In reply to many points:
In my view:
It's not winter climbing, it's dry tooling in winter. This should be avoided as the challenge of winter routes that are snowed up rock routes is that the rock is snowed up. This has everything to do with winter climbing ethics and nothing to do with protecting the rock - winter climbing damages rock. (For more thoughts on this see below.)
The route does readily snow up as the photo previously linked to in this thread shows. The climber in the photo is me on the day we did the direct finish, I repeated the route eleven months later, in whiter conditions, and finished by the original finish. That was two very snowy ascents in two different seasons in the same year.
In relation to the photo in the guide, the following is a, (long!) extract from an e-mail I sent to Steve Reed 18 months ago, after the Lakes Winter debate:
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I’m aware that what is ‘in nick’ is opening a whole new can of worms, and actually think that the conditions section from page 17 onwards in the existing winter guide is very good. However I also feel that this needs to be a message that is consistently presented through the guide. As a result I would say that a small number of the photos contained in the guide do not back up this description of conditions, particularly that of Two Grooves. I know that one photo does not tell the whole story of a routes condition; I am not doubting the validity of their ascent as I was not there and don’t know what the rest of the route looked like. However I would question the use of that, or similar images, in a guide book that also states ‘the presence of snow is a must for winter climbing’ as less experienced climbers may well feel that practically bare rocky routes are fair game.
What results can be this:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=133570
When I would argue that what is more desirable is this:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=133638
Now this may not actually be an issue on Two Grooves itself, but imagine these two images were of Engineer Slab, or Pisgah Buttress, or Bowfell Buttress and I think most would have an issue with the condition of the first photo.
As I’ve said I think encouraging / reinforcing the ascent of these routes only in good winter condition would be a positive step, I think the FRCC guide book is key in this as it will be many people’s first / only point of reference so needs to give a consistent message. I think image choice is key in this consistency.
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In Steve's reply he indicated the inclusion of the Two Grooves shot was questioned by the guide book team at the time, effectively for the reasons I've given, but they didn't want to delay publication any longer so went with it. This is completely understandable given the situation, and is something that has been remedied in the current edition.
In regard to conditions and friends - pick you conditions carefully and your friends more so!