/ Costa Blanca for beginners

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Donnie on 08 Apr 2013 - 188-223-4-178.zone14.bethere.co.uk

Me and my girlfriend are off to the Costa Blanca in June, and we're looking for a bit of advice on sports crags for beginners.

We both climb indoors - me onsight lead 6A, redpoint 6c, boulder V2 (onsight)/V4 (occasionally). Her top rope 6b boulder V1/V2. I've done a bit of climbing outside (I'm much worse - 5+) and she's just getting indoor leading lessons now.

Seen as we're just starting outdoors we'd prefer somewhere quiet so we're free to look stupid without embarrassment, and somewhere scenic would be nice too..

So, to summarise - a quiet crag with plenty 4s, 5s and low sixes.

Also, we're staying about half an hour in land from Calpe, so the closer to there the better.

Cheers, Donnie
cas smerdon - on 08 Apr 2013
Andy Fielding - on 08 Apr 2013
In reply to Donnie:
Try Echo 1.5 recently (last couple of years) bolted about 12 routes from easy 4 to 6a. Good quality rock. easy angle and a good days outing with fantastic views.There is a free mini guide on the Orange House web site. See this link.

Sam Warby - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to Donnie: have a look at my logbook. I got back last week and climb similar to yourself. We only managed 3 days climbing because of illness but there is plenty to keep you busy at sierre de toix, echo 1.5 and alcalali
mutt - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to Donnie:

Forada is the best crag imo. You can have a great day in the sun climbing 4-6' then climb through the cave and have a look at some of the best hard routes in the whole Costa ot inspire you for next time. Plus its high, you'll be hot in June so height will help.
Mark Bull - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to mutt:

Forada is very nice, though it seems you have to walk in from the hotel now: http://www.rockfax.com/news/2013/01/29/forada-approach/
Last time I was there it was plagued with wasps

fizzpup - on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to Donnie: sector playground next to sector crazy crazy at murla has the most memorable 4+ sport route ive ever done, it was great fun and a bit of a walk in so quiet crag and not polished in the slgihtest. also suprisingly not loose
colinmcmanus on 09 Apr 2013
In reply to Donnie: Would vouch for Echo 1.5, have a look at my log book, just got back from week in Costa Blanca climbing similar grades. Really worth buying Rockfax guide, it's excellent.
Donnie on 10 Apr 2013 -
In reply to everyone: thanks all! One last question - we've a sixty meter rope... Is it worth getting a longer one?
Sam Warby - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to Donnie: we had no problem with just a 60m rope. Some of the routes did require the full length of it though
Sam Mayfield - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to Donnie:

Donnie, The Orange House is closed for some of June but I still have guides around, if you want a day to introduce you to the rock etc give us a shout.


paul__in_sheffield - on 10 Apr 2013
In reply to Donnie: most important for June is to use factor 50 sunblock and climb either on north facing crags, or get your timing right to climb in the shade. The new Rockfax guide has all this info.
Montessa has north facing 5s, and the Font d'Axia has lots of routes in the grades you describe but you'll have to get there early before the sun comes round. Marin is similar.

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