UKC

Climbing accident blackspots

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 Owen W-G 04 Apr 2013
Are there certain routes that see more than their fair share of accidents?

One that springs to mind is The Arrow, which has a notoriously awkward to protect start, and has seen a fair few helicopter call outs

If there are certain routes, or sections of route, that see a lot of accidents, should they be flagged in guidebooks or is that excess beta?
 Skip 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

Anvil Chorus Bosigran pitch 3 and Autumn Flakes Bosigran both have warnings in CC guide book about the potential for accidents. In the later, SERIOUS ACCIDENTS,due to route finding confusion.
 neilh 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

Paint a black spot at the start of the route........
 Liam Brown 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

In the case of the arrow I would say the big f*ck off cliff they've come down should be warning enough that this is a location in which to be relatively cautious.

However, it is also know to be soft at the grade and classic, and a lot of people try to push their grades at Pembroke I think.

 Tom Last 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

Central Groove - Dewerstone.
 Skip 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Southern Man:
> (In reply to Owen W-G)
>
> Central Groove - Dewerstone.

Interesting! Is Central Groove known for accidents?

Makes me feel less bad about my lead fall on that route.
 Tom Last 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Skip:

Sure is Mike, quite a few serious (fatal?) accidents there I believe.

Don't feel bad, it's quite tough
In reply to Owen W-G: The Russian @ Symonds Yat.

Multiple injuries and sadly, 3? fatalities including one in 2005 http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=19692
 james.slater 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G: Yep, was gonna say the Russian at Symonds Yat as well. 3 fatalities that ive heard of, and lots of accidents!
 Tom Last 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

Brown's Eliminate?
 joshen 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G: i'd be interested to know if places like windgather that are regarded as 'beginner crags' due to so many easy routes and so few hard ones, see more than their fair share of accidents. the one time i went to windgather i saw a very nasty accident due to what i can only describe as the leader being a complete numpty.
 Skip 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Southern Man:
> (In reply to Owen W-G)
>
> Brown's Eliminate?

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=207257
 The Ivanator 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G: Subluminal at Swanage seems to get more than its fair share, bad landings and quite a few tricky to protect routes. Not aware if there is a specific route there that is particularly to blame, but routes like Dolphin, Face Central, Face Away and Battleship Bow are all bold affairs at amenable looking grades.
OP Owen W-G 04 Apr 2013
In reply to The Ivanator:

Nearly had a nasty accident at subluminal myself in September.
Was belaying my mate on Stroof. Had anchored myself to base of cliff with a thread. When he had topped out I couldn't free the thread, yanked and yanked, and eventually it gave, whipping out suddenly with a stiff pull, nearly toppling me into sea.
Touch wood, would hate to have an accident doing something stupid and unneccesary.
 GrahamD 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

FB Direct, but then it always will attract the 'go for it' kind of character.
J1234 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
>.
> Touch wood, would hate to have an accident doing something stupid and unnecessary.

So why climb?
 David Barlow 04 Apr 2013
The Arrow at Pembroke? Steep start which is a little tricky to protect well.
In reply to David Barlow:
Do people who hurt themselves on the arrow miss the good thread on the first crux? It is not obvious and a bit awkward to place,but once you've placed it you shouldn't be able to hurt yourself.
 Ciderslider 04 Apr 2013
In reply to The Ivanator: Certainly +1 for face central there's no gear at all on it (glad I was only seconding.
Dolphin isn't so bad gear is a bit sparse - just don't look down (as I did when I led it).
I think the problem with Sub is that all of the harder routes pack it in right from the ground.
 Ciderslider 04 Apr 2013
In reply to neilh: or a skull and crossbones
 Mehmet Karatay 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

A friend of mine swears that Lorraine is much harder than VS and consequently lots of people deck on it. http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=984

Mehmet
 TM_Horton 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G: amphitheatre buttress in north wales, i have heard on the grapevine that its responsible for the most call outs of any route. guess it could be easy to get caught out on a 12 pitch V diff
 The Pylon King 04 Apr 2013
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to Owen W-G)
>
> FB Direct, but then it always will attract the 'go for it' kind of character.

Fish Bowl Direct? - wheres that?
 Ciderslider 04 Apr 2013
In reply to GrahamD: When I even think about leading that I have an accident blackspot in my pants.
 Ciderslider 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Ciderslider: Fish bowl direct that is.
 Rachel Slater 04 Apr 2013
In reply to Owen W-G:

There are quite a few decks of Archangel if you check the logbook. None seem *too* serious though.
 alasdair19 04 Apr 2013
In reply to r fizzle: average maiming of archangel seems to be 3 _6 months in plaster. Allmost all the classic hvs and e 1 s at stanage.
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