UKC

Lightweight Belay Jacket

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 Rank_Bajin 21 Mar 2013
Hi Folks

Looking at getting a lightweight belay jacket around 400g. Decent hood a must but other than that not really fussed.

I've almost discounted the Patagonia Nanopuff Hoody as the fit in the body seems quite baggy although it would be worn over a shell. Looked at the Haglofs Barrier Pro Hoody on-line but can't seem to find it in a large or medium.

Any suggestions.

Cheers.
In reply to Rank_Bajin: I bought a Rab Generator Alpine this season and its been spot on for me.
 James_86 21 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Marmot Stretch Man Jacket - its waterproof, breathable, very lightweight and packs up small. Plenty of stretch for belaying, it is a bit pricey though...

 More-On 21 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin: Montane Prism? Really like mine for light weight belay use all year round. If you need thicker then the Flux or the Rab generator look ideal.
 edinburgh_man 21 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin:

The hood on a Patagonia Nano Puff will not go over a helmet, plus the arms and cuffs are quite slim so it would not be easy to put on and take off over other layers.

What about an Arc'teryx Atom SV (475g) - amazing bit of kit. Great cut as usual from Arc'teryx (if it suits / fits you).

If you prefer the Patagonia style of fit - what about the Micro Puff (510g).
 TobyA 21 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin: I've had over the years TNF redpoint optimus, Haglöfs Barrier pro and RAB Photon - probably all a bit heavier than you're asking for, mid weight I guess. But FWIW, the Photon is the best, the hood is much superior to the other two. It's what I use once it's not cold enough to need my DAS, but I use it a lot just generally as well in winter so its value for money.
In reply to Rank_Bajin:

I'd suggest the Berghaus Ignite Hoody, but it seems they've 'improved' it from my 2010 model...
 lithos 21 Mar 2013
In reply to captain paranoia:

yeah +1 from me on that
OP Rank_Bajin 22 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Thanks for the replies chaps.

The Berghaus Ignite Hoody (520g)looks good but probably a wee bit heavier than I want. I have an Outdoor Research Chaos (730g) for colder belays so I'm looking for something a fair bit lighter for milder conditions. The Arcteryx LT Hoody at 375G looks good. I'm struggling to find either jacket at a decent price in anything other than an XL.
 Nathan Adam 22 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin: Montane Prism ?

Although they don't have two way zips any more. Hood makes it over my BD Tracer but its not fully helmet compatible. A decent jacket though and has done me fine this winter.
 JayPee630 23 Mar 2013
In reply to Nath93:

I have a Patagonia Nano Puff gilet and an Arcteryx SV hoody and wearing one or sometimes both do me. FInd 2 lighter tops more flexible than one.
Delco 23 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin: Have a look at the Mammut Rime pro jacket a wee bit mores waight again at 540g but a grate all rounder for me.
 Nathan Adam 23 Mar 2013
In reply to JayPee630: Yeah that's fair enough, I'll only wear the Prism at belays though and tend not to wear insulated pieces while moving as i'm a sweaty bugger at the best of times. If its super cold i'll just wear a micro fleece underneath my windshirt/softshell combo and then throw the insulated piece on whenever i stop.

I don't know the price of the SV and Nano together but i'm sure they'll top out at about a ton more than the Prism too.
OP Rank_Bajin 23 Mar 2013
In reply to TobyA:

I take it the Rab Xenon (330g) has replaced the Photon? Anyone have experience of the Xenon?
 Jeff Ingman 23 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin: I suggest you look at the Rab xenon because it's the lightest (and under 400 grams) and uses very modern materials. The arcteryx Atom light is a brilliant jacket for actually climbing in but I wouldn't use mine as a belay jacket. The bottom of the zip is not reversible - so I find it awkward with a belay device. The SV hoody has the same problem but I've though about getting one and sewing a new zip into it. Arcteryx should think about this........GD
 JayPee630 23 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Think it's much lighter weigh fill than the Photon.
mhart 23 Mar 2013
whats the fit like on the Rime Pr?, The blerb on the mammut website says its a wide cut. Ta
In reply to Rank_Bajin:

Crazy Guy,

When I saw your post, I had thought about the Rab Xenon. And then I thought, he's got hunners of jaikets n stuff, disnae need any mair!

I'ts either cold enought for your OR jaiket or it isnay!! Have you not got a gillet, there's a good, lighter weight compromise or you could use neither and 'man up'!!!!!

Stuart

 TobyA 23 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin: Sarah reviewed it http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3251 I've not even tried one one though. Not sure about if the hood would go over a helmet? The hood on the Photon is very good - wired brim and all. On the the Xenon it looks like an under helmet type.
OP Rank_Bajin 23 Mar 2013
In reply to Stuart the postie:

Had hunners until I sold them. Trying to refine my system. Gillet not warm enough so jaiket required!
Toby what weight is your Photon?
 TobyA 24 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin: I deeply embarrassed to admit that once I weighed all my insulated jackets and wrote the results down on spread sheet. But, I can tell you accurately - 520 grams. I think they've added insulation since then to make it warmer but heavier
OP Rank_Bajin 24 Mar 2013
In reply to TobyA:

Toby that's nothing to be embarrassed about. Ever since I read Mark Twights, Extreme Alpinism, I live by the 'Light is Right' mantra and weigh most of my kit. It doesn't make me climb any better but gives my mates a laugh.
 sebastien 24 Mar 2013
In reply to Rank_Bajin: my gf came home one day with a uniqlo down jacket.The next day it was in my bag. Totally does the job and cheap(ish):

http://www.uniqlo.com/uk/store/list/basic/men/outerwear/ultralightdown
 TobyA 24 Mar 2013
In reply to sebastien: I bought one of them at Xmas, was wearing for belay jacket yesterday when out ice climbing. Ridiculously light but not actually super warm. I'm thinking of buying a hood one too, one size up and using them together for an ultralight winter jacket.
In reply to TobyA:

That's perfectly normal behaviour. I hope your spreadsheet also records materials, price, colour, supplier, rrp, etc...
 TobyA 24 Mar 2013
In reply to captain paranoia: Just weight I'm afraid. It was actually starting to do some bike packing that had me weighing stuff, stoves and pots was the first thing - is my pocket rocket and little pan more or less than my jetboil? etc. But soon, it was how warm can I be for the least weight and weighing the jackets!
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