In reply to GridNorth: I think you're rather overstating the case there. Yes, some of the really easy honeypot routes in avon are polished, but the runouts aren't THAT bad as the climbing is pretty moderate. And in Wye there's stacks to go at with some pretty decent routes below VS. For example Zelda, not polished, decent gear, hs. lefthand route and righthand route, both excellent and HS. Moth and Papillion, the split, Central rib, Joes route, all at Wintours, then Unknown Buttress (although thats full VS) Morpheus, Sleepwalk and night mare, Clarion (bit of a runout on the first easy section, but well protected at the crux, Central rib (again run out in places but gear where you need it) and Giants cave buttress... they're all good routes. Sure you can go to North Wales, but the weather can be poor and both venues dry fast. And if it rains here, chances are its not in Cornwall or on the south coast. In North Wales, its scrambling or tremadog or Gogarth, with the latter hardly qualifying as easy.
