UKC

Lakes multi-pitch on a single rope

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 snapperdan 31 Jul 2013
I realise using two half ropes would be ideal for lots of different reasons, but is it possible to climb routes at places like Gimmer on a single rope safely without too much hassle if you walk down off the crag rather than abseil?

Obviously I'd only climb a pretty direct route.
August West 31 Jul 2013
In reply to snapperdan:

Yes, if that's all you've got go for it.

Take plenty of longer quickdraws and slings and extend everything.
 Jon Stewart 31 Jul 2013
In reply to snapperdan:

As above, you'll be fine. Gimmer is great, enjoy!
 Mark Eddy 31 Jul 2013
In reply to snapperdan: Loads of Lakes trad is fine on a single rope, a few extenders will come in handy though.
For Gimmer though, the abseil descent is far quicker than walking / scrambling back down should you wish to climb multiple routes.
OP snapperdan 31 Jul 2013
In reply to snapperdan: Thanks for the advice I've got plenty of longer quickdraws and slings, so it looks like I'll be fine.
 goose299 31 Jul 2013
In reply to snapperdan:
I climbed in the lakes for the best part of three years on a single. Had no real issues but obviously avoided wandering routes
Bought twins about a month before I left the area. Go figure!
OP snapperdan 31 Jul 2013
In reply to snapperdan: I'm assuming the same can be said for routes in North Wales on crags like Cloggy too?
In reply to snapperdan:

So much depends on the specific route, as well as how much/ where you place gear, that it's hard to generalise.

I've seen people zigzag their way up a short, 'straight' route with careless gear placement. And equally I've seen people protect 'wandering' routes on a single rope with careful extending (and judicious skipping of gear placements).

Pretty much anywhere in the country I'd be happier with two, but if a single was all that was available, it wouldn't put me off. Just choose routes wisely and be prepared to belay a bit more often if necessary.
 GridNorth 31 Jul 2013
In reply to snapperdan: Not forgetting of course that if you have run out more than half a rope length and then get stuck for one reason or another you will have to be imaginative to get out of the situation.
OP snapperdan 31 Jul 2013
In reply to GridNorth: This is one of the things which concerns me a bit!! All adds to the adventure I suppose....
 martinph78 31 Jul 2013
In reply to GridNorth: Running pitches shorter than 25m can help with this and also with rope drag. Despite using long or few runners, I find rope drag on the rock becomes the main problem on easier climbs. 25+m of rope, dragging on a large slab, adds a lot of friction! A good reason for not skipping those belay stances or linking pitches together.

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...