UKC

Hi,
Sorry if this has been discussed before but I couldn't find it.
I've recently taken my first tentative steps onto real rock and absolutely love it, I'm being encouraged to go down the route of trad climbing due to the increased availability of crags however for now due to cost and my limite outdoor experiance I want to stick to sport or top roping.

Can you name some decent crags that are either bolted with quality bolts or have good availability for a top rope anchor to be set up I.e. big trees near the cliff edge.

I have looked pretty much everywhere i can but find very little information on crags in regards to are they bolted or is a top rope possible.

Thanks in advance

In reply to Lythnix: Causey Arch is good for top roping as there are plenty of trees the top of the crag. It is located north of Durham near Stanley. Can get very wet and dusty but a good few routes.

In reply to luke_rob123:
Thanks I will give Causey a look sometime, I am currently either climbing at Houghton or indoors.
Ideally I'm looking for info in the Yorkshire area as I will be staying with my girlfriend in Leeds for a week and would like to surprise her by taking her out onto proper rock (she has only climbed indoors so far) but with the limited gear I have (60m rope, a variety of slings, 1o quickdraws, 6 karabinas, two harnesses, and climbing shoes + chalk etc)
I have been meaning to get some static rope for extending anchors.

The ideal place would either have tree's or a good anchor point(that does not require trad gear) at the top or be a single pitch sport climb.

In reply to Lythnix:

I think you may enjoy Peak Scar. Similar to Causey but much nicer place to be

http://www.climbonline.co.uk/peak_scar.htm

In reply to Steve Crowe: I wouldnt advise anyone new to outdoor rock to head to peak scar as a suitable novice venue, its really not a novice venue. Steep loose top outs, quite lot of suspect rock, the crag was formed by a landslip and the process isnt over.

In reply to pebbles:
Thanks for the response and your concerns, I think I may wait and go to peak scar with one of my climbing partners who is a climbing instructor as part of his job.

Just curious though is peak scar bolted?

Do you have any other suggestions on places to lead or top rope either near Leads (for me and my girlfriend) or Durham for me an various climbing partners, traveling around an hour isn't that much of an issue if the climbing is good.

In reply to Lythnix:

Near Leeds you could try hetchell crag. It's rounded sandy gritstone, so will be a very different experience to the indoor wall. There are some lovely routes there and (most importantly) some trees to use as belays. A static rope would be useful as some of the trees are far back from the edge, but your 60m rope will be long enough to use one end to tie to the tree, and climb on the other end.

When I started climbing I only had a few slings and a rope, and hetchell is where I went a lot.

In reply to Lythnix: it isnt bolted. A trip with an instructor mate sounds ideal though - jordu is about hvd/severe but has a big route feel. Crags near leeds - some good stuff at brimham, you have to pick your route well to avoid the infamous rounded topouts but I there is plenty of well protected stuff there. Best bet is probably to hook up with someone who knows the crag and can point you away from the sandbags . Try cracked buttress...but not central crack, the top out is notoriously strenuous and insecure, a definate sandbag y hat one. Mi h ht be worth a look at scugdale, its quite short, e as sy to set b up anchors, rocks pretty solid and never that busy. Almscliff low man has some good low grade routes too

In reply to pebbles:

I understand what you mean but that was where I learned to climb!

I was thinking that it is very easy to set up a reliable stance at the top of Peak Scar with all those trees.

Perhaps worth going with someone more experienced first time though.

(There are no bolts, just big trees at the top.)

In reply to Lythnix:


The routes at Almscliff on Highman near Birds Nest Crack (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=106) can be protected at the top with slings or the rope around boulders and if you go on a nice day there is likely to be people around to talk to if you feel a little unsure about your setup.

Also Pedestal Wall (http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=28641) at Caley has trees at the top you could put slings round.

In reply to Lythnix:


Brimham can be pretty good for that sort of thing with a bit of creativity and some old carpet to protect the rope from abrasion. There are loads of routes on the edges (as opposed to the pinnacles) that can be top-roped safely with just rope and slings.

Personally, I think you're getting good advice, the traditional climbing available in the area is far more plentiful and at accessible grades, far superior.

You could post on here asking for cheap 2nd hand kit, you don't need a full shiny set to get going, a handful of mismatched but serviceable nuts and hexes for next to nothing is better than no nuts even when it comes to rigging top-ropes they open up more options. There must be loads of people sitting on that sort of kit that they no longer use. Or splash out, start putting together a modest rack with a new set of nuts for less than the price of a tank of fuel.

A bouldering mat opens up even more options!
jk

In reply to jkarran:
Thanks to everyone for the advice, the problem is with a motorbike for transport a bouldering mat is pretty much out of the equasion and I'm not comftable to try trad yet (but I am going to search for forum for what to get when building up a trad set)
I've been given some solid advice an plenty of options, it sounds to me like with a few more quickdraws and some static rope I have access to more than enough climbing to keep us entertained

Are there any actual crags that are bolted in the Yorkshire area? The only thing I can find information on thats defiantly bolted is Malham Cove and everything there looks incredibly difficult or mutli pitch.

In reply to Lythnix:

There's plenty. Robin proctor scar, giggleswick etc. have you looked at the UKC database?

There are online guides to some easy bolted crags on the Leeds wall website