UKC

Just wondering what the general idea's, feelings, thoughts are with using dynamic rope to set up a top rope system. Ideally I know it's better to use static for the set-up but is there any reason why I shouldn't/can't use a dynamic rope instead?

Cheers,
Connolly8684

In reply to Connolly8684: the main reason for not using dynamic rope is that it stretches more than static. It's not necessarily unsafe to do it so long as the rope is protected from chafing on the rock.

Purely comes down to durability in my mind. Definitely

The stretch won't be much compared to top roping with a dynamic rope...Well, Unless your anchors are 40m back and you only use a single stranded anchor setup.

In reply to needvert:

Yeah.

Old bits of carpet might help.

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

It's also good to protect the rock from the chafing of the rope, essential on the softer stuff (and the busier stuff).

In reply to Jonny2vests: Carpet is ok but dedicated protectors that go around the rope are better. That way if the ropes move the protector goes with it.

In reply to higherclimbingwales:

Sure. Carpet works though, as does a bag or an old jacket.

in reply to Connolly8684:

Only problem I can think of is that you will fall further then if you used a static, assuming your climbing on a dynamic as well the amount you fall can be a surprising distance(admittedly slowly and safely) .

if your anchor is close then you would probably not notice but if your anchor is 20m back with 8% rope stretch you would fall an extra 1.6 meters + the rope stretch of the rope your actually climbing on. as your climbing on a dynamic as well the distance you travel from falling to were you finally rest can be quite substantial making working a difficult move awkward.

In reply to Connolly8684:

If you're doing it try to use a stretched-out single, definitely not a half-rope! You can reduce stretch by doubling it over, but there will still be movement in the rig and the need to protect it from rubbing over edges will be even greater than normal.

In reply to Connolly8684:

It's surprisingly easy to wreck a bit of dynamic rope using it to extend anchors to the top of a cliff for a top rope. Just a bit a of movement over an edge can really wear into the rope in a short period of time. Obviously worse case scenario is that it could snap, but more likely is that you just have to throw away the damaged bit of rope which is a waste.

In reply to Connolly8684: As the others have said use some kind of edge protection. Also forward tensioning the rigging rope may help - prusic close to edge and tensioned against a bit of gear somewhere.

Marc

In reply to Connolly8684:
I got caught out with this when I started climbing. I set up a top rope using climbing rope set up about five metres back from the edge, then had about a metre of rope hanging over the edge too. When my climbing partner fell off, all 14 stone of him, he ended up about five feet from the ground because of rope stretch - and poor belaying! While he was untying, I was seriously considering running away very quickly as he clearly had murder in his eyes and was at least a foot taller than me. As it turned out - a few weeks later he dropped me from about 30ft at a climbing wall and I hit the deck with a crunch. To this day, I believe he did it on purpose. I was a more attentive and conscientious climbing partner after that.

In reply to Connolly8684: I guess you mean top-roping from the bottom of the crag (i.e. what some would call bottom-roping).
If you're belaying from the top then that is no different to bringing a second up on a dynamic rope anyway.
It also lets the climber top-out, which is more satisfying than being lowered back down.
Might not work for your application but IMO is good practice for developing climbing techniques for folks who already know how to belay etc.

Andy