UKC

Is Dorsal Arete any good?

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 Euge 05 Mar 2013
last weekend I was descending Broad Gully and kept looking up at Dorsal Arete and thought what a load of pants... seems very easy to escape into said gully...

So what is the collective opinion!

Pucker or Pants???

E
 Mike-W-99 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Euge:
I thought it was a great little route. Escapable as you noticed but wheres the fun in that!
 Only a hill 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Euge:
I have always enjoyed it, but then again I've always got there early and avoided the crowds.

It isn't Tower Ridge, but it's one of the most popular arête climbs in Glencoe for good reasons: short, difficult enough to challenge beginners yet not so difficult it terrifies them, and with a thrilling bit at the end.
 Caralynh 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Euge:

I liked it. First half is a snowy/icy scramble to the ridgy bit, second half more interesting. Fun route.
 nniff 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Caralynh:

The Chimney Start is an interesting variation at 4, IV
Tim Chappell 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Euge:


Neither pucker nor pants. Just petite. It's a baby route. That's why it gets the crowds.

But for sure, there are some routes I'd do again and again if I had the chance, like Observatory Ridge, The Guillotine, Fingers Ridge, and Tower Ridge... and Dorsal Arete is not one of them. Once is fine.

 Milesy 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Euge:
> So what is the collective opinion!
>
> Pucker or Pants???

It is better than a wasted tank of petrol if conditions on the other routes a bit crap or dodgy. When you descended Broad Gully you should have broke onto the ridge and done the end of it. I have a friend who enjoyed the fins more than Twisting Gully which he had just seconded.

 Offwidth 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Euge: The true ridge finish was very good for about 10m and was solid Tech 3 on the steep bit (the rock isn't perfect so it might change.. like Tower Gap). The best way to do it is a descent from Broad Gully following another route. Most traverse the line under the ridge and claim a very soft II tick and that line is pretty forgetable.
OP Euge 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Milesy:
> (In reply to Euge)
> [...]
>
> When you descended Broad Gully you should have broke onto the ridge and done the end of it. I have a friend who enjoyed the fins more than Twisting Gully which he had just seconded.

I did think about this but had just ranted about how pants it looked and how I'd rather have spikes in my eyes etc etc... That my mate just laughed...

E

 alasdair19 05 Mar 2013
In reply to Euge: not particularly. But its easy, in condition regularly and safeish in most snow conditions. At the grade sron a lairg nearby is better, central butres in lochnagar is amazing though I would say that since it was My first route.
 Cornish boy 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Euge: We did it last month, in fantastic conditions, and all of us thought it was great. Quite a short route, but had a bit of everything. Stunning views and awesome exposure on the fin section. I'd definitely recommend it!
 Sean Bell 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Euge: Its an eliminate, but the sit start is worth 2 stars.
 Michael Gordon 10 Mar 2013
In reply to Euge: Pants.
 Michael Gordon 10 Mar 2013
In reply to nniff:

Chimney Variation is indeed an interesting wee start! I thought the guide correct at IV,5.
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