harder (or lose weight if you are heavy).

In reply to Daniel James:

Maybe the V5s you did on slabs were just as hard to your average climber as a V5 overhang? It's ok to be better at slabs, means you have technique rather than muscles

Anyway if you want to get stronger, better at overhangs climbing more often is key, or train if that is your thing (I don't and get up V5s, just climb twice a week).

Nobody has mentioned that pure willpower makes a massive difference to a quick indoor boulder problem.

In reply to trouserburp:

I did but maybe you didn't interpret it that way.

In reply to Daniel James:

I can show you how to break into V12.

In reply to jonny2vests: that would be nice, then i could become sponsored and not have to have a day job!

In reply to Daniel James:
I tend to indoor boulder and have a smiliar plateau. I've been up v5 twice I think now, I quickly downgraded one of them in my head but I find it often depends on the style of whatever it is.
A v5 on a slab would be nearly impossible to me but on an overhang its usually plausible.
I tend to find that I just havent got the stamina or good enough feet. Much of it is that I can only climb once a week so dont physically have enough time where I am still strong to try and push my grade. I often have a number of goes at something beyond me then fall back to v4's which I can do a bit weaker.
More time climbing probably equals more attempts, equals more training done thus more stamina and more time to solve the problems and thus your grade goes up.

In reply to parberoo:

From what you have written, I am absolutely certain that you can climb V5 - you just aren't focusing. If you can do V4 when you are tired, it should be possible to do a V5 project over a few sessions. You need to target sections or even individual moves in each session while you are fresh enough.

In reply to Daniel James: I think that expecting any sort of sponsorship, never mind enough to give up your day job for climbing v12 is wildly optimistic :-P . With regards to improving, pick 4 or 5 problems in a variety of stlyes and angles, and try to see if there is any common factor between them that seems to be letting you down. Also assess if there is any 1 angle or style that is a struggle and really persevere at improving those aspects by trying problems that target them. Try making a table and mark yourself out of 10 in terms of finger strength, footwork, climbing pace, flexibility, arm/shoulder strength, route reading and body tension. Then ask a friend to fill in what they think of your climbing in the same categories. This can often highlight some surprising weaknessess! Focus on movement and body position, the strength will come with time without the need for any supplementary training at your stage. The best advice i can give you though is to climb with people better than yourself and learn by their example. Good luck.

In reply to Daniel James:

Just wanted to let you know I'm in almost exactly the same boat mate.
I've climbed 3 castle V5's. I flash maybe 90% of V4's. (The 10% is probably on the feature wall.)

The castle is definitely hard a lot of the time... not to mention full of tiny holds.
In the Biscuit I can normally do just about all of the V3-5 circuit pretty easily.

I think the limiting factor for me is finger strength and skin.
It seems obvious enough to me- if I can't hold the holds, I can't do the problem. Nothing to do with 'trying harder'.

I don't agree with a lot of people here in that often I find individual moves on (Castle) V5's absolutely impossible.

In reply to AymanC: It does seem that castle grading is a bit stiff (or everyone else is being soft) went down to mile end today and red pointed a couple of V5s in a few goes on their new steep wall but they are nowhere near as hard as some of the new V5s in the mezz at the castle. Does boost confidence a little though. Will probably head down to biscuit over the weekend to see if this trend continues.

In reply to Daniel James: Climb with people at the same level, the extra psyche will push the grade

In reply to jonny2vests:

Your humour is wasted here... made me laugh though.

In reply to Offwidth: Didn't notice til you pointed it out.

In reply to _MJC_: yeh i've only just got that as all, Sense of humour fail :P

In reply to Offwidth:

Blimey, I'm, glad someone's awake

In reply to Daniel James:

I was in exactly the same situation earlier this year, plateau'd at v4 with a couple of v5s. I normally climb at the reach and the biscuit factory / arch. I did the following:

Booked a 1-2-1 session with a Gaz Parry to get some tips - gave me an idea of weaknesses and how to move forwards.

Focused on beastmaker sessions on days I can't climb (I only usually get to the wall once or twice a week).

Spend more time reading problems and mentally doing the moved before wasting energy on the wall.

Get a project mentality, do all the individual moves on a hard problem, then work on doing first half/second half, then put it all together.

6 months later, I'm now consistently doing v5 and have done a few v6 problems.